I Dropped a Massive Rock on the Most Advanced Helmet | Ep.8

Climbing Helmet Technologies went a long way, however many still choose to not wear one while Climbing.
Here is my take and a fun experiment on this topic.

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Deep Thanks!
Ben

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[bas]

Weeks ago I researched what I could find about helmets and would like to add a few things:
Climbing Helmets are certified with CE EN 12492 = good for falling rocks on top of your head, pointy sharp objects. UIAA 106 is the same thing but with a higher standard. and for multiple impacts.
Bike Helmets use CE EN 1078 and are designed for smashing your head against something (mostly the ground) and like Ben said a single time. Ski Helmets are certified with 1077 (with two classes) that are designed for smashing your head like the bike helmets, but have to be stronger, because you are faster on ski and you have pointy objects like rocks you can crash against and. also they are designed for multiple impacts, like climbing helmets.

So for example if you climb in the gym:
you have 0 chance of having something falling on your head (nearly, because a hold couldn't be screwed right or something of your harness could come off)
but have a chance of hitting your head on the wall = a bike helmet would be better for this situation than a helmet that is only for climbing.

if you climb outdoor the chance of something falling on your head is huge. so a bike helmet wouldn't be so good for pointy heavy stones (ofc better than no helmet at all) so a climbing helmet > a bike helmet.
But because you have also the chance of hitting your head against the rock or floor etc. the best thing would be a double certified helmet. most of them have the even better ski helmet certificate. so they have CE EN 1249 (and often UIAA 106) + CE EN 1077. that would really be the way to go, if you love your brain and well. living.

Like Ben and Mammut showed there are helmets that are only (I think so, didn't look it up) climbing certified BUT also care about these side impacts and crashing the rock falls. some Petzl helmets for example have a double certificate light version called certificated for ski tours.

On the other hand there were tests from the DAV showing that some only climbing certified helmets bring HIGHER forces to the head in case of a crash, because they are like hart hats for constructors etc and only designed for objects falling from above!

also great, that Ben mentioned MIPS and its found its way into the climbing sport!

So in conclusion: don't wear the cheapest only plastic shell helmets, if you might crash your head. inform yourself how good the helmet protects for these nasty falls where your head crashes into the rock. if you really want to be on the safe side: look for double certified helmets with CE EN 1077.
If you want to be even safer go with MIPS on top of that (your head. good joke, no?)

I think there are helmets that have both. but fe the black diamond vision mips has no ski certificate, but looks well better protective for these impacts than for example a cheap hard shell helmet. and has mips!
Or the Grivel Duetto has the climbing and ski certificates and is very light. sadly it has no MIPS, that would make it the perfect non plus ultra helmet.

And yes, safer (esp. safer for more styles of impact) helmets are easily double or triple as expensive. But look at it this way: When it saved your head it was totally worth every penny (I think everybody would even prefer paying 1000€ over having a serious head injury, esp. in USA where such an injury could actually cost you thousands). so what is 80€ more for that? And if you don't have such an accident, you can use the helmet for years (have to switch if after time because the foam will change)

So either way it is well worth it. (:

The text got longer than I expected, but I think it is very important information, because its your safety we are talking about. and your most important and easily destroyed (while climbing) part of the body.

And I am not the helmet police, do what you want. But never ever make fun of someone who wears helmets where you think its not necessary. some people value their brains (:

[manuelc]

I've recently had an experience with a 10kg rock falling ont my belayer's head. I'm eager to see this video! He had a helmet and we were extremely lucky. He had to undergo skull surgery but he's okay now, and nobody else got hurt.

[smuir]

Seriously the best climbing gear channel I know of! I grew up without helmets, but I am being won over. My whitewater Kayaking friend took a rock to the forehead, the helmet was crushed and he was still cut, but if he would not have had it I am positive it would have killed him. Besides helmets allow you to climb harder, push a bit more, so really they are worth it. Sure wish Ondra and other pros would wear them more. It would go a long way and probably save lives

[bryanwatt]

Brilliant vid. As a newbie I sometimes feel a bit stupid wearing a helmet when experienced climbers around me don't, and this vid is a good reminder.

