Is your forearm fitness holding your endurance back? Here's how to find out ⏰

To improve your climbing endurance, it’s important train BOTH your technique, and your forearm fitness ✅

How can you find out if it’s your forearms holding you back?

Assessments are a great place to start. They never show the complete picture, but they are a logical starting place for many climbers.

📊 Why Assess?
If you can’t see how well-developed (or not) your energy systems are at the start, it’s much harder to evaluate the effectiveness of your training plan going forward.

⏱️ How to Assess?
Find out your 7-second max hang weight and take 60% of the total load (0.6 x [your bodyweight + added weight]).
Complete 7:3 repeaters at that load until failure and record the total time.

Make sure you hit the 7:3 ratio! A lot of climbers spend too much time shaking/chalking and miss the timing of getting on the fingerboard which will impact the results and make them less reproducible.

📆 When to Retest?
Adaptations take time and energy. Re-test after 4-12 weeks of training, and see if your time has improved.

If you have the time and want more information about your forearms then you can do multiple repeater tests (at 50, 60 and 70%) and create a graph to find your critical force. You could then monitor this instead of time to failure at 60% (but it does take longer).

➡️ Stay tuned for more on our Endurance and Power Endurance series…

#endurance #powerendurance #climbingtraining #onlinecourse #onlinecourseforclimbers #latticetraining

[enerock]

A little recap: hang for 7 sec. On 20mm edge With max load e.g. my max is 32kg and my weight is 72kg, total load 104kg, calculate 60% of total load, so I deload 10kg, hang 7sec. Rest 3sec. until you fail, sum the total 7+3+7+3+7+3 .... e.g. my max is 202 sec. Have fun

[itsmikehayden]

Ran out of heavy shit to hang with... What's a normal weight for this thing? I'm using a tool belt strapped with 45lbs kettle bells and 12lbs plates. I know it isn't much but seeing a ten pound plate in the video made it seem rather hard.

I'm only a v3/4 climber and know if my feet work improved I could do better.

I just think I need more finger strength and found this video very informative!

Straightforward overload plan. What more could you need?

[mrtotonio]

What is a good / average time to target ?

[arkratos]

what's a 7:3 repeater? Is that 7 second hangs 3 times? but wait he says till failure? No idea what he means

[raymundoarriola]

How many times a week should someone do the repeaters?