Secret Formula for Drafting 18th Century Stay, Bodice, & Jacket Patterns (to your own measurements)

Discussing the basic concepts of conical bodice patterning. The 18th Century silhouette is a mystery that I must unravel, before it unravels me. But I think I figured out a big piece of the puzzle. My entire hypothesis is that despite the apparent complexity of 18th century patterns, they MUST have a simpler root. Occam's Razor: the simplest solution is almost always the best. There must be a reason clothing evolved like this, and simple patterns were a more natural solution for common people of the day who weren't fashion designers, people who just needed *clothes*. So my theory is that, quite opposite of these patterns being complex and unnatural, they must actually be simple to draft and fit to yourself, if only you know how.

In case you missed it in the last video description, the Outlander facebook group is currently taking orders for three different tweeds. Claire's Mist and Stone skirt tweed, the green plaid for Claire's S1 dress, and the plaid for Jaime's S1 coat! Orders close January 2nd.

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[MariahPattie]

Edit (12/27/20) I have been throughly outvoted on the notion of taking measurements without a bra 😬

[annedavis]

If ever ANYTHING needed a clickbait phrase like "pattern makers hate her!" On it.

I'm so short waisted that when I shorten paper stay patterns the amount I need to at the line they give, the edges of the curved lines of the stays are inches apart and it's basically re-drawing the entire pattern at that point. Then you're right back to trying to guess what the pattern is supposed to do to your body and how you'll match it. And I'd paid my precious money for them. *flailing squid arms*

I could absolutely hug you for this (in a socially distanced manner, and only if you're a hug person)

Thank you, you incredible being. Continue rocking on!

[garrettrobinson]

As a short-torsoed man, this is a revelation. I started tilting my waistbands recently and everything clicked into place. It's so good to know this is an actual thing!

[Betsyschugar]

Mariah: *explaining in great detail how to make a stays pattern from the base shape
Me, a confused dumb dumb: wot

[ninad]

For the hips, an Anterior and posterior tilt of the pelvis is possible. Anterior is the most common. A pelvic tilt will affect your posture and the curves in the spine. I am trying to fix my posture and now I am realizing that I now have to alter almost all of my fitted/tailored clothes :/

[wiktoriagrochowiecka]

I normally wouldn't comment after ten seconds of the video, but my God, those furniture are wonderful

[Linda-ehtt]

Mariah, you are brilliant. This was a PhD dissertation. Watching your mind work is stunning. You go so smoothly from keen insight to adorably human cutting out the wrong pieces. Thank you for sharing it all!

[bsal]

Hahaha. I am so glad there are both Micarahs and Mariahs in the world. I've learned so much from you both! 💜

[lieselemay]

You just inspired me to install a hole for a pivot point in my cutting table when i get back into my studio.

[spacecase]

You are brilliant.
I think math and logic wins when compared to other systems.

[spacecaptain]

Hi, I tried this with a curvy and floppy volunteer, and it worked very well. We wound up making a $4 pair of stays in an afternoon! Our goal was just to replace the obligatory painful bra with something comfortable, that would satisfy work/social rules in public places (she would much rather just wear a shirt and skip undergarments all together). We used your formula, and then cut that plain cone shape out of three dollar store plastic cutting boards, . We duct taped the pieces together, then lined the edges with some more folded duct tape. Lastly, we sewed a zipper to two of the duct tape edges. We made a lining, just because we thought she would need one, but so far, she says she doesn't need it. She's going to hang on to it for summer/sweating, but we'll see how that goes. It's very comfortable, and doesn't squeeze at all, though she notes it does perk things up in the front a bit, just because of the cone shape. Thank you so much for this formula, it's brilliant! Next time I might try putting holes into it for ventilation, and maybe encase it in a lining for long term structural integrity, additional comfort, ease of washing, and for fashion's sake, lols! Point is I will definitely do this again!

[DraemoraH]

You have no ideia how much you helped me! I made a petticoat styled skirt this week, and was having major trouble to make a bodice. I couldn't find a diagram of some sort to help me out, and there's little to none historical patterns being sold in the country I live. I'll probably have some trouble making it still, but just the fact that you showed how to calculate it and didn't use a dress form is so helpful. Thank you so much! It probably won't be historically accurate but will fit the aesthetic I'm going for (female hobbit clothing from the first Lord of the Rings film)

[zamouri]

As someone who has scoliosis and a twisted spine AND a hard time making patterns THIS. Has been the easiest tutorial to follow and the fact I can alter it to my left and right side to fit more comfortable 👏 chefs kiss. I cannot thank you enough.

[sapphirecamui]

I'll have to watch this several times until i understand more of it. i'll probably have to dig up some tutorials as well. i'd like to make a pair of stays or corset for myself because... pretty big chest and poorly fitting modern undergarments...

[annelieserose]

This is literally the only pattern that fits me I’ve tried drafting about 8 corsets before this including the online corset generator and this one is great. I measured while wearing a bra btw and it’s perfect . Thanks!😭🥰

[TimesmithDressHistory]

Staymaking is a huge passion of mine and I've been so excited by the attempts so many people have been making, at drafting their own stays patterns using the period documented "arc method" outlined in "Patterns of Fashion 5". It really ensures you end up with stays that fit properly, and that includes sitting in the right place on the body, which straight seamed conical stays just can't achieve. It's been a revelation! I attended the stays pattern drafting workshop taught by Luca Costiglioli at The School of Historical Dress in London and it was a total game changer for me. I am making new stays for myself right now, using the pattern I was able to draft for myself using the methods described in the tailoring and staymaking manuals from the 18th century. My mock-up was close to perfect!

[jeflarremore]

That's really cool. Very intelligent. I want to take those numbers and compare them and see if there is some sort of formula that could be derived to make a calculator. It's high school Calculus and computer programming all in one.

[shonitagarcia]

Yes. Some people are tilted in the waist line. Some are higher in the back and longer in the front. Not everyone is straight across unless you're not a very curvy person. Great share. Thank you.

[vivijd]

Oh wow!! Very similar to the “arc method” in patterns of fashion, ( studies by Luca Costigliolo) but more straightforward! I can’t wait to try it!!

[magbiblue]

This should make you happy: i used this method to make myself a 16th century italian renaissance bodice for an SCA event. it was definitely rushed, I didn't do the math perfectly (my fan ended up with a weird point in the front, but since I needed a point anyways I just left it), and I didn't realize that I needed to raise the neckline a bit, but somehow it still managed to fit near perfectly (the only fit issues I had were the too-low neckline, although I was wearing a shirt underneath so it was more physical discomfort than anything else, and the straps, which I drafted separately). Definitely mostly a success for at least 16th century italian renaissnace, although I'll definitely need to fine tune it before I make myself a pair of stays!