5 Steps To PERFECT Shifting!

A step-by-step procedure for diagnosing and dialing in rear shifting on your MTB, road, or gravel bike.

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[teddgram]

For the hanger alignment, I usually find the valve stem and use that as my check point. I'll rotate it to the top, check the alignment distance, then rotate the wheel so the stem is at the bottom and check there. Same for left to right. This takes the possibility of the rim being bent out of the equation.

Also, when setting the limits, I'll try and manually move the derailleur to go past the limits to make sure it won't try and skip off the end of the cassette.

[prof_writer]

Professor Sauce I'm confident you get exceptional teaching evaluations. You not only do the work, you clarify why each procedure is necessary.

[FrancoisTerblanche]

This really is the best explanation and summary on shifting and indexing gears. So clear, precise and to the point. Thank you.

[jonathanpurves]

You are brilliant. You break everything down perfectly.

[timothydonner]

great video and good tip on starting on the 2nd cog when dialing in the index shifting. Not that way I've done it but it makes sense! Love the balance of your explanations and where you think it is ok to bend some rules in a pinch.

[daveg]

One thing the viewers might not know is the whole cross chain thing if it applies to your bike.
If you have a front derailleur, assure it is on the smaller, inner front cog when checking the rear low limit screw.
Assure on the larger, outer front cog when checking the rear high limit screw.
Should be obvious, look at the chain and make sure it is straight. Cross chaining can keep it from ever aligning well.

I liked that hanger tool. Gotta grab one.

[Jinedan]

When someone comes to me with a badly-shifting bike I always check the axle tightness first, then derailleur bolt. Sometimes that's the only issue and is a quick, easy fix that will have you chasing your tail if you don't check it first. After that I run through gears, and if it's bad in just one or two cogs I straighten the derailleur hanger.

[thomaskuhn]

Great tip for setting cable tension using the second cog as a reference.

[nikveldkamp]

Absolutely spot on! Thanks for neat explanations, summarizing those steps for a solid check-up routine.

[mountainbikingwithalan]

Thanks for the tutorial on how to adjust my shifting

[shannonparker]

Excellent. Thank you. The tip on using the second smallest cog for indexing makes so much sense after you explain it. Indexing drives me crazy sometimes. This helps a great deal.

[traderquinn]

I learnt a new word today! Orthogonal
Thanks!

[thomasjones]

Great video! I like to check the high limit screw with no cable tension before checking the indexing.

[trekkeruss]

Pro wrench here: You should first check the hub and freehub bearings for play; loose bearings mean the cassette (or chainrings up front) are "floating" and not running 100% true. Checking the condition of the chain, cogs, and chainrings should be at the beginning as well; dialing in shifting with a worn out chain is semi-pointless. As someone else commented, the cable and housing should be inspected for corrosion and/or kinks, cuts, etc. Cable housing does wear out; if in doubt, replace it. If the shifter feels vague or you can barely feel it indexing, the shifter should be flushed with a degreaser and re-lubricated.

[SeventhTenant]

Excellent explanation! I generally do all the maintenance by myself and know a thing or two about derailleurs, watched a ton of YT stuff and I can tell you that this was exceptionally good instructional video! Kinda how I imagine myself explaining to others how bicycle components work but in a much more structured and professional manner 😅 Good work!

[JaroMe]

The cable is also important to keep on top of too! If there's too much resistance, it can affect the downshift as the extra resistance of the plastic tube can sort of 'grab' onto the cable, causing an extra delay in shifting making it inconsistent

[Fatbutnotflat]

Very comprehensive tutorial! If i may add, be careful of the rear derailleur itself not aligned correctly, and if you value the derailleur quite well, might have had to align the hanger to the derailleur. So by eye, to the derailleur cage when extended fully (biggest cog).

When i changed the cheaper derailleur to GX eagle like yours, i have to realign the RD hanger. My guess the GX eagle derailleur would be quite aligned, so my cheaper derailleur is the misaligned one.

[michall]

On my GRX I have the adjuster right there on the rear derailleur which means I can basically set the shifting ‘by sight’ and 99% I don’t have to do any other adjustments. With XT on my MTB the adjuster is on the shifter which makes it unnecessarily more complex because you have to go back and forth.

[Finx]

As others mentioned, you should reference the DAG against the same spot on the rim. this accounts for any rim/axle wobble. Also, you should check to make sure the cassette is tight (and has the proper spacers if required) and that there is no play in your freehub/bearings. FWIW, I have no problem with WD-40 for some of this stuff, just know that it does have solvent in it, which will dissolve any grease in your bearings, so stay away from those. I prefer Boesheild T9 for the fact that it doesn't have any solvent. It is technically a film wax (surface protectant), but it will penetrate the bushings on jockey wheels and the pivots on your derailleur without risking rinsing the grease out of your bearings. Its also great to put on your exposed bolts, like water bottles, stems, etc. to help prevent corrosion (this is what Boeing designed it for). I use it every time I wipe down the bike (especially the trainer mounted bike).

[janeblogs]

#1 check: Test cable friction. Dirt, rust, kinks in the cable or housing.
Undo derailleur cable mount, pull the cable housing out of the shifter an inch. Then pull the cable an inch or so in and out from both ends. It should glide with no effort