Rotten Window repair from wet rot

Window repair from wet rot

[bigglesvideo]

A quick update for you! The repair lasted for 7 seven years, I have now replaced a fair bit of timber with new, looks good and will hopefully last even longer!

[bigglesvideo]

Just a quick update, 4 years on and the 'Temporary' repair is still holding good!

[lpaul]

Very helpful thank you! i've got 9 windows i've got to make patches on. the cost to replace them all would be around $3500 in the US

[dustbat]

Thanks for the time span on repair. How did it fail? Would like to have seen you do all of the work, as it is a beautiful job.Feel like we missed some good secrets.

[adriansandry]

Good job. I have used this very same method and the same products. What I can say is that a better, easier and longer lasting repair can be achieved using the flexible epoxy products made by Repair Care International. RCI method cuts back to sound timber, applies a two-part liquid that soaks into the good timber and creates a perfect bond with the filler. The RCI filler does not sag and you can use scraps of perspex as formers to create perfectly flat surfaces. Both methods work but RCI will last the longest.

[cheekaq]

Thank you very much for sharing g your knowledge. My conservatory needs some love and now I can get on to diy

[juliewood]

Hello, just wanted to say thank you so much for your video. You did an excellent job, it looks fantastic - nobody would know. Very well done.

[elenasinclair]

I've been using plastic filler on rotting window frames for forty years. Where the window doesn't get direct sunlight, a good repair can last for several decades as long as the paintwork's kept in good condition. Where the window gets sun, the continual expansion and contraction will usually cause a crack to open between filler and wood after a few years ( the sun will also cause the paint film to fail for the same reason ) So maintenance under these conditions will need to be more often and I invested in proper manufacturer. Dako Windows.

[lebronjameslol]

I use PC Woddy works great, you can use a chisel on it and dont need metal fillers for it to grab to on bigger fills but what you did looks great.

[urwholefamilydied]

5:40 I love how in the most important part, it just goes from you putting it on there, to edit; perfectly done.

[buddhistsympathizer]

Really useful tip to use that sander to remove the decayed wood - It would leave the good timber behind. Great job.

[GSMSfromFV]

About six years ago, I had dry-rot on a 4x6 beam of my patio cover that's exposed to the rain & water running off of the cover. There is a metal drip-edge. I cleaned it out, but didn't treat it. I used bondo as a filler, sanded & painted. No cracks or weakening so far. Still solid. I check it periodically & paint it every couple of years. It helps to live in a fairly dry climate like So. Calif.

Currently (Nov.'12) doing the same thing to repair termite damage on the rafter tails.

[xdtv]

0:36 my man just checked the time on his wrist

[HourEmergencySvcs]

Looks a lot better. Sorry to hear it's cracking, but looks like you've gotten some good advice on how to fix it right.

[jitterss]

I have a similar situation where I need to build a "form" before placing the filler. I had thought about using vegetable oil to keep the filler from attaching to the form, but was concerned the oil might react with the filler. Apparently, you did not have a problem.

[Acorn]

Hey man, amazing vid! Thanks for posting! Was wondering, what is that sanding brush-like drill attachment you first started sanding the edges of the rot with, before using the mouse sander? Thanks!

[TezTezTezTezTez]

0:37 looks at wristwatch... oh wait, where's it gone?!! 🤣🤣🤣

[davemc]

Great job... and quite a savings as well!

[bigglesvideo]

All your comments have been taken on board, thank you very much!! It has indeed started to crack already!! I shall be making a Sequel film in due course when I have some spare time!

[whodatzz]

How hard is it to shape the bottom of that first job? I can see the second job being easier with a bottom side to hold up the epoxy... but that first site didn't have that. Does there need to be some "scaffolding"?