How to Smooth 3D Prints - Using Power Tools to Sand PLA!

Welcome to Part 1 of "However many i feel like making" 3d Printing tutorials! With some confidence and a cheap power tool you can knock down and erase layer lines on PLA prints in a few minutes! Now clearly this wont work with small detailed items but for large armor prints and big pieces this can take you tons of time on post-work and help you gain a flat smooth surface without layer after layer of primer!

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#pla #smooth #3dprinting

[jasonnorville]

as as wood worker I believe that a random orbital sander will work best as it usually takes it's own flaws out while you sand also please use some kind of mask or respirator while sanding plastics metals and wood all are extremely harmful to your lungs but love the vid other wise and thanks for actually explaining things.

[bournemaking]

"It'll take me 5-10 minutes for a helmet"
*highly skeptical until process explained*
Actually makes a lot of sense. Thank you!

[KyloRenClub]

Fantastic tutorial. I've watched so many today that have been hard to follow, skip steps, and don't show the pieces fully sanded. Really appreciate your detail and consideration here, this will help me so much!

[pauladamsarccm]

Hey man. If you get sanding disks that are a couple of diameters too big for your sander you can get into those chamfered corners and reduce your hand sanding, but as you say it takes practice. Thanks for all your videos man! This is an amazing project and you are KILLING it!

[WallyJK]

It would have been cool to see the face plate with primer, half sanded, and half without, so we could see the difference. Maybe another time. Thanks for the great videos!

[andreasfenix]

that transition in the best way. that's amazing. keep gettin' it.

[pjsterchele]

This is great to know. I have seen a lot people say how you need to sand to a 3000+ grit sand paper. I'm going to try this method next time.

[Omalleyus]

Ah a man of culture... power tools, I see so many people trying "hacks" because sanding big props and costumes takes too long, then I see them with this little 1x1 inch square of sand paper

[oraclescave]

You asked for ideas on filling in bad spots on prints.
I have started using a 3d pen to plastic weld/fill after I have stitched the joints together with soddering iron.
But also using the 3d pen to build up bad or missing areas with the same filament and having great success.

This might help your future builds, stops unwanted large deep areas of wood filler and colour matches your print.

And stronger than glue.

I totally dig your achievement dude
Awesome build, awesome for sharing your build.
I'm plucking up the courage to commit to building a suit, you are very inspiring.
Keep up the good work
👍👍👍

[piotrpaczuski]

Mystery solved. I did some car bodywork before, but I wasn't sure if PLA can relate. Turns out I would make lots of mistakes if I didn't watch your video. First off, sanding PLA is more like sanding bumper on car (similar grits used). Second, I had no idea that you can use wood filler! I thought it relies on wood's porosity, therefore I wouldn't consider it as a filler.

Thank you for your videos, mate. I really enjoy them and learn a lot :)

[wyattspop]

Got my Mando helmet printed and bought a new palm-sander to follow you! Thanks for the support

[techsavvyhero]

This is an uplifiting video! I did some orbital, mouse and hand sanding today on some of my old helmets and I was using 120 and 220 grit sandpaper. I will pick up some 80 grit discs and give them a shot as well to follow along. I had a similar base rear support surface issue as well. I tried woodfiller at first then Bondo spot putty, but looks like I got myself in a sanding nightmare by doing the latter. LOL live and learn, trial by fire

[wyattspop]

This video was absolutely invaluable, 10, 000 times better with the palm sander than hand-sanding. I'm using a dremel with proper attachment for tight corners, also have sanding attachments for my power drill

[Joelthegeek]

i have a Dr Fate Helmet someone 3d printed for me. This was a great tutorial to help me with the sanding process. I watched a few others and they did not go over sanding as well as you did! thanks!

[wyattspop]

Hey Frank..The best thing I've learned in the first months of 3 printing is which products to use and when you apply them. This deserves it's own video. In my very limited experience, (correct me if I'm wrong) Putty Glaze seems to work best for fine print lines, and to use in tight corners where sanding is tough to get at, while straight Automotive Bondo is best for any gaps when you glue parts together, or if you damage a part by over-sanding. One caveat, use Bondo sparingly because it's much harder to sand down than putty glaze or wood filler and you will either be left with a raised surface when you prime or you'll have to sand so much that you'll burn surrounding print areas or create "valleys" just trying to knock down the Bondo. Like I said, this topic deserves it's own video, which products, when to use them and how.

[Kanjo_Retired]

Could I recommend you use an interface pad of sorts?! It goes between pad and paper! Good for curved surfaces! Saves burning through and leaving flat spots etc!

[Explodingbomb]

Thank you for making a tutorial that isn’t convoluted and hard to digest, cause I just watched a video of someone using like 6 different grit sandpapers.

[dbackscott]

I use a palm sander all the time with 80 to 120 grit paper. To the people saying you’ll burn or melt your piece, sure, if you’re ham fisted about it. Sand for a few moments then lift for a while to let cool.

[jarredmauney]

This video was extremely helpful! Thank you so much!

[incognitoburrito]

Yeah, I definitely have to sand since I stupidly printed the front of a part face-down🤦‍♀️ This will probably help, thanks.