Can you smooth out 3D Prints with Beeswax?

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This has got to be one of the crazier ways to smooth your 3D Prints but lets see if applying Beeswax Paste actually works!

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Files from todays video

Coffee Bean Scoop by Klingy23

Original Concept by u/Azazel_Tsubuzaki

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#3DPrinting #Beeswax #smoothing
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An idea so crazy I had to try it out for myself. Make sure you stick around for the end 😂🤦‍♂️

UncleJessy
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It's basically a food safe finish instead of a chemical finish. Woodworkers who make cutting boards and butcher blocks have been using beeswax as a finish forever. It seals the pores in the wood to keep food particles from getting stuck in there and going rancid. Cool trick applying it to 3D printed objects especially kitchen gadgets.
Also - I wonder if sanding (especially the higher grits) in a circular motion would help reduce the visibility of the scratches in the final product.

sjmaguirepdx
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you should retry the melted beeswax idea with a heat gun set to low (to not melt the plastic) and a brush to work the wax into the part. this same trick is often used to wax clothing for waterproofing.

nvrprfct
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Ummm... That last shot... Ummm...that's a...ah...different fandom...

DenisRyan
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You should look into scarf seams in orca slicer to further remove the "3D printed" look, well tuned they almost completely remove the vertical seam

cfarges
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I take all my cosplay tips from automotive body guys. I like to get around 320 before primer/filler. I think the general consensus is "pay me now, or pay me later" and sandpaper is cheaper than primer/filler. It's also important to note that you shouldn't sand with anything really above 400 grit before or during the primer/filler stage or you are asking for trouble so save those higher grits for late stage finishing touches if you plan on painting.

As for the beeswax, I'm not sure what you could use this for outside this one specific thing. It's got an even lower melting temp than the PLA so keep it away from hot food and drinks.

One thing resin and wood filler doesn't struggle with is heat resistance, and one thing 3D print enthusiasts probably have laying around anyway is resin. Personally, I don't mind the sanding, but if I had to pick one of the 3, I'd start with resin, and even then I'd pick wood filler before beeswax. 😅

Lionheartwolf
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I reckon the difference in color on the black is because the overhangs cooling. The difference got exaggerated by the sanding.

Christoferjh
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Try using a slow-speed buffer with a large cotton wheel (6 to 8 inches). It should remove minor scratches and give you a glass-like finish. I am not sure if it will work on PLA, but I use it on plexiglass to get the cut edges to look clean and see-through. If you sand it smooth and then buff it, in theory, it should give you a glass-like finish.

RetroResurrectionAI
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Try using the bee's wax (or petroleum jelly) on clear resin prints (after they are cleaned) to get a cheep clear coating that makes them really transparent

theyo
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I bet this technique would look amazing on a transparent PETG print or -- better yet -- a transparent resin print.

Voidmonster
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I use that black from elegoo and I was a bit disappointed at first as it was really cheap but it's stringed like crazy so I dried it and tried again and zero stringing, so I always buy it as it prints amazing and is so cheap, you can print fast with it too.

supertec
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Maybe when u done with wet sanding, u can blow the surface with the torch to melt the litle plastic particles, and then adding the wax maybe this could help remove the print lines at the end of the process

erikkalmar
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3:33 that's because different fan speed causing different layers to be at different temps.

DiomedesDominguez
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basically same as guards using beeswax to polish boots. it fills in the imperfections in the leather pores and then polish shines to a mirror

smittysbuilds
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micro mesh is my favourite for sanding prints

jakobfindlay
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Honestly, I like the look of the Doom mask more without the wax treatment, it looked more consistent and if I am going to sink hours into sanding, I would expect a better overall consistency than what was shown. I think in the matter of cosplay, the “look” is more important than the “feel”. Smoother doesn’t translate into better if you still see scratches and layer lines. Just saying. Thanks for all the effort you put into your videos!

davidzizza
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This method would definetly be amazing for wood filled filaments, because layer lines already adds to the look on the prints and this method compliments it more.

I would like to see spray paint on them, since its clear you cant hide layer lines visually.

yzkn
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I've had good results with just a rough sanding (120 grit) and then rubbing some candle wax on.
Remove a tea light from the aluminum cup and you can just rub the edge directly on the print, working in any chunks that come off with your fingers. Then rinse off the excess with warm water.

Dalenthas
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pretty cool. wonder what the 8 coats would be? In the Collision Repair world we have sandpapers up to 7, 000 - 8, 000 grit.. Super smooth!

GamingWithURO
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I think the visibility of the lines and scratches is more due to beeswax being transparent than anything else there. Might be interesting to see if it works for casting a print there

AzraelThanatos