Project 2015 Outback: Wheel Bearing & CV Axle Replacement! Again! No More Noise, For Real This Time!

Please Like, Comment, and Share. Be sure to subscribe for future videos. Don't forget to hit the bell icon for notifications. YouTube has changed what they show subscribers!

I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.

[patrickkillilea]

Being a Powersports Mechanic, I generally do not like to work on cars. But, I have to say, after rebuilding my daughter's toasted 2005 Forester, I think Subaru's are really cool, and pretty fun to work on. I like them a bunch... Your video's are great!

[gregbriden]

I recently swapped a wheel bearing on my 2013 outback 3.6 using a cheap punch set from HarborFreight and a 5lb hammer. Loosen the four nuts on the back of the wheel bearing assembly a few turns. Then use the largest punch in the kit and tap all four sequentially. Came right off.

[mikeaho]

I love watching your videos so I can imagine what it’s like to work on a vehicle with no rust. 😂 I’m from the rust belt (Massachusetts)

[Salvi_LGT]

I recently did some work to my 06 legacy GT, did both front axles, knuckles, hub and bearings, inner and outer tie rods, brake calipers, control arms and ball joints, all because I bought an old rusty POS that had leaking front axle boots. It wasn't bad, but now I feel confident when driving it.

[wim]

that's a great parts site, I have used them for a year now: timing belt & pulleys, water pump & thermostat, and front hubs, bushings, CV boots.

[permaculture]

Always great to see the tools to make the job a little easier!

[barkyharrington]

And after a brief test drive, you discover the rumbling sound was coming from the rear all along. :D

[peterschroeder]

I hope you didn't get stung by that hornet that was on your arm!! Great video as usual. (13:44 mark)

[TubeBrowser]

Doing all 4 ....uh...8 on my 17 White outtie like yous. THANKS for the video. 192K miles. Subie parts deals 2x more than Timkins on Rok auto. Help us keep these rigs on the road.

[erberIsSillyhawk]

Ive replaced my cv on the driver's side THREE TIMES NOW. i love the car.. i hate the repairs

[markhenshaw]

That WASP was lining up for a good sting. You lucked out on that one. love your videos.

[PubnicoExpat]

Your videos are so helpful. I'm in the middle of swapping out the engine and transmission on my daughter's outback. Biggest automotive project I've ever taken on. Seeing light at the end of the tunnel though.

[richardsmith]

Amazing you posted this video, I had a 2017 Subaru Impreza with 40K on it and started to notice a humming sound which varied with speed. I took it to a dealer and found the left rear wheel bearings were failing which would mean changing the whole hub as the bearings are pressed in and part of the hub or so I was told. Lucky for me I had the extended warranty and all parts and labor were covered ! THEN 3 months later the right rear bearings went out and the same repair had to be performed I have never had wheel bearing go out in any car I've owned ( 45 ) and started to wonder if quality control was slipping at Subaru. I traded that Impreza for a new 2020 and have had no problems with wheel bearings since. Was or is this a issue with Subaru as the dealer told me " you must be driving on rough roads ". LOL

[WorkinOnIt]

Great video, especially appreciate including the torque for each bolt & nut. I just did the job on a 2018 Outback with 99K miles. Notes:
* You need a puller for the hub (as shown in this video). I could have hammered until the end of time and it wouldn't have come out.
* I ended up freeing the spindles and pressing out the hubs with a shop press. It required detaching 2 bolts at the strut and two ball joint studs. The upper strut bolt needs to be marked so it can be clocked exactly the same when reinstalled. My fork splitter damaged the spindle's lower ball joint, so it had to be replaced.
* Getting the lower ball joint out of the spindle is a bitch. Neither one would come out without me driving a chisel into the slit to spread the spindle where it surrounds the joint. Even after that it was a big struggle to get it out. I cleaned the pocket and put a layer of anti-seize to make it easier for the next person doing the job.
* My new axles didn't come with differential seals. Those had to be purchased separately. Oddly, O'Reilly said the driver and passenger side seals were different part numbers - 710724 (driver) and 710739 (passenger). They looked identical.
* A slide hammer with the 3-fingered attachment worked great to remove the old seals.
* I tapped in the new seals using a long rod, .25" thick with a flat face. Just worked my way around and around the outside of the seal until the rod was hitting the diff case.
* No tool needed to either pull the axle or install a new one. A good yank pulled it out and a good shove put the new one all the way in.
* The old hubs were definitely bad - in one full rotation, part of the turn was easy and part was MUCH firmer.

[michaelweatherhead]

Thanks for the video Robert nicely done 👍❤❤. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed.

[dennisroberts]

You are a Ray of Sunshine, compared to other Subaru 'Experts' LOL, as alway's very informative !

[MrPoppyDuck]

Nice job! You make it look so easy! Thanks for the great video!

[ExTrumpet]

That rotor came off exactly how all of mine do...said nobody ever!!

[leonardobehrens]

Oh Man, Video quality has really improved over the years. Id love to see some old videos "revisited" with more quality and details. (of course they are good still)

[davidmahan]

I always replace both sides at the same time, my reasoning is if one side has gone the other side can't be far behind, if they're both done the same mileage.