Does Wood Filler work on 3D Prints? Lets find out!

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I normally use Bondo to fill gaps and smooth 3D printed parts, I read a suggestion to try out normal wood filler. So I grab a project that I am working on, and test it out!

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You are right it is not wood, but it is ridged in layers or grain very similar to wood. The way some adhesives work is by filling in the grooves/pores etc and expanding slightly as it cures. This means it actually has a grip in the surface defects. Now other adhesives straight up melt the surfaces chemically together both work great for 3d printing when used properly.

PWNHUB
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Totally thought it was the helmet of the dark knight in monty python

wolfdendrones
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*As for anything one should always sand the surface before adding filler or paint for best results. *. I’ve worked in Paint & Body shops for years. If your surface is smooth and you think you should paint on it without a light scuff/sand with a high/smooth wet sand, I recommend that you do, it eliminates possible chipping later. Furthermore there are also scuffing pads that can be purchased for pre paint scuffing specifically for before paint prep. Good luck with everyone’s projects!!

He_Who_Frolics
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Gonna use this for Squall's Gunblade that I've made.
I tried the first 6 pieces of the blade at an angle, in order to make it so that I wouldn't have as much of an issue sanding it, but the supports didn't come off right, so now it needs a TON of filler. Thanks for the video man! Real game changer.

jamestyler
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Very useful! I was doing it the cheap/ineffective way of using a mix of superglue and baby powder, which worked fine for small holes but is a nightmare for anything larger. I'll definitely have to give this a try

zombieplasticclock
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I've used the filler "plastic wood" with good results. It does have acetone in it and bonds really nice to ABS parts. But it hardens in about 15 minutes, usually less.. It's also more of a putty then a goop and can be molded, and smoothed with tiny bit of acetone.

anthonyst.angelo
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i use a soldering iron to melt and shape seams. zero glue and solid transition.
good for melting old supports to fill gaps or using filament from near empty spool as filler.

EpicProvider
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An old credit card, or folded stiff cardboard would probably improve the application. Thanks for sharing your technique!!

Trident
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I'll be using wood filler in a few hours from now, so this video and the primer video will definitely come in handy for me!

LeapsofFaith
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Idk if I’m just too impatient to sand properly, but I use Bondo to fill seam gaps from glueing two printed parts together and I can never get the lines to be completely invisible. This method looks like I’d be able to get the desired effect. Thank you!

TherealHK-
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Very useful. Thank you. How do you feel about wood filler now after all this time? Would you still use it?

gd
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Nice. Going to try this as soon as Amazon deliver it

ArcanePath
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I was trying Wood Filler with a helmet, but after one coat of primer, it still scratches off. Don't know if it needs more coats and a final paint to remain strong.

playero
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You can use a wet sponge also to help contour

uscstaylor
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Do you think you can do a comparison between wood filler and wood putty, I'm wondering how both of them would compare in 3d print finishing.

DelcoRanz
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I've used epoxy clay (Apoxie Sculpt) on some projects (not 3D printed ones, tho). It's stiffer than typical wood fillers, but dries pretty tough, sands nicely, and doesn't give off volatile organic compounds (that I know of). You do need to wear gloves while working with it as it is an epoxy. If wood filler sticks to 3D prints, I can't see why epoxy-based fillers wouldn't.

MMuraseofSandvich
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Im wondering if something like stucco would work the same way

am
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I don't know "Bondo" works so well because it bonds well. I have had wood filler flake off even on wood which is its intended purpose and the last thing you want is to put the time in for a proper paint job and then a little heat expansion or bending of the plastic and a chunk just pops off. Body filler works well even on PETG which in my experience super glue doesn't even stick to.

ryankrammes
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Use automotive glazing putty. Comes in a tube with the consistency of toothpaste, no mixing and dries hard in 30-45 minutes. Super easy to work with. Has a slight smell but nothing like bondo. Easily sands and will adhere to plastics very well. I fear wood filler will eventually come loose and flake off.

sublimationman
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Works great, at least on the PLA prints I've used it on. I'd suggest, however, that you buy the Elmer's wood filler that changes color (purple to white) once it's dry. That makes it really easy to tell when everything is perfectly dry, no matter how thick the coat is. The white color also makes it very apparent when you've sanded down to plastic, the valleys between print layers being filled with the white putty. I use dark blue PLA, so the white really stands out.

winstonsmith