Security Progression and Anchors for Alpine Climbing

This video is meant to show a logical progression of ways in which we can provide and add security for a climbing team in alpine climbing terrain. All information has been vetted by certified AMGA guides and instructors. Enjoy! - Smile Mountain Guides

[frankwitte]

I really liked this video. Your belay and progression tips are very useful. I think people watching these sometimes forget that stopping a fall is important, but preventing one is even more important. It seemed to me that some of your unanchored belay positions might not stop a fall, but would definitely allow you to help the following climber prevent a fall if they temporarily lose balance or trip.

[vlaaady]

Super helpful! I especially liked the idea of progression between risk and protection. This relates to many situations in our life!

[moresnackspls]

Awesome video. Found some sketchy approaches while sport climbing, learning all about scrambling and these sort of belay techniques really broadened the activity for me.

[johngo]

Excellent video. Nice to see the progression through increasingly steep terrain.

[tutuantoine]

this was very enlightening, thanks for sharing guys! Really appreciate it, it helps me a lot :)

[Needafollower]

This is a really helpful video! Cheers 👍🏽

[yavuzkaya]

First of all, thank you for the videos. but I have a request from you. It would be better if you take the videos a little closer and use the microphone so that your voice can be heard better. Thank you.

[timonix]

I don't think I could trust myself to protect someone else without me or the climber being attached to some kind of anchor. There is no way I could stop a fall at 2:11 just holding a rope. It seems like it's more to keep the rope tidy as people follow when there is no way that they would fall. I could maybe hold a fall at 3:19 if I was prepared for it, but it sure wouldn't be pleasant and I wouldn't trust myself doing it without some connection to the nice big rock face behind.

[moiacolucci]

Great video and thank you! Where was this filmed? Looks like a great spot!

[Matthew-pxnu]

What size and length of rope do you recommend for 3rd class and 4th class ? Likely would not be doing any more than low grade 5th class .., thanks for any tips !