Guide to PEI 3D printer beds: Why and when to use smooth vs textured

By request: What are the advantages and disadvantages of a PEI/PEX 3D printer bed and when is it best to use smooth or textured? This video guide is a summary of my experiences using PEI over the years. I explain why it is my favourite bed material and how I use it for various filaments.

0:00 Introduction

0:39 What is PEI and how is it used with 3D printing?

2:07 Strengths and weaknesses of PEI beds

5:43 Brands I’ve used: variations exist!

6:48 PLA

8:04 TPU

8:34 PETG

10:02 ABS/ASA

10:52 Nylon

11:34 PEEK

12:39 Conclusion

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[WhamBamSystems]

Thanks for the great information. For clarity we have smooth PEX, smooth PEI, and powder painted PEI.

[russtuff]

I've been reading about these beds all week, and here you are with all of the answers :)

[bluegizmo]

Spring steel PEI is the best bed material I've used, and I've used quite a few!

[TheRealBanana]

Couple things I've learned personally about PEI: FLEX will stick so well that if you don't put some release agent (like glue stick) it can pull entire chunks of PEI off your bed. Also any scratches, divots, or other damage will be transferred to your printed part too. Accidentally poked almost through the PEI when working on the printer and now all my prints have this weird circular mark. Its unique enough that I'd be willing to bet you could positively identify what printer printed which part, similar to matching rifling marks on fired bullets.

[Myrblyl]

Great information. :)
I'll add a few notes :

- PETG tends to stick too well to bare PEI (or even glass). A "release" agent is helpful. A light coat of glue stick, Dimafix, Magigoo, EasyFix, hairspray, is enough (even recommended). Same applies to flexibles.
- For nylons, Garolite is the go-to build surface.
- FormFutura's ApolloX/TitanX are very special amongst ASA/ABS : they do stick too well to build surfaces. I had a chat with FF about that, and their advice is to apply a generous layer of whatever you use as a release agent.
- With flexibles being a notable exception, it's not recommended to remove a part from the build plate when it's not fully cooled down. Parts may warp on corners (I had the issue a few times) if removed too early !

[darktherapy]

PEI beds are great for batch printing. I use the “Continuous Print” plug-in for octoprint to print parts, then it cools down and pushes the part off the bed ready to print the next part.

[chrisbaker]

I have found using windex on the PEI before printing PETG, it helps the part release easier and do less safe to the bed.
It cleans off easily enough with a thorough wipe down with isopropyl

[avejst]

Pei and Acetone is a bad combo! I've tried it, it destroys the Pei
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)

[RomZStar]

I used borosilicate glass bed which came with my CR-10, glass/mirror bed, painters tape on mirror, little print area that came with Overture filament and PEI textured and smooth. The PEI is really a game changer and definitely in love with it. I don't use anything else since. Nice video, I've learned so much from you since last year and I'm grateful for that! Keep pushing!!

[ObservantSeedsower]

I've been 3d printing for 2 years now and only discovered PEI build plates this past Christmas. I did a review of it on my channel. You do a great job of covering the more in depth considerations about this type of build surface. Just wanted to tip my hat to you for all the great teaching you have done here. Much respect.

[Jules_]

I used clear borosilicate glass for years on all 5 of my printers and have been slowly switching them all over to the whambam system and love it. I clean and steel wool it before every use and have zero bed adhesion issues. The ease of release from the bed after printing is a game changer.

[hobbyistnotes]

PEI definitely is my favorite surface for printing ABS, PLA, PETG it's not only sticking well but also has an amazing 1st layer texture. I had so many struggles with any other surfaces that on 1st 2 minutes of using PEI I fall in love with it: NO MORE adhesion problem - the most annoying problem in 3d printing ever... Such a nerve and time saver....

[yitspaerl]

Thanks a lot again. You asked about other bed surfaces. Well I like poly-carbonate a lot when bed adhesion is important which is the case with ABS. For around 3 euro/pc you can have 235*235 mm cut pieces 3mm thick. It forms a very good addition to the sheets you described for some special purposes.

[TylerMillhouse]

This stuff is a lifesaver. I think mine was 30 bucks US, and I have had so much less trouble with under/over adhesion compared to the original ender 3 bed material. As for warped beds, get yourself a Cr touch! The beautiful first layers you get with this combo are worth it!

[macdox]

I'm a big fan of Wham Bam's PEX sheets. I have switched all my machines to it and use it for PLA and PETG and have never had an issue with sticking or release. I've been so happy with PETG, not sure I'll ever get around to testing ABS on it, but anticipate similar results.

[sebd]

I’ve been having good results for nylon with Esun ePA-CF. The shopped carbon fiber make the filament more rigid and stable so it doesn’t warp as much, printing on a MK3 without enclosure on textured PEI with a thin coat of PVA glue.

[DWITD]

Just wrecked one side of my Prusa Texture sheet printing ASA. I think the nozzle was too close on the first layer. Funny thing though... it was the second of two of the same print. The first one came off beautifully clean with no damage to the sheet. I'm mystified! Thanks for the video Michael... very informative!

[MrScalu]

I found using Gluestick on the smooth PEI for PETG works pretty well. First it helps for adhesion (even though not needed) but when the print is finished, it works as a release agent. No damage on your bed and fairly easy to remove the print. One downside is, that you will have residue on your plate as well on your print. Since its gluestick it should come off with water.

[patrickrenschler]

I picked up a fula-flex from fulament for my cr10s and I've been really satisfied with the product. Customer support is also excellent, I ordered a 2nd one for my ender3.

[DaveDarin]

I've converted all my printers to PEI beds. I first got confidence with my Lulzbot TAZ 5 which came with a PEI bed. It works so well that I adapted my Snapmaker 2.0 A350, Sindoh, and one unusual printer I have made by Dobot. The trick with the Snapmaker, which has a huge bed, was to find one that fit, or came close. I am loosing about 1/2 inch of print bed but the Tronxy bed came close so I am using it. It has the rough material. BUT, got to say that the bottom surface of the prints are fairly attractive as the rough material is uniform enough that it creates an attractive bottom layer.I've never had luck with glass beds. By the way, if I need a little extra bond, I've tried the painters tape, hair spray, glue stick. My best results are using Elmers School Glue. Additionally it peels off the bed easily or warm water and the elders glue melts away. Easy clean up. My Lulzbot has a smooth PEI so the clean up by peeling the elders glue off works every time. The textured PEI beds don't peel off well so they require the warm water bath. I don't put down huge amounts of glue so I often put additional thin layers of elders glue on top of glue I previously applied. I will also move prints to other areas of the bed so I don't over glue. But I have fantastic luck with PEI, my absolute preferred bed.