Super Dry Your Bambu Lab AMS with These Cool 3D Prints

HOT And HUMID means bad news for filament, having the Bambu Lab AMS helps a lot to keep your filament protected, but there isn't much space in there for desiccant. How about we fix that in this video, and while we're at it, we're also going to find a way to make the fix universal so it doesn't only work in one condition.

I'm very happy with the X1C as well as the AMS, they've really opened up a whole new world of 3D printing options. There are however some little adjustments that can be made to make the system better. One being the way that it keeps filament dry. Those two small packets are not easy to get to, I always forget they're there and I'm not sure how much they're really doing, since my desiccant gauge was always showing that I needed to add more. So in this video we're going to use some cool design techniques to see if we can't come up with something that will keep everything Bone dry for as long as possible.

While we're at it, we can also help to weigh down some of those spools which are nearly empty to keep them in good contact with the AMS spool rollers.

Cylinder Desiccant Holder (Bambu Spools Only):

Front Desiccant Holder for AMS:

Universal Internal Spool Desiccant Holder:

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NEW MIC (I bought this)

BAMBU PRINTERS

BAMBU FILAMENT

This link brings you to Crealty's filament if you have any interest in trying that out

This is the color changing desiccant I showed in the video:

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#ender3
#bambu
#3dprinting

[Martymiller-qn]

Love it. Simple, don't over engineer. Love that you modeled it for speed of build.

[PhilippensTube]

In your video, you said you didn't think the front desiccant trays would have enough 'drying power', but you didn't try it out. I tried it. I printed the three trays and at first I didn't fill 'm up. I just used the standard holes in the back with the supplied satchels of desiccant. I printed the front center tray just for holding the hygrometer which I got off of Amazon. I tried them first against two different hygrometers in my room (around 45% humidity, 20C) and it showed around 30% inside the AMS. I let that sit there for a few days (I had to wait for my kilo of desiccant anyway) and the humidity and temp remained stable. Then I filled up the left and right front trays with desiccant and within a couple of hours humidity dropped to 20% and it's still there. So I guess both solutions perform roughly the same, yours a bit better.

[monkeywrench]

The desiccant bottles that go in the spools also helps keep non-bambu spools from jumping as you are about to finish the filament. Other spools are lighter than the balbu ones and tend to jump when there isn’t much weight from the filament left.

[asecret]

Brilliant design! Kudos to you mate, I now have these in every spool I have at the ready - in AMS and also cereal-box storage.

[kbayo]

Great idea, I to was sticking packs in various places. The one thing that made me switch was that the rolls movement agitates the beads. The print turned out perfect. The only thing I did different was after the bottom layers were printed, I moved the speed up to ludicrous. Printed perfectly in PETG. Since performing this upgrade my humidity dropped from 40 to 30 and still going.

[Schnapsbrennor]

I love that its smaller in diameter so it fits into more spools and also has more surface for the air to go in.

[nickbb]

great idea! I'll definitely be using that! thanks for making it available !

[roncon]

I like these! Funny print story ... I first printed in PLA as I didn't have PETG yet. Print was fine, no issues. I still had to order desiccant beads. Got delayed, finally ordered the beads, and got some PETG in the meantime. I go to print them in PETG, and I have four failures in a row! The attached side kept easily detaching! I said to myself, "I'm going back to the vid to see if I'm doing something wrong". Sure enough, I forgot to add the .3mm to each line width as you said needed to be done in the vid. I apparently did it with the PLA print, but forgot about it in the interim. Oh well lesson learned, I saved the project with the added line widths this time, so it won't matter if I forget again! ;-) I have two printed in PETG successfully now, and printing another two as I write this.

[AlainPilon]

Using dessicant will not dry the filament. It will remove the moisture from the air and prevent them from getting moist. But to actually dry the filament, you need to heat it.

[verngibbs]

Absolutely Amazing. Thanks so much for creating this.

[Dr_Kenneth_Noisewater]

I live in Colorado. In the winter it is so dry that I run a steam humidifier to get my house’s ambient humidity UP to what you’re getting your AMS down to. In Colorado, life is a desiccant! 😂 But yeah my 4 AMSs sit at about 10% to 15% RH in winter lol.

[andyb]

Fantastic Job! Very informative and interesting video. Thank you.

[once-over]

Awesome dude! I'm setting up my ams to be perfect & I will definitely be using this design for the humidity control! Thank you 💯

[billb]

Thank you very much! Exactly the model I was looking for

[robbyg]

Hey great idea, works really well from your testing!

[jerrygrimes]

I've printed a WHOLE bunch of these, with the larger flanges, for all of my spools (40+ now). I print them in clear PETG so I can easily see the desiccant color. This has probably consumed nearly a whole spool of filament!

The Sunlu spools especially have a bigger core, so I also created some ventilated spacers for a bit more radial stability. I tried simply enlarging the design in X and Y, but the interference fit became unreliable. After chasing beads around my workshop when one popped open at the wrong moment, I decided to stay with the original and just add spacers. (I printed the spacers in ABS for max heat resistance, and they don't need to be transparent.)

[cityhunter]

wow great work man!! this is my first video i see from your channel and i'm sold! subscribed! great work!

[joenicholson]

Awesome, just what I was looking for.

[SimStig]

I thought those white packets in the AMS was something they added during shipping I removed these and binned them straight away 😂

[Schnapsbrennor]

Don't wonder about the Tube looking like the top lid is on. Activate spiral vase and slice and the solid cylinder will turn into a tube without a lid.
However I only manage to get the holes on the side, that point upwards. The one pointing downwards are not printed properly with pla. From the upright "ring" that starts each level the next line starts to squiggle as expected, but the slicer doesn't understand, that the ventilation needs to be drastically ramped up, get the PLA hard in mid air. So when the nozzle comes back above the "ring" the still soft PLA leans against that "ring" effectlivly closing the hole.