Polyurethanes: Spray, Wipe-on, or Brush -- Which is Best?

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In this quick tip video, I go over the differences between polyurethane spray, brush, and wipe-on. One of them really surprises me.
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I used wipe on poly on a guitar restoration project and did not sand between coats.
Looks fabulous and 6 years now still the best results I've ever gotten on a guitar refinishing project. ❤

ghostboatsofsouthernmichig
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It is so refreshing to find videos that get right to the point lol

ewilson
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10/10 video Life is complicated, and you explained these complexions really well....

stevenrobinson
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Tom, thank you so much for all of your videos. About a year ago we had a small extension put on my home and they left a space between the old part of the house and the new part of the house and we had to put a piece of wood threshold in between, your video really helped me go through the process of the best way to polyurethane the threshold. It looks pretty good. Thank you!

SegaCDUniverse
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Thank you for showing us the difference in poly finishes. I will use the brush on for my dining table. I like the tip of buying the spray on at garage sales. How smart!

christinemcclelland
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If you live somewhere with high humidity, brush on oil based has a tendency to take a very long time to dry and cure. The higher solvent content in spray on results in faster and more complete drying.

Water based doesn't have this issue and the brush on can readily be sprayed through an HVLP gun straight from the can. The benefit is lower cost for a spray coat, lower VOC, and a less yellowed finish if you are looking for a perfectly clear finish.

I'm the end what is better depends on your environment, circumstances and desired results.

brendan
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I like the spray for smaller items which is what I do most. Initial cost is more, but no need for brushes and clean up. Less sanding and do overs.

ted
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1:42 & 1:58 & 2:10
I guess I never thought of buying an aerosol can of polyurethane, and I’ve made my own ‘wipe-on’ poly with naphtha.

What I was searching on was spraying polyurethane from a gun.

Never did before but have a furniture project I thought I’d try spraying because it takes only a minute or two to clean a spray gun, but brushing all the facets and corners of furniture is time consuming and often problematic to maintain the wet edge and avoid lap lines because good polyurethane ‘sets’ so quickly. I was hoping for commentary on the effective leveled coating (which is usually why I might use wipe on for certain pieces). I don’t know how well it flattens out compared to brushing but I guess I’m going to have to find out myself.

I’m just worried that spraying thinned and wet enough to flatten/level out from an hvlp since polyurethane is runny for longer than, say, marine topside paint which still flows out and continues to level as it coalesces.

Never really occurred to me to buy aerosol can polyurethane… finishes reduced for spraying can be as little as 15-20% product since thinners and propellant take up so much of the can, and the tiny volume and small pattern of the spray nozzle sortof defeats a primary advantage to spraying in a wood shop: time.

fishhuntadventure
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Like the video. I'm a professional wood finisher. We do 3 steps stain seal topcoat. We use polyurethane on most commercial projects. That all being said. In our system, the sealer does the work. The topcoat is a thin layer. I'm wondering if you were to do a high build sealer, then spray with polyurethane. When it bonds, it will become one.

jgod
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Have you tried not sanding between wipe on poly coats, but instead just knocking down the grain/surface with a brown paper (bag or back of a fine grit sandpaper) between coats? This is why I like wipe on poly there is no need to sand off brush strokes between coats.

we
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I can't remember having seen wipe-on polyurethane for sale here in UK/Ireland - perhaps I've just missed it - but I've been making my own version for a long time by diluting the brush-on version with white spirit (mineral spirit?) I dilute it about half and half and use it for sanding sealer and other fast finish requirements. Whether or not it's cost effective I just don't know. I just throw that in for everyone's consideration.

MarkMcCluney
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What would be best for an ash wood bat. Open grain.

Hardballleather
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Hi,
Thanks for the video...very informative. What is the best brush for application. I do not want brush marks... I that possible with a brush on poly.??
R

ricohernandez
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Now try grabbing a graco airless sprayer (i like the gx18) and drop that brush minwax fast drying in there.

Then spray down coats as thick as you brush.

Thin your top coat down, take pictures!

brandonhoffman
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HVLP spray gun is the best, no question about it.

IonkoGueorguiev
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While putting polyurethanes on during cold weather are there any steps I need to follow

detectorguy
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My only issue with the brush on is you have to sand it in between coats. I already did all that sanding before hand and i dont wamt to have to do anymore. My project now has hard to reach sanding areas. Its miserable

kendalledunkle
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Hey got a question about spray can Polys homie, I’m using Ace hardwares brand of spray Poly & it just says “apply additional coats before 2 or after 72 hours” on the can, so do I need to sand in between coats after waiting the 72 hours or nah?
I asked an employee & he said he didn’t think I needed to with the cans as long as I let it fully cure before recoating it but he wasn’t sure, & I haven’t been able to find any solid info online, I just keep finding shit about the wipe/brush on Polys & not the spray cans, so any info would be appreciated

ProfessorPerhaps
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Salam alaikum 🙏 great 👍👍👍 my dear friend 🙏 from Pakistan 🇵🇰 I'm New friend 🙏

Traditionalsetup
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You lost me in the brush on with bubbles and brush on you don't get no bubbles. 🤔🤔🤔🤔

thewoodshop