How to Solder and Repair a Leaking Radiator

Today at the Quick Speed Shop I'm going to attempt to solder a leak in my 1930 Ford AA doodlebug radiator. The leak is around the filler neck. This is the first time I have attempted this repair. I'll have to give an update on how it works when I fill the radiator.

Update: The repair held up fine and does not leak. It's not pretty, but for my first time I think it's good.

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#radiator #solder #leak

[riotautorepair]

I know there's alot of hate comments on here but I don't think he deserves it guys. He did an ok job for an amateur, and if it didn't leak, who cares if it's pretty or not? It's all up to personal preference. Thank you for making this video sir, I've got the same problem and I haven't got the money for a new rad

[oldsilkhat]

A tip, absolute clean, bare metal is a must and solder always flows towards the heat, so if you were putting the solder on the outside of the filler neck, you want to hold the torch on the inside of the joint letting it flow in. Good luck, if you need a hand let me know.

[chrismarkle]

Cleanliness is key to any radiator repair. Use a stiff brush after heating to help cleaning the metal. Use lead based solder not plumbing solder. Heat then apply flux the help clean the metal. Heat the area then apply small amount for flux and solder. if the solder runs off without bonding it most likely is not clean enough.

[cratecruncher]

Oof. You likely made the leak worse by flowing more old solder out of the seam than new stuff you were trying to get in. I would heat the neck until it separates from the body of the radiator, clean both surfaces thoroughly with acid flux like Harris Stay-Clean, then I would "tin" both mating surfaces with a thin film of solder, then place the two together and heat them up to allow the solder on both to melt together. That would leave a tight seal that looks fac-tree!

[jdubya]

im so happy his bench looks like mine. a total mess. must be a hell of a
mechanic

[justinstanley]

Key to soldering radiators or anything is having the spot your soldering super clean. And tinning before you solder something.

[TheNverhom]

Like the old saying goes, you gotta do what ya gotta do and use what ya gotta use, i do this for a living and would say heat your base metal instead of the filler neck as it is thinner than the radiator tank. Overheating the neck will cause the flux not to activate properly and the solder not to flow properly. Overall no leaks means a good repair!

[bloodybonescomic]

Thanks. I hadn't done much of this but I got my John Deere radiator inlet crack fixed today. No more leak

[jerryfarmer]

I was taught a long time ago to let the metal suck the solder in not blow it in with the heat. You did good not being a plumber or a pipe fitter. I've done a shit load worse trying to do that.

[ogcrypto]

You have to heat the metal until it's red hot if you have to continue adding Flux that's not a problem it will literally melt into the crack.
You didn't heat up the metal long enough

[jbean]

Thank you. The good thing about you tube, if you do anything, every one will chime in how to do it better. I’m trying to straighten the neck on mine. I ordered a new one but would like to repair the one I have. Thanks for showing it’s possible.

[jacquespoirier]

few things can explain that you have difficulty to touch up the solder bead
1) the wire wheel is good for rough cleaning, use a file and a scotch brite pad to find clean bright metal
2) use liquid flux as STAY CLEAN, it is far superior to paste flux sold to solder copper pipes.
3)on such an old radiator, the solder used is usually lead based so better use lead based filler material, it blend better to base filler
4) use a concentrated heat source, much, much easier to control the solder bead and to avoid desolder surroundings solders, usually, oxy-acetylene or oxy propane with a very fine torch tip does very well in this type of applivation.. A torch as you used is fine to solder copper pipes but the heat source is too blunt and poses the risk of damaging surrounding soldered joints.

[martymcmannis]

Thanks for this
I have to do a rad in my cavalier. I wonder if straight lead would work. I know it melts super easy. I done copper in house many times. So the solder has no lead. Of course, it was always the best. Thanks again. BTW the more you do something, the better you get!

[hansdales]

Take the fillerneck off (make it hot) clean it and put it back and then solder it.

[deepbludude]

Nice, I used to solder lead cable sheaths back in the 80s its an aquired skill, also we had wiping pads and great flux. I gotta do a heater core on my AMC wagon trying to clean it now dont think its gonna go good.

[timnz]

The metal surface may be contaminated with oils, your dremel wire brush may not have been enough. Using a solvent like acetone would probably work, then the solder will melt onto the brass.

[buttonysquare]

I know this is from five years ago, you may be better at soldering now. I suck too. One thing I have learned is the molten solder on the joint will follow the torch heat to make it look nice and lay down better

[brywilder]

First and foremost is clean, clean and clean again. Then apply heat to where you want the solder to GO, not above it unless you want the solder to flow up. After it is heated, apply flux, then heat all around the tube and blow pressurized air to remove the old solder, then yep, clean, clean and clean again. Then apply heat, then flux again heat all around and keep the heat below the top to draw the solder in. Next I suggest you use SILVER SOLDER as it is more tolerant to different metals and stronger than lead. The solder will follow the heat source so pull the solder in with the torch, do not try to push or flood the solder into the groove. Brush on flux as needed to remove slag (dirty old solder) as it rises and finally wipe the joint with a wet cloth. PLEASE WEAR THE PROPER EYE, FACE, and RESPRATORY PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH SOLDER AND FLUX !! One pop of molten flux and solder into your eye and it's all over !!

[Chozenfew]

give it a wipe with some wire wool just after melting to clean away excess solder

[kennethdandurand]

I was just waiting for you to catch your sleeve in that wire brush. If you do, it will get your attention real real fast. Also, it shouldn't take to long for you to realize that the solder will FOLLOW the flame. Cleaning and fluxing is paramount. Even if you have to wirebrush the heck out of it as you get the old solder to melt.