The World's Worst Belayer - Bad belaying techniques

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In climbing and mountaineering, proper use of belay devices is the cornerstone of the belay chain. The belayer holds the life of his partner in his hands. This task requires as much attention as it does training. The climber's confidence in his belayer has a major effect on his performance. It is important to remember that a good climber should also be a good belayer.

But first, meet "the worst belayer in the world" in this video... Any climber may encounter such behavior. Though it may not always be as exaggerated.

And even though we can laugh at him, we can also ask ourselves:
- Am I not maybe just as bad sometimes?
- If it were me at the other end of the rope, would I be laughing as loud?

More info about belaying techniques on:

Written & directed by Guillaume Broust

Soundtracks by :
Mandarine - "Ikon Jazz Rush"

All rights reserved - © Petzl 2013

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I hate it when my hands burn from the rope after my climbing partner falls all the way to the ground.

SuperAhmed

In summary:
1: Always hold the break end of the rope
2: Always hold the break end of the rope
3: Always hold the break end of the rope
4: When giving your partner slack, keep your hand on the break end of the rope
5: Always hold the break end of the rope
6: When lowering your partner, hold the break end of the rope
7: Tie a knot at the end of the rope

Schrodinger_

I love how this is the same guy as the world’s best belayer. He’s come a long way!

sajobandi

You figure after 2 or three falls she would stop climbing with this guy.

schlaznger

Wtf the guy at the end belaying and playing THE FLUTE?

huberttrocks

Every single one of these are exactly the same. You could boil this entire video down to "Hold the brake end of the rope.".

nerfzinet

Great video! His biggest mistake was to check out other female climbers while belaying Nina Caprez! Seriously, who would do that :-D

BerndThomasSchuller

The end with real climbers was the most frustrating part of this video.

doms.

when the dummy falls i crack up everytime, too funny xDDD

xPandastic

Amazing.
Petzl, setting the bar high, in a humerous way as per usual.

SnowRaven

Nice bit at the end about tying a knot at the end of the rope and how to belay with a GRIGRI. They never mentioned this in our lead belay class in the gym.

gfunkonthecheesetree

The portion from 8:00 to 8:11 is the scariest ...

boulderhead

i took a 25 ft fall back in July with my brother belaying me (I trained him with an ATC using BUS), the wall we were at required use of their Gri Gri set up and a Slip Slap Slide belay technique on our 2nd run on the way down his rope snagged under the . arm and i hit full force into 2 inches of plastic mulch ( no crash pads or soft landing surface) thankfully i still walked away but still did some permanent damange. the gym's first response after i decked was to yell at my brother from the desk, and accuse him of opening the brake too far. and then a couple minutes walked from their desk to see if i needed medical assistance. i still have to walk with a cane some days and have trouble laying on my back.

Lesson: trust the way you are most comfortable belaying, and do not trust wholly in autolockers

josheadanks

I remember I was doing high elements (An obstacle course about 3 storeys high) when I was about 15 years old, the rain just stopped and the course was wet and hard to balance. The belayer was a middle aged man with another man acting as an anchor. Though when I slipped and fell, the belayer didn't stop me from falling by pulling on the rope and when I was about a meter from the ground, I suddenly stopped and got wedgied really hard, turns out the anchor guy was smart and grabbed the rope in time but unfortunately he had major rope burns

rinnx