Comparison of 4 different CNC endmill router bits

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The chip out of some CNC router bits was annoying, so i ordered some different types and made this test.

The candidates:
1.) straight cut router bit
2.) up cut router bit
3.) down cut router bit
4.) up/down cut router bit

Like standard router bits for handheld machines, the straight cut type seems to work great on my CNC.

All four router bits are from aliexpress-Seller "CNC Cheap Store":

straight cut:

down cut:

up-/down cut:

upcut:
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good video, however I would have liked it without the music. Hearing how the bit cuts I think is beneficial too.

zfotoguy
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Wow, what a difference. I'm going to look at some straight cut router bits. Thanx for the demo.

elmarqo_
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For the "up/down cut bit' the first pass depth must be deeper than the "Up Cut" section of the bit.

LexMexNow
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For my experienced of 7yrs working on cnc.. every bits has different kind of works itself..
Different programming set up, speed, materials to use, rpm..
*straight cut- cleaning offset
*up cut - cutting woods/mdf
*down cut - cutting woods/mdf, , cleaning offset
*up/down cut - cutting apc material, acrylic plastic, aluminum material, pvc sheet..(recommended this material for single flute up/down cut)
*up cut ballnose - only for 3D works also for cutting.

show.me.bobsandvagene
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Great video! stated the scenario and straight to the testing!
the music was taxing, like being on hold with bank of america

arsaeterna
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One of the best videos I have seen so far, professional and very objective : )

thTek
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What are the speeds and feeds for the video?

powercircuitman
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Thanks for this Video. I had the same problem on the oak wood and this really helped me!

TA-lbwl
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Multiplex is not the nicest material to cut clean in once. Straight cut is the best all arounder, since it's is at a relative ideal angle for the directions of both layers. The up/down cutter benefits from it's cutting angles when the bit makes 1 pass for total depth, where the lower part should be cutting up and the highest part is cutting down. (the way you use it, it acts like an up cutting bit. When passing at total depth at once, it minimizes defects at the top and bottom finish (on paper ideal for W400 multiplex ). Chips are compressed as well, not always good for cooling the bit :)

berendlucasvanderweide
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what are the spindle speeds and rates?

charliefromnh
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Fantastic test. Thanks for sharing, will change my thinking. Now to Amazon... :-)

skysurferuk
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The video is great provide one can tough out the music.

JimTaylor
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I wish I could give this one two thumbs-up. Great video, bro.

xoneeleven
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The flat dual flute looks the best to me.... but this is on plywood.... what about hard woods? I know the compression is out of the question for hard woods, but I’m having trouble where if I’m carving something, the bottom shows streaks of where the bit has passed.... I think I’m using a down cut.... and I’d like to minimize sanding in the deeper part of the cut

agustinbmed
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Just goes to show that just because you can make it, doesn't make it necessary. The straight cut did as good of a job (if not slightly better) than the down cut, and for the amount that the up/down is going to cost extra, us it really THAT much better of a job done?

lloydpittonet
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Your video helped me a lot! Thanks my friend!

VitaliMateus
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Good demo video but the music was annoying.

vapoureyes
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Thanks - a good comparison. Would have been interesting though to see the result of the straight cutter doing a single pass where it cut through the bottom - although if the top side was clean, the bottom side would probably be the same.

justcruisin
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The only problem with this video is you do not explain that you actually use the up/down-cut bit wrong in the first part and do a second test where it is used correctly. Most people will not watch the entire clip. Check your analytics and see how many stop watching after you show them the 4 first cuts. These people walk away with the wrong idea.
Other than that, great that you did the second test!

kreature
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I'm new tp CNC milling of woods. I spent about 10 years doing everything from rough carpentry and framing, to finish carpentry (some very high end, very fine work), to cabinetry and furniture making.

After a detour through biotech, I found my niche in CNC machining of metals. Over about 12 years, with a 2 year Machine Tool Technics technical college program, I went from machine operator, to setups and editing code, to leadman, to programming, to process optimization, to process engineering and management, to finally running the whole shop (both production department and manufacturing engineering department).

So, I'm capable of learning and understanding this.

Have you tested other cutter designs, such as carbide end mills used for metals or multi-purpose cutting, carbide end mills used for non-ferrous machining, inserted end mills (similar concept to a Shelix -Byrd cutterhead), cutters design for wood that were not bought at bottom of the barrel vendors?

Just as the overall shape of the cutter effects the results you get, things like the material the cutter is made from, any coatings that are applied to the cutter, the flute shape, the edge prep of the cutter, of course the speed and feed at which the cutter is used, as well as the tool path itself, can all have significant and drastic effects on the results you get.

The material you use in this test, how different is this material from cutting softer woods like pine, or cutting harder woods like Purpleheart or Ebony, or a figured hardwood like Tiger Maple or a figured Red Heart or Bloodwood?

I find surprisingly little information regarding efficient milling of woods, as compared to the amount of information on cutting metals, and I am trying to find a good source for reliable, accurate, and thoroughly researched and tested information. Any ideas where I can find resources?

Metalbass