How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 07-16 Honda CR-V

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In this video, 1A Auto shows you how to remove, replace, and install a sway bar end link. This video is applicable to the 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Honda CR-V

This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Honda CR-V
2008 Honda CR-V
2009 Honda CR-V
2010 Honda CR-V
2011 Honda CR-V

🔧 List of tools used:
• Large Locking Pliers
• 3/4 Inch Wrench
• Rust Penetrant

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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[AAuto]

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[MityQuinnn]

Thanks for the great videos. I'm working on my daughter's 2007 CRV. Replacing the front struts. I knew I was going to have a hard time with the hardware, so I soaked everything in penetrant twice in the weeks leading up to the job and on the day I worked on it. I still had to use the torch on most of the major nuts and bolts. Even after that, I snapped the stud on the left side sway bar link. Since it was screwed up, I just cut the lower connection. By the way, the links on her sway bars have wrench flats on the back sides. I didn't know this at first, and I had trouble with the the vice grips slipping. I want to say they are 11/16", but I'm not 100% sure.

[francismccabe]

Thank you for the very informative and comprehensive video. I used all of your steps to try and remove these easily accessible but extremely difficult nuts on my 2007 CRV. 1/2 hour with cheater/hammer/mapp gas on the upper end to get it out. 1 hour on the lower + fire cloth to protect sensor wire, brake line and cv boots only to get it a bit loose. Finally 5 minutes with Lennox diamond cut off wheel in angle grinder-yes, I had to cut through the relatively large diameter flange against the sway bar because I could not loosen nut enough for clearance to the screw shank (which would have taken only a minute to grind). Next time I will go straight to the grinder and save all that aggravation. The new Moog link has a hex flange on the ball side rather than that stupid hex hole in the end of the screw, making for much easier installation, and maybe removal if it goes bad in the next 220, 000 miles.

[Idontknowmaybejohnsmith]

You know this job is going to be a pain when the dude in the professional video is even having trouble.

[drumbliss]

Could hardly ask for a better video, in every regard. Thank you.

[yong]

Take out the top nuts first on both sides, take off both sides rod bushes holders (very important), than pull the rod out little to one side when you work on the lower nut, you will have enough room, do the same on the other side, it's very easy to take the lower nut off actually.

[haywardsdave]

Wow...thanks for a REAL video showing what a pain these links are to remove .. ALl the other vids you see on youtube show a quick spray of WD40 and suddenly as if my magic everything can easily be removed. Ive done front and back links on my CRV. Fronts I managed to get them off the anti roll bar but impossible to get either side of the strut. Backs came off the struts but not the anti roll bar.

[andrewharichandran]

Glad you troubleshooted the stuck pieces removal in the beginning with solutions. Thank you!

[CenterTree]

5:40 How do you get a torque wrench on that lower nut? The top is hard enough, but that bottom one, , , wow.

[crazybrazil]

This was my issue and your video helped! My car drives like new! Thank you so much!!

[edgarokras]

First time see a mechanic who cares about customer wheels and hubs. Usually they use guns to remore and tight wheel nuts and don't care about torque.

[danf]

Thanks for sharing! Very helpful but where's the anti-seize?

[walter.bellini]

Thank you for the video
Need to do this repair this week on wife's 2009 CR-V, we had the driver side done by mechanic, should have done both sides. Advice do both side if you are doing one side... Suggestion would also be if you can't get the nut out you might be able to use a nut cutter and make your life easier. Good video and thank you

[pari]

If you have wire that is next to sway bar, sliced then how do you fix that and what that wire is called 🤔 . The little white wire that is attached to the wall.

[dattran]

Are you supposed to torque down the links when there's a little bit of weight on the car?

[shanesubashe]

I just did this job and can confirm it is a pain. Had to cut off the bottom bolt with a grinder.

[aram]

if you are replacing the strut as well save your time and just cut the sway bars much faster and easier.

[Mikelodeon]

I have a question: I hear a "clacking" apparently from the sway bar link on my driver side. I was inspecting both sides of my car and I can NOT see any loose or broken part on my links. they look like they are just fine. But clacking only when I pass uneven surface, little holes or bumps, on even roads car is smooth. I wonder if the problem is this link (although I don't see any damage) . I appreciate any input regarding this matter. Nice video. Thank you

[maxwellhouse]

1. I liked how you used the 3M green masking tape to hide the brand name of the penetrant company.
2. Was curious why you used a 3/4"ratchet wrench for the tightening on the top fastener but went back to a 19mm for the torque application. The nuts I got with my NAPA "kit" didn't even have round bores for the stud and the disfigurement of the nut's hexagonal pattern made for a terrible attachment surface for either box end wrench, socket, or ratchet wrench. I ended up having to run a 12mm.x 1.25 tape though all four nuts to clean up the distortion in the thread bore. IF this was China's method to make a locking flange nut, they failed miserably, especially when the installer was going to have trouble with the stud spinning. To make sure the nuts didn't vibrate loose 5-10 years down the road, I simply used a thread locker product on the stud threads. The nuts from the rear links kit made in Thailand had no such trouble
4. Was curious how you got the torque wrench in the tight spaces for the application of the 58-9 ft. pounds for the bottom fastener? This isn't the first 1A Auto video that has edited out or skipped over a "challenging" strep in the procedure.
5. Even though it cost me $7 to purchase a pair of the Dremel stainless steel flat (as opposed to the cup style ) wire brush to get more rust off the exposed threads during removal, it was worth it. After applying the penetrant and waiting a few minutes, working the brush around the area where the penetrant needed access to the area where the stud and met, and then working outward to clean the rest of the threads, I reapplied the penetrant . I didn't see the benefit of the hand brushing as demonstrated in the video, especially since you couldn't get full 360 degree contact.with the bristles.

[pghharry]

Good video. Make sure you have a 3" cut off tool for the bottom nut.