How to Pattern Draft | Bodice | Bust Apex Alterations

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Calling all sewists! Are you interested in learning how to draft patterns but don’t know where to start? In our new series, Pattern Drafting for Beginners, we teach you all the skills you will need to master creating custom made patterns and adaptations. Join Izzy as she takes you right from the beginning, paying attention to your form, basic drafting skills such as drawing and sewing your patterns and manipulation to get your garments fitting like a glove.

Throughout this series, you will discover our top recommendations for the best tools and fabric for pattern drafting in your sewing space. As well as crafting bespoke skirt, dress, trouser and top blocks, you will also learn how to work with darts, draft collars, sleeves, cuffs and much more. Subscribe and follow along so you don’t miss an episode!

Now that you have your custom bodice block, it’s time to look at common fitting issues which may occur, which are the result of our fabulous bodies all being unique! These easy-to-fix adjustments will help you to understand bespoke corrections to help you get that comfortable fit for your body. In this video, Izzy shows you how to find the apex of the bust to check that it’s in the correct place for your bodice and if not, how to lower or raise it to fit your bust. Stay tuned for more alterations in upcoming episodes.

Minerva is a friendly online community where you'll find thousands of people who love sewing just as much as you. Join today for free to set up your profile, start sharing your makes, connect with like-minded makers and explore a world of sewing inspiration.

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Great video as always. Clear instructions on how to alter a pattern.

samiwoo
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Another brilliant video. Everything explained so clearly.

MarionGordon-sblt
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Thank you very much for this tutorial.

elter
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Thank you. I just sewed up my block and this was the biggest issue it had.

pdxcyn
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Excellent thank you. You make it look and soun so easy 🎉

tangorhumba
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Dear Minerva!

I hope u r doing well.

I have a curious query!!

It's about easing required in the pattern of a deep neck, fitted blouse of waist length.

In the above-mentioned kind of pattern, does the easing needed in the bust circumference vary with respect to the high bust circumference of a body.
That is, if the high bust of a pattern is 32", the ease needed in the bust has to be lesser than that which is needed for the pattern with 42" high bust.

thanks in advance :)

nishavi
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When I tried on my toile, I could pinch out excess fabric at my bust point. Does that indicate the apex is in the wrong place or is it the dart itself which is the problem? Thanks.

wendypercival
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Thank you for the video, when trying on the bodice block, does one wear a bra or not. ☺

kathybarnard