DIFFERENT types of THREAD? What do I need? What should I use?

In this video I talk about different types of thread, the various choices and why you might choose one over another for your garments.

When I first found out that, just like fabric, thread is also available in different fibres - cotton, polyester, silk etc, my mind was blown and I wondered what I should use and if I NEEDED to match the thread type to the fabric!

In the time since I've been asked this a lot and the short answer is that it is your personal choice. There are different factors that can help you decide though.

When I started out I used whatever was on the shelf at the store, I didn't even consider there were choices other than colour!

The main thread types you've probably come across are

• All-purpose Polyester
The work-horse, the most common one that we all use.
• Cotton
This natural fibre is the next most readily available and has more variations and types for you to choose from.
• Linen
Another natural one that is most often used for hand sewing and decorative top-stitching, not many are available for sewing machines.
• Rayons & Silks
This is one that you might choose to match to your garment if it's something like a sheer chiffon as silk and rayon threads are super-fine but still strong!

Hopefully this video helps you make more of an informed choice on your threads and gives some starting points on how to choose.

My main tip though is, find a brand you like and stick to it, stay away from the generic really cheap stuff, it has a nasty habit of snapping constantly!

What threads do you use and prefer? We can all do with some recommendations on a super awesome brand, let us know below!

and even take a free class!

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[ivorybow]

This was very helpful, thank you. I have been sewing for at least 65 years, and I am chagrined to say I only just recently discovered the joy of hand sewing with silk. I use 50 weight. It threads the needle like a dream, which is vital for my older eyes. But what I love the most is how it does not twist as I am sewing, and glides so smoothly (like silk 🙂) through the fabric. It makes putting in a long hem a breeze. A side note..I have my grandmother's collection of threads. They are so old that they are not suitable for sewing any longer...they snap. But they are all on wooden spools, usually stamped with the price of 15 Cents. She made my and my mother's clothes with those threads all those decades ago...treasures!

[daxxydog]

One thing I was not aware of until recently, if your spool pin is upright, you need your thread to unwind top to bottom like standard thread spools like Coats and Clark. If your machine has horizontal spool pins, it is designed to take cross threaded spool pins like Gutermann. The way they unwind makes a difference in how the thread untwists! The same with sergers, they don’t like standard wound threads.

[kellieb]

I use the standard Gutermann polyester in my machine, but recently had the opportunity to use linen thread (run through a beeswax block) to sew buttons back onto my vintage 70s wool coat (because when one falls off, you know they ALL need resewing!) and I'm very confident those buttons are staying put no matter how roughly they're used!

[kogabear]

You’re a brave person to step into the subject of thread. There is probably no other more controversial subject in sewing. I’ve found that it not only the thread type and weight but also how it is wound on the bobbin and the heat of the iron used to set the seam. The best advice I think the best advice you gave in this video was play with it.

[kathleenwaters]

Hoping you will have a positive outcome with your treatments. Here’s my favorite machine tip: I keep a small size sticky note posted under my hand wheel. I slip it behind the needle to help me see the hole. Love your elegant sewing classes ❤

[ecummins]

I taught a class on hand sewing and covered this exact topic! For machine sewing I only use Guttermann and am moving from polyester to cotton thread to avoid adding any more micro plastic to the environment. For my hand sewing projects I use either silk or linen depending on what the fiber content and weight of the fabric is. Using silk to sew with is definitely a luxury but for fine hand sewing it can’t be beat.

[Hagar]

Excellent video, thank you! I'm definitely one of those noobs who didn't know much regarding thread. I had no IDEA there was such a variety of threads, much less that certain situations might call for different fibers.

[LynHannan]

Years ago, I'd bought some over-locking thread for a project only to be frustrated by it breaking constantly in the machine. Checked my machine over thoroughly and it was fine. pulled on the thread itself and it broke surprisingly easy in my arthritic hands. Took it back to place of purchase with the receipt and showed them, who then asked their manager for help. The manager explained that old stock degrades over time, so simply replaced it with new - and let me test it there and then!

