Building the Pro-stereoscopic & flat rotating POV DIY Kit

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As with the other rotating LED kits, this kit came with two IR receivers (LED style unit), one for on the board and one spare. Both items were broken, just as with the other kits. So I grabbed one of my own IR receivers and it worked almost instantly, if I did not solder the unit on the correct side of the board... (oops)

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Love your video. Absolutely keeping it real. I had to show my wife this clip to prove to her that I’m not the only one that drops small components and curses at my work. Great job!

johnscozz
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Thank for posting the video. I was able to build the kit with your help. Like you, I had problem with the IR receiver diode, but at least your video helped me troubleshoot the problem easily. I look forward to your video on how to program the device, but by fiddling around with the remote I've got it so that it displays the correct time.

DavidHoshor
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Thanks for doing a step by step video.

miketaylor
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I don't think I have ever had a banggood IR LED work for me. I never thought to try a new quality IR LED. I will have to try that on this Banggood clock that I have coming in.

Penfold
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I'm assembling the same kit right now and found the IR receiver on mine was also not working. I removed it and reversed it and now it works. I also have the spinning globe kit with the same problem - I will try reversing that IR receiver and see if it works on that kit, too.

TimothySCarlson
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Finished my Canton tower and chromatography LED clock... currently working on the 8x8x8 led cube...

Then I see a video with a flat stereoscopic display, great, yet another order placed and a kit waiting to be completed lol

medic-iwqx
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Follow up - I reversed the original IR receiver in my spinning globe kit and that is now working. So - the chinese IR receivers delivered with the kits are bass-ackwards from standard parts? Also, the one red LED on this kit is supposed to be there - it is the 'border' definition LED, thus the different color. And which is also why they pre-installed it - so that the single red LED would be put in the proper spot.

TimothySCarlson
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Nice video Bas, looking forward to you programing new text and visuals.

georgestewart
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I was looking the documents you linked to, and there's a PDF file titled "Stereoscopic & flat rotating LED debug instruction V1.0.pdf". In there they state that the long leg of the IR LED is postive, but the long leg of the IR receiver is NEGATIVE. So, of course, putting it in like a standard LED will not work.

BTW: THANKS for the video and the link to the documents!

TimothySCarlson
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Thanks for another upload, great to see that you're getting better in making these videos.
I actually can't hear the extra noise from your active cooling and pc, but maybe that has more to do with my ears ;-) Keep up the good work!

sebas
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I just got my kit and you can see the metal leads on the side of the IR Receiver. I am not taking any chances and ordered a couple of 3mm spares.

Penfold
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A little trick that I do to align the LEDs and resistors onto the pads is to add some flux and quickly alternate heating both pads. If you do it right the SMD will "slide" itself into the proper position. It looks a little more professional.

Penfold
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Is it possible to program the led's with arduino IDE to create your own pictures?

snk
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Here is a few Ideas to make you clock a little more Attractive, 1. Drill a 1/8" hole in the end of the Heatsink add a standoff then use one for the four holes in the Black base to screw it on to make it more secure . 2. Instead of use the Nylon screws on the bottom to the Base to secure the Stand off' Add A short section stand off to the Bottom of the pillars This will raise the base up Then glue the 5v Barrel Jack to the bottom then run your VCC and GRD through the holes in the base to attach to barrel jack
I wish I could place screenshots on here to show you mine . I also added a micro switch to the base as well ... Hope this helps, Have fun and be creative

garywatson
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hi, i finished the clock, but when i connect the 5V, no leds lighting. I dont understand, i have verified all polarity, but no light. Hm, maybe is the solder. It's possible??? thank for reply

luc
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Hello Bas, can you help me? I don't get a connection from the software to the board. I scan the COM port, COM 4 is displayed, but then the message "Open Com Port failed! Please check the specified port." Thank you very much
Bernd

berndh.
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Trying to figure out what "thrum" means, anyone know?

flossflink
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Finished the Clock, But for some reason it only works when it wants too I have checked and rechecked it I have No idea why it doesn't wok all the time ...I went back through all the Steps and I rechecked all my solder joints, I'm not sure what I did but the clock works perfectly now .... Fun Build

garywatson
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So you don't have to Program it at the start ? It comes With all that stuff inside the chips when it arrives ???

garywatson
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I see there is a coil in the bottom, this is for voltaje? And if it is... What about gnd?

dracofloww