Fix a Hotend Clog On Ender 3 S1 Pro

If you've found yourself with a hot end clog on your Ender 3 S1 Pro then you'll know it's not an obvious fix.
In this video I'll give you a quick step-by-step method to get your clog cleaned out and your 3d printer up and running again.

Affiliate links (If you purchase something after clicking any of the below links I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. This is a great way to support the channel)

Nozzle Tool

Adjustable Spanner

Pliers

Geekbuying Ender 3 S1 Pro (Make sure you use the correct link for your location)

Code: NNNRICKYE3S1PUK (UK only)

Code: NNNRICKYE3S1PUS (US only)

Code: NNNRICKYE3S1PEU (EU only)

..............................................................................................................................................................

BUY ME A COFFEE
If you're enjoying my content, why not consider supporting the channel by buying me a coffee?
Even very small amounts are greatly appreciated and re-invested into bringing you better content.

You can also use the YouTube 'Thanks' button above if you prefer.
...............................................................................................................................................................

[allenjackson]

You are a gifted teacher! You don’t waste the viewers time with cutesy intros and comments. You remain clear and on-point with your tutorials. Exactly what I was looking for. THANK YOU SIR! I’m a subscriber for life!

[aaroncampbell]

Not the first time you've saved me a headache. Cheers. I say that before I have removed my clog, and it is the S1 Plus, so I believe not quite the same assembly, but very close. Guess there's only 1 way to find out.

[charliegoedel]

I was so stressed trying to finish a project in time for a birthday party and this video was the fix I needed! No BS, straight to the point. Works for Ender 3 S1 standard as well!

[PaulSandoval]

This is exactly what I needed. Spent an hour searching but was able to fix my problem 10 minutes after watching this video.
Thank you!

[EarthEngineMelbourne]

I have done that a couple of times and here is what I want to say.

* There is in general no need to remove the nozzle, unless you believe it is time to clean up things inside (in that case you will use a gas torch to burn everything inside up.
* The cold end contains a short PET pipe and it can be easily fall when you remove the hotend. Make sure you put it back when installing the hotend. Also it it not going out, check that there are no filament stuck there.
* The fitting depth of the hotend is important - when you put the hotend back to the hole in the cold end, it is not suppose to push fully into the hole, otherwise you will find the correct Z-offset will be out of range (-5mm I think).
* The other reason that the hotend shouldn't be fitted too deep is for cooling. That fitting is the only contact between the hotend and the coldend, so the smaller the area, the less heat will be transferring, reducing the risk of filament soften that cause clogs.
* However, the depth of fitting controls the gap between the PET pipe and the hotend, so if the hotend was fitted too low the risk of clogs caused by the gap will increase.
* In all cases, do a manual bed leveling after the process, to find out the correct z-offset since it will change.

[luketeal]

I seen the other videos that look so complicated... i was dreading it. Then I found your channel again this has instilled hope and desire again to tackle this issue.

[coderpaarush]

Your tutorial Helped me so much that the other ones couldn't. You made it so simple that even me a 12 year old owner of a printer could save myself

[soccerteas]

Holy hell, this was fantastic. I'd been struggling with a clog for hours today, and I was NOT looking forward to disassembling the entire hot end assembly. This, with literally just the tools I had on my desk already, worked perfectly, in under 15 minutes. Phenomenal.

[JoeAiello]

This is a great tip, and saved me lots of time, thanks!
I like the idea of keeping it plugged in, but in my case, I removed the head completely. Then, while seated at a table, I pointed a heat gun at the throat until the hex wrench popped the plug out. This was easier since my printer is just a foot from the floor, but this tip keeps me from fearing clogs as much!

[danielkees]

By far the best Sprite un-clog video I've been able to find. Thank you!

[AurleGagne]

Thank you. I first saw the other video you referred to here. So glad I kept looking and found this. Took away a lot of anxiety before starting. I would just add, you don't need to unmount it and mount it while it is heated. You can heat it after you place it on the build plate and let it cool before you remount it.

[nathanbrady]

This fix is much faster and easier than other videos I saw.

[glmccready]

Thank. Great videos. Just had to remove a 1.5mm piece of PLA. Unfortunately, just below the gears, between the 2 "arrows". So I had to take the whole thing apart. FYI: (for you and channel viewers) Had trouble getting the "gear" part back together. Had to tighten spring down more, to get the halves together. and then unscrew it again, after (to where is was, which was very loose. about 7 turns) Also noticed both my hot end screws were very loose. Didn't do it "hot", unplugged cord. Worked fine. AND just did a Z step calibration, too.

[pearltiger]

Thank you very much! First time and I couldn't figure out what happened; until I realized the filament spool had a crack in the side and caught the filament in it. I could hear the machine "grunting" but could see that everything looked normal. I even placed my hand on individual pieces trying to understand where the rhythmic grunting was coming from. Even when I realized it was the extruder, I STILL didn't know to look for a stalled filament line. Nothing on the machine to alarm when this happens either. Well, learn every day!

[paaablo]

Ricky... your video is a 10 of 10... so simple, easy and fast method!

[notdodgy]

In a case of I did this, so you don't have to... Make sure during re-assembly that you haven't twisted the cable to your print head. Great tutorial, helped me out of what I thought was a proper nightmare.

[DevonsWorkshop]

Unfortunately I needed this one today on my S1 Pro after 5 months of ownership and almost non-stop printing. 5 minutes is a slight exaggeration. Comfortably 15-20 minutes if your hot end screws are filled with material… even if you have a silicon sock. Thank you for your videos. I continually find myself referring to them. I’m pretty sure the reason i got a clog was due to too low of a z-offset which built up pressure. Sure enough the clog was exactly as shown in your video too.

[SeerWS]

Exactly the problem I had and exactly the solution I needed. Thanks for the thoughtful and helpful video, Ricky. You have a new loyal subscriber

[random]

you are a lifesaver i just installed my sprite pro kit on my ender 3 v2 and it already clogged i followed the tutorial and its working again.

[scottwarren]

Thank you so much for this video. I was getting very frustrated trying to find a video specific to the E3S1 Pro. I really enjoy your videos. They are easy to follow and understand. Thank you for making them for those of us who aren’t highly technical. 😀😀😀