[e.malloy]

The tailor shop at the department store I worked at was closing and I got 2 HUGE boxes of Gutermann Mara 100 All-Purpose Tex 30 weight polyester thread in nearly EVERY color imaginable for $25 (plus a bunch of other men's tailoring buttons and other notions and do-dads). As you might be thinking, it was all of varying degrees of age (and even a little dusty), but the price was right and now I have a rainbow thread wall that makes me very happy to look at when I walk into my sewing space. :) When I've had to purchase specific colors, I usually go for Coats & Clark black and white polyester thread. But I am really interested to try the Coats and Clark Eloflex thread I bought on my next knit wear/spandex/stretch project. I don't have a serger, so using something that was specifically designed as a high stretch thread in just a long straight stitch is an experiment I'm looking forward to trying out!

[rivergalen]

Gutterman Sew All is my go to. Easily accessible in a lot of colours.

[secretagentcakebaker]

Years ago I switched to Gutermann because I was always having trouble with the other threads. Never have trouble anymore. Now I teach sewing lessons and one of the first things I do is look through the student’s thread stash. It’s always old, random brands, such as Coats & Clark or even no name thread. We then go over threads and why it is important to use a good quality thread. I put several of their spools next to a Gutermann and a Sewology (Hobby Lobby brand) and show them how smooth the Guterman is compared to the others. Then I give them 2 spools of a Sewology thread, a black & a white, and that is what we use for their lessons. Sewology thread is from Hobby Lobby, not expensive, (99¢ on sale), not quite as good as Guterman, but so far better than the other stuff. The reason I give them the Sewology thread is because it is affordable for me to stock up during a sale and give away. If I could get Gutermann for 99¢, I would prefer to use that, but, cost is a factor, since I only am charging $15 an hour long lesson, and that includes me driving to their house and supplies. (I don’t really make any money with these lessons, it is more an act of service & charity to the homeschooling community.)

[lucilledaub]

Great video on all the different threads. I love your way of teaching.

[linvin]

Thinking of you on your Health Journey, sending healing hugs ❤

[UniversalEngineer]

Great video. I enjoy these videos so much. For machine work, I generally rely on the standard, consistency of polyester. For hand sewing and mending, I enjoy the experience of cotton. Again, along with the sewing community, I thoroughly enjoy Evelyn's pragmatic and aspirational videos. She transports us to another world of yesteryear.

[bookwyrm]

I use DMC polyester thread as that's what's widely available in my area. One disadvantage of using polyester thread is that if you use it on cotton fabric, and later wish to dye your garment, you may have issues with the fabric and thread not picking up the dye to the same degree. I've run into this recently - a toile that I made up in cotton muslin came out surprisingly well, and I'd love to dye it to make it more wearable. I used polyester thread, though, so I may need to unpick and resew the seams with a different color of thread if I do decide to dye it.

[janetd]

When I learned to sew in the late 60s, all we could buy was cotton-wrapped poly. When I began quilting in the 90s, everyone said to use cotton, so that’s what I began to buy. I’ve recently begun to do more bag making, and found polyester to be stronger, so have been buying that. Thread is one of those costs of sewing that I used to not think much about, but it can really get quite pricey! I recently ordered some Gutermann thread online because it was half price….and spent almost $100. Good thing it wasn’t FULL price!

[siviaknits]

Recently I tried a new cotton thread, Mettler silk-finish cotton. I love it! I agree that cotton is nicer to work with in general than polyester, and since I work with a lot of cotton handwoven fabrics, it makes good sense :)

[conneee]

Im also switching to cotton, was so happy when I started seeing it be more common

[lesliedickinson]

I like to experiment, so I’ll test threads and stitches on scraps of what I’m using. Sometimes you get unexpected results that you’ll love! I recently tried a 60wt polyester thread that was meant for delicate overlocking to instead use on a quilting project. I got lots of texture and the thread looked invisible. Always save some scraps for play!

[stephaniefeddock]

Hi there Evelyn. Always so great to see you and I love this video. I do feel thread can make a good garment great especially for
basting, seams, and finishing. I recall asking you this when I was looking to hand sew buttons and your guidance was spot on and you touched on this today when you spoke about the thickness of the thread. Thank you for sharing the thread topic on this channel! See you in Vintage Sewing School :)