[laramiegrinde]

Fun story. A friend and I were at the base of a crag packing up. We loaded our packs, took our helmets off, and were literally putting our packs on our backs when another group dislodge a massive rotten flake of rock. One person went flying, another person was just above it, and the belayer managed to dive sideways while still death gripping the rope and kept his climber safe. It sounded like someone hurling microwave sized rocks. You could FEEL the ground shake from where they were hitting. Needless to say, it scared the shit out of all of us. Aside from one guy having a deep hand laceration, we were all ok. Now we both wear helmets as soon as we get anywhere near the base of a crag.

[renciapolous]

Thank you and every single person who makes donations :). Really enjoy your vids, thanks so much for all of the episodes and information. Looking forward to seeing the 8A climbing story.

[greyedut]

I've gotten so much value out of all these videos, just wanted to say thank you!

[qwedasfgrvnjh]

I just discovered your channel yesterday and man, your videos should really be the benchmark for other YouTubers on how to do it right. High quality, straight to the point, good structure, excellent explanations and just the right mix of humor and horror mixed with great facts to really draw in the viewers.

[ribt]

Thank you for this important video.
But there is another important thing with bicycle helmets : If you read the little label inside of them you will see "NOT FOR CLIMBING, RISK ON STRANGULATION". Indeed, if your climbing helmet get blocked but your body wants to continue falling, the strap will detach from the helmet. With a bicycle helmet, you will be hanged.

[heitorcabral]

On my very first climbing lesson, 10 years ago, we had just arrived at the base of a route and the instructor said "first thing you do is put on your helmet". Immediately after he said that a cellphone came down the route from other people above and crashed like a meteor on the ground just beside me and exploded into pieces.
Nowadays I put on my helmet before even getting close to the rock face.

[tienyichi]

Dude, your videos are gold! Many of the topics were like "that's what I wondered, but in no way I could test it in real life". Thanks for your effort!

[AmyLeia]

GRRREAT EXPERIMENT! So funny but also so important matter on security! Extra love to MAMMUT for being a loyal sponsor to your awesome videos!💚

[mikel]

A few other details- I think it's really great when the helmet has the twist dial on the back to fine tune the fit. I might put a buff or a cap with visor under the helmet. I mess with the dial every outing. Compared to using some "other" helmet: besides the head lamp attachment, it's designed for looking up! You don't want it to tip back and choke you. I've lightly bumped my head and appreciate that it didn't get dented or whatever, happy with the cheap BD half dome.

[thorbe]

You can actually remove those Petzl (strap) magnets, clean them or leave them out entirely (as stated in the manual btw). Another great video btw :)

[HeikeX]

Thank you Ben for this important video! I hope some people will change their behaviour and wear a helmet in the future.
I see so many people in Saxon Switzerland who do not wear helmets and I can’t understand this.
I have only one head, too. So I always (ok 99%) wear a helmet when I climb outside, Trad and Sportclimbing. And of course I wear it while belaying. Little effort and so much more safety.
Best regards and wishes!

[terriblegamers]

The first time I climbed outside my friend dropped a carabiner 20m up when cleaning the quickdraws. My girlfriend was belaying and managed to dodge the falling carabiner. She wasnt wearing a helmet, but I can only imagine if it hit her going that fast it could have messed her up pretty bad. The next day we all bought helmets.

[staywilddigitalmarketing]

That is amazing! I would never have thought helmet or not that the watermelons would survive that high of a fall from a rock. I don't like helmets, but pretty much wear them for every sport (mountain biking, snowboarding, climbing). I rarely wore a helmet when soloing since I though that there isn't anyone above me I didn't need to worry about rock fall from above, then I saw a clip of someone reaching up, grabbing a hold and a huge rock came right out of the wall and right onto their head, now I wear helmets.

[Gerardoosterwegel]

I really hope you can make a living from your channel!! The amount of (useful!!) info you put out there is superb :). I appreciate how you try to put quantitative and high quality info out there, without influencing it with your own opinion. it is much appreciated

[robeldam]

I'm on episode 5 of the belay masterclass but jumped to your latest video to show some appreciation! It's my first donation on YT and although it's a small one it doesn't reflect how much I really like your videos! Please keep up the good work :D

[ArinaThomsen]

Ben, I don''t like wearing a helmet, but I do because I remember a story about a biker who didn't like wearing his helmet either but his girlfriend Tanya made him wear it on one particular unfortunate night. It happened that he had a very bad wrack, was thrown out of bike by impact and while he was was rolling along the road, each time when his head was hitting the black top and making this "boom" sound he was telling himself in his head: "Thank you Tanya!". True story.