My Rock Climbing Training Routine to V8 Revealed (Beginner to Intermediate)

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My Rock Climbing Training Routine to V8 Revealed (Beginner to Intermediate) 이호석 클라이밍

The video goes over my routine I stuck with for my first 90 days of climbing.
Hope you guys enjoy!

Also Visit: Bouldering Vlog (Youtube Channel)
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From a kinesiologist perspective, this Korean guy just happens to check off plenty of things that would accelerate his progress, it's actually hilarious. Ample amount of recovery after training, treating training and climbing sessions as two independent programs to avoid overtraining, scapula retraction to isolate the lats during pull-ups, emphasizing the difference between neck effort and chest effort on pull-ups, emphasizing slow movements for metabolic stress which is important for muscular endurance... the list goes on lmfao. Well done.

tae
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Nice 45 minutes between my workout sets, I love this schedule

davidbosma
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instructions unclear, spent 3 days in the gym because of the 45minute rest

MartinClimbs
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"beginner to intermediate"

Do a gazillion pullups.

jrshipley
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Found my new favorite way to count reps: "One two three four ten"

gabeh
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“100 push-ups, 100 sit-ups, 100 squats, and a 10km run EVERY SINGLE DAY!!!”

abel
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No wonder! This training regimen is absolutely insane. Thanks Hoseok and Derek for putting this together!

cyhe
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I’ve been bouldering for 10 years or so, but never trained… I did this workout for the first time and my forearms and lats are still sore 4 days later. Absolutely brutal.

Careful out there folks!

aslanbc
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In 2023, this has worked to help me crush a 2 year plateau. I reached V5 as my limit after about a year of on-and-off climbing. Over the pandemic, I didn't climb much and lost fitness. I've been on-and-off again for part of this year mostly due to being sick for much of it. And even with the lack of consistency, my fitness still improved over time. But this training regiment has just skyrocketed my improvement in only 18 days. I climbed my first V6 last week and am now able to do plenty of them. I'm not even able to complete the full training day without cheating a bit and I'm already going from struggling on a good number of V4-V5s to flashing many, not having any I can't do, and already seeing V7 as a close goal. So I can only imagine where I can go if I keep this up. This is just a review for anyone considering trying this routine--it might just have something you're missing. At least a variant of this is worth a try. The main things I deviate on: campus on one training day and fingerboard the other, climb 3 days a week with 2 days rest, and to do a 10ish minute tailored stretching routine during each workout. I've been more consciously stretching for awhile though, and it makes a big difference in certain techniques and being confident in holding my body to more positions. Thank you Hoseok for your resources and hope this works for others!

jamesburnett
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This is going to help me send that pink one in the corner

PlumbingGod
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I like the part where you said you were tired

katrashis
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04:07 Hoseok Lee’s training day
04:29 pull-ups
12:00 push-ups
13:24 campus board *listen to your body
14:57 leg raises
17:56 sit-ups

요약
- 몸과 마음의 컨디션에 따른 트레이닝 데이, 클라이밍 데이, 휴식의 적절한 조화.
- 트레이닝 데이에 클라이밍 할 힘이 남다뇨?

영상 잘보고 갑니당ㅋㅋ

mangojoosu
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I can do ten pullups without breaking a sweat but to do this training routine I would need at least the mentioned 45 minutes of rest between the sets lmao

Pingvinicecream
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Thanks for the video I’m just getting started with climbing and this helped. One thing I’d change tho is when doing the uneven pullups, if one side feels harder for you, don’t do 10 reps for one side and 6-7 for the other. Instead start with your weak side and do as many as possible and then just do the same amount with the other hand, this way you will not end up with a stronger side and a weaker one.

Claudio-gvlz
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I decided to transcribe this training routine!

Schedule (example):
MO: train
TU: rest
WE: train (campus board)
TH: rest
FR: climb
SA: climb
SU: rest

And/or with variations (with 2 consecutive resting days):

MO: rest
TU: train (campus board)
WE: rest
TH: climb
FR: rest
SA: climb
SU: rest

Pull ups (3 max rep sets, 1 min rest in between sets):
Normal grip
Narrow grip
Wide grip
Uneven
Slow
Explosive

Push ups (3 max rep sets, 1 min rest):
Normal
Wide
Uneven

Campus board (3 max rep sets, 1 min rest):
Lock-off touches (each side)
2 x 2 (double doubles)
Rapid fire (fast up and down)

Leg raises, hanging from half crimp (3 sets, 1 min rest):
Same side foot
Cross foot
Feet together
X2 = 1 set

Sit-ups (3 max rep sets, 1min rest):
Normal
Cross
Flutter kicks
Toe touches

Climbing day golden tip:
Push your limits!!!

maxadams
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3 years late but i can’t tell if this guys first language is english or not? his english is so good, accent and everything

Kosaii-
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Hi, i just want to say thanks for that training routine because it just helped me so much last 2 weeks. from a v3 boulderer who had never done any higher grade ive been able to do 5 v4s and 1 v5 in just 2 weeks. Thanks!!

Siser
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I stumbled upon this from Reddit and tried the workout for the first time yesterday. I’m mainly a sport climber, projecting in the hard 10s / soft 11s and hardest outdoor boulder at v4.

I love it. I feel silly for not doing more pull ups as part of my training routine, and feel this will take me to the next level.

I modified by only doing 2 reps of each pull-up variation - still taking a full 45s to a minute of rest. By the fifth set I had to use a band assist - my form was breaking down. I decided for the second 5 sets to only do one rep of each, band assisted. I felt a bit sheepish doing such a small number with so much rest but I felt it important to complete the routine with good form. I’ll get there.

Thanks for such a simple and helpful routine Hoseok!

joshuawilliams
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I know for a fact that I will die following this routine, but I really want to get strong. Pray for me.

PineappleMaySan
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I'm very excited to have just started climbing! I'm 39 so it's a bit late to be starting but it's really fun.
I've gone bouldering 5 times now, just nought chalk and shoes and used them last session. I seem to find v2 easy and v3 impossible at the moment. Did my first dyno too, and succeeded!
Now I'm just sore as hell. Forearms seem to be the worst.

drummingtildeath