Front wheel bearing hub replacement, Volvo 850, S70, V70 - VOTD

Wheel bearing replacement: 2 to 4 hours. ($100 / $300 / $430

Over the past 5,000 miles or so I have heard my front right wheel bearing making a little noise. It hasn't gotten much worse but it's best to replace them before they come apart or tear something else up. I have a 1995 Volvo 850.

Proper torque values are:
- Wheel bearing bolts, 33 ft/lbs, then another 60 degrees.
- Brake caliper mounting bolts, 74 ft/lbs.
- Control arm bolts, ball join nut 13 ft/lbs. (plus 120 degrees), subframe bolts 48 ft/lbs. (plus 120 degrees),
- Wheel lug nuts, 80 ft/lbs.
- CV Axle bolt, 89 ft/lbs, then another 60 degrees (36mm or 32mm).

I used a OEM Volvo bearing (so I was told) which I purchased from eBay. I have read that a company named FAG makes bearings for Volvo. They also make the bearings for Timken. Anywho, I would like to think I have a bearing that will last another 227,800+ miles, that's why I went with Volvo. Unfortunately I have read that someone had an OEM bearing go out on them in less than 15,000 miles. We'll see (I plan on driving this car for some time).
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[sully]

Thank you so much, Robert. I bought a Volvo C70 1999 convert. I had no idea what was in store. I have always been a DIY'er but no longer have the garage or tools to do too much. The dealer here in Quebec charges 149.99 per hour and I just can't afford to pay this when I need something done. Your video's have helped make doing it myself a breeze. Now if the parts prices can only drop a bit, life would be great. Thanx again!!

[SixteenChickens]

Robert, you saved me a $300 repair.  I bought a bearing online for $35 an replaced it today in 2 hours, while watching your video about 20 times.  I wrote down your tools list ahead of time and bought almost everything I needed at pawn shops for less than $20 total. Most pawn shops will bargain on tool prices and you can pick up good ones for pennies on the dollar.  My caliper bolts were Torx47 (I have an S70) and so I got those at Harbor Freight.  Thanks again!

[snch]

I own 2 850s and one V70 T5 and properly maintain them all because of YOU Robert. I thank you VERY kindly. You are an amazing orator and mechanic! Your videos have saved me many a headache.

[RobertDIY]

Not sure but one of my buddies changed a bearing and it went bad 3 months later. Not worth the risk if you ask me. I've put about 7, 000 miles on mine already and it's doing well.

[RobertDIY]

No problem and thank you for clarifying your comment. Some people do like to replace related parts. Others also suggest replacing the cv axle seal that goes into the transmission when they replace an axle to avoid fluid leaks. I priced the OEM axles at the dealer and the cost was about $520 per axle.

[whip]

Robert,   the potholes in CT have taken their toll (again) on the right front wheel bearings of my 98 V70 AWD.  Two years ago I had one hub assy literally shatter.  The only thing holding the wheel on was the disc and caliper. This bearing took a hit and started with a tick tick sound, now its a chunk chunk that you can feel through the car.  Your video helped a lot, simple and to the point.  This car has close to miles on it, and I would like to get to 300K. All my Volvos got over 250K and I love the older versions.  I'll check back for over projects.
Thanks for taking the time to video this.

[katherinesanders]

I have a long list of to-do's on my '99 S70 wagon. I think I am going to try to fix most of them myself with the use of your videos. I love to learn new things AND save money. Thank you for these videos!!!

[tractioncontrlol]

Thanks for putting this together, very helpful. I just took out a bearing that was rusted on so tight, that it fell apart when I hit it with a hammer. To get the backside out, I loosely threaded in one of the star bolts and hit that with a hammer and it popped out within a few strikes.

[philrupp]

There does not seem to be anti-seize nor other lubricant on the drive axle spline. Perhaps there is not much movement to require such? Also, I am grateful for your recommendation to tighten the axle bolt AFTER tightening the wheel mounting bolts and putting the car's weight on the suspension so the drive axle has no play. I finally figured out two different shops had not done this. Much noise and frustration has now been alleviated. Thanks again, Robert. Your efforts have made ownership and repair of these cool cars very enjoyable.

[RobertDIY]

Yes, it is either a 36 mm or a 32 mm. I'm not sure why they use 2 different size nuts.

[ronshepard]

Robert- THANK YOU. All the right information to get me going down the road again. I got the Timken bearing from amazon- but I should have ordered it with the replacement bolts- would have been easier than trying to find them locally.

[RobertDIY]

Good for you. The car will grow on you quickly. I'll keep the video's coming. I'm going to try to post 2 today.

[RobertDIY]

You are welcome and thanks for watching.

Most of the stuff can be used on a number of cars. Glad they help.

[erikstrieter]

Thanks for your videos Robert. I needed the hub replaced on my 95 850, shop quoted me a price of $385 parts included. I got a bearing and did it myself thanks to your video for guidance. My advice to all is be sure to get new star bolts before you start. I didn't and couldn't find any near me so I tried using regular bolts by grinding them down but it was no good so I had to reuse the old ones (they were in ok shape).

[OpasJDGarage]

The last comment was in addition to what I wrote before - the left side axle cost me $60 bucks (new and machined well). When I replace my right ball joint and open up that side, for that price, I'm replacing it. Disclaimer - obviously if the axle has been replaced or the car has low miles it won't be needed. At the end of the day - it's up to the person turning the wrench - but.... I doubt if many 850's out there fall into to that category though. Thanks again for the videos.

[RobertDIY]

You are welcome. Glad they help. Thanks for watching.

[RobertDIY]

You are welcome. Thank you for watching.

[OpasJDGarage]

Thanks for video! LOL as I made the mistake of only buying the bearing - long story story, the car sat while I waited for most of the other front end parts to be shipped. My advise to folks doing this job is to buy the ALL parts Robert mentioned as the power of the internet has reduced the price of most aftermarket parts. Chances are good if you have an 850 it will need front end steering and suspension parts. Thanks again for your great videos!

[schmengis]

Great video - I'm using it to guide me through this process on my '98 V70. One thing to be careful of: make sure your E14 or E16 Torx socket is fully engaged (as far on the bolt head as possible) on the wheel bearing mounting bolt, before you loosen them with a breaker bar! I rounded off one of those bolts because I didn't have the socket seated properly, and once they start rounding there's no saving them at the level they're torqued at.
To fix it, I ended up taking the steering knuckle off entirely, which only involves disconnecting the tie rod end and the two strut bolts at that point, and cutting/drilling out the bolt head on my workbench. Luckily, the steering knuckle itself is not threaded, only the wheel bearing assembly, so cutting off the bolt head (I'm using my Dremel) should take care of it, and I expect the remainder of the bolt to come out with the old bearing assembly.

[theSteakosaurus]

D'oh, don't know how I missed it. I'll be doing a wheel bearing, ball joint, PCV system, and timing belt on my newly acquired 850 this weekend and your videos have been invaluable in preparing. Thanks!