How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 03-09 Mazda 3

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In this video, 1A Auto shows you how to remove, replace, and install a sway bar end link. This video is applicable to the 07 Mazda 3.

🔧 List of tools used:
• 5mm Hex Wrench

⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*

AAuto
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Sue is my favorite at explaining things clearly. Has helped me numerous times.

kfriend-bdif
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I love these videos. My dad and I come in very eager and over confident. Then we still end up 13 hours of misery and 6 trips to autozone

lady_mashclark
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Was getting a clicking noise when driving on uneven surfaces. Replaced the sway bar links & noise went away. Great video! If anyone if having trouble lining the sway bar links to the holes use a jack to lift up the control arm until holes are lined up.

hectormiguel
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Your video is very much appreciated. I just replaced my front end links on my 2014 mazda 5 a couple of hours ago. Ironically the last bolt was the toughest. The top bolt on the driver's side was rusted so i used your technique of the clamp on the backside and a bolt removal kit for the 14mm. Pop. Otherwise the tightening and torque went well. Rides better too.

dohc
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Do you have a video showing the replacement of the front sway bar bushings? Excellent clip, by the way. I've learned a lot from the 1AAuto videos.

scotw
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I go straight to 1A auto vids for torque numbers! Thank You

dianneb
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My links are factory and are finally starting to fail after 200k miles. I’m glad to know that the replacement is fairly straightforward, although I’m sure I’ll have plenty of rust to contend with as I’m in the northeast. Thanks for the video!

Echo
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Unfortunately I had such a rusty bolt, neither method worked. So I went with the 3rd option and cut off the bolt with an angle grinder and cut-off disc. Had to do this with the rears as well and it sucks when you don't have much room doing it on the floor with the car on jack stands. The joys of living in a the rustbelt and having an old car. Thanks for the video though, well done!

jcuz
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Thank yoooouuu!!!! you guys saved me another $300!

belowaverage
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Just replaced my 2010 Mazda3's sway bar links today, which solved my "clunking" problem at low speeds and over speed bumps, but now my car has pretty steady overall vibration (wheel, floor, seats, etc.), most noticeable at 50+ mph. I drive my car a lot, and this vibration wasn't there before the repair—it was enough to make me car sick during my hour commute. When I take it back to the dealership, what should I have them look at? Alignment? Is there anything that could have been done during the repair that could cause this issue? Thanks, great video!

grahamwalsh
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Doing a tire rotation for my wife. All of sudden the front made a clunk . This video help tremendously. I thought I may be screwed lol.

theundead
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A very helpful video. I've got the dreaded 'clunk' and 'squeak' over speed bumps and the like; I've had the struts and top bushes replaced and am disappointed that the originals may have been okay and this could have been the problem. She's going up in the air tomorrow for me to have a look!!

paulhall
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Surprised that i didn't see some penetrating oil being used on those nuts to maybe help make removing them a little easier.

Also most of us don't have hex-head sockets, so an old-school high quality l-shaped hex wrench (NOT the all-in one folding set) would probably be fine without resorting to the locking pliers on the bottom nut, not to be critical. Also pre-treating with penetrating oil.

Very much appreciate this video series! Many thanks.👍

hellisalie
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Don’t you have to preload the end links before tightening?

antondugas
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I keep reading that suspension parts with bushings should be loaded with the cars weight or the suspension jacked up to ride height before torquing the nuts. Is this a myth since non of your suspension replacement videos do this step?

TheZigzone
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I found it easier to remove the both of them at the same time so it’s easier to move the sway bar up and down. No promise this won’t affect the bushing holding the sway bar but it works pretty well.

chasemika
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Can you guys do a video of replacing front sway bar bushings? There’s no videos of that on YouTube. Thanks

gabrielmeaury
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Doesn't the mounting bracket for the end link have a rubber damper attached to it? Mine is missing like yours. I was wondering if it comes without it from the factory for some cars.

rahul
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How long does it take for a new sway bar link bolts to rust after putting them on?
I'm in New York

avenger