Do you know these 35 tips for alpine trad?

I was climbing South Early Winter Spire/South Arête and wanted to share helpful tips for going up easy terrain in an alpine trad environment.

[henrydabomb]

This might be the most wholesome hownot2 video ever

[Cjwazzy]

Love the format, including lists and the outdoors. 16:26 As an educator, id avoid the leg loop 3rd hand or else explain why you shouldn't generally do that. You might understand and accept the risk in this scenario but a novice viewer might not and the mistake could be lethal for them. It's easy enough to just extend that shoulder sling a bit and do it proper.

[franciscohernandezlucas]

I know, it's dead, but it's got some moss on it.. Thanks for the laughs with my morning coffee, much appreciated!

[elizabethking]

I remember down climbing the knife edge section and all my friends were doing it unprotected. I didn’t feel good about it so I made them set up an anchor for me. I feel validated seeing you all roped up in that section.

[bba]

I knew you were fully committed when I saw the Mythos

[isaacjamesbaker]

Your sense of humor is choice and appreciated!

[TheMegaMrMe]

I think I still want to bring 2 60m ropes. 1) that dynema management looks awful.
2) I feel safer. Alpine environments bring sharp edges with them. In case of a cut, it's better to have 2 ropes

[dennisgelsomini]

That was the best, brought back so many great memories of real climbing , thanks

[johnny-wmuo]

Always look at the length and the number of the rappels.
If all rappels are less than 15m or only some with up to 25m, I would take a 30m single and a light tagline.

If all are less than 30m or only some up to 55m, I bring one 60m half rope and a tagline. When climbing you double it.

I would only take two 60m half ropes if there are many long rappels, which is quite uncommon.

[NPC-flgq]

For #29 that's where an Edelrid aramid sling is worth its weight in gold. You don't have to GaS, you just keep climbing.
I try to carry at least 1-2 slings that are basically anything other than 8mm dyneema, be it nylon, aramid or a sheathed sling.
(I usually use them for extending my rappel so i always use them anyway).

[tim_sch]

What a fuggin good episode. Just before I get into single strand alpine climbing.
Good weather greetings from the Dolomites ❤

[chadrambo]

Before I talk about that microtrax technique, know that you’re literally in my opinion a hero in the climbing community. I like that you challenge ideas. Until there is more evidence of the exact failures of belaying from above with a microtrax, I can’t endorse this as a good idea… thank you still for all you’re doing!

[thomasdalziel]

Nice! Lol I needed this video 24 hours ago just did an alpine trad route and apparently could’ve been way more efficient 😂 Great tips!

[UKnaZo]

really enjoyed this, would love to see more in this style

[kf]

Two traxions in a row would be an interesting break test. I assume the one closest to the load would do the desheathing, then the next would have a sheath that could slide on the core, but would it eventually grab the core again? Or just slide until it got to whatever back up or stopper you have? or would the first traxion desheath and then break the core also?

[rtechnix]

Great vid. A lot of the tips are more geared for people who already have familiarity with the basic systems and want to tweak things up, but I feel like it's also a really great general orientation for people just getting into alpine outings. Just the general flow of things and how the return can be just as or more complicated (esp in terms of rope management). Like how you spend just as much time about the descent as the ascent.

[jamiemcbarron]

Some nice tips in there thanks man . Have a reason now to make my rack even heavier 😂. . On a serious note some food for thought in that video ✍️

[xxxxicabodxxxx]

That was a cool video.. Made my brain move..

[pavlodeshko]

didn't know the double wrap on a pulley trick, cheers!

[Rock_Appreciator]

V0 in my gym, but still an excellent video.