Amsoil Vs. Seafoam Engine Flush - Who Wins? Thorough comparison and PROOF

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Hi Everyone,

Thank you very much for watching!
For a long time I've wanted to see which product is superior between Amsoil and Seafoam Engine Flush (added to the crank case).

So I decided to test both products out on my high mileage Honda Accord (close to 400,000 kms).

I am not sponsored by either company, and this test is as unbiased as I could think to make it having just one vehicle to test on.

Please let me know if you think I could have done better in any areas as I am more than willing to try again!

0:00 Intro
0:46 - Description of products
2:00 - How I plan to remain unbiased
3:35 - Amsoil Testing Procedure
5:10 - Seafoam Testing Procedure
6:20 - Engine idle (no product)
6:51 - Engine idle after Amsoil Test
7:16 - Engine idle after Seafoam Test
7:44 - Valve Train before any testing
8:29 - Valve Train after Amsoil Test
9:29 - Valve Train after Seafoam Test
10:45 - Oil Visibility Test
12:08 - Conclusion and my Recommendation

Here's the link to the Project Farm video that I referenced in the video:

Thanks again and take care!
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I added a full bottle of SeaFoam and ran it in my Honda Accord 2.4L for 250 miles. Checked oil prior to the SF add and then after the 250 mi. Not that it’s scientific but was huge difference in color on the dipstick and white paper towel. Med brown prior and dark black after. Burns less oil per 1, 000 miles too. So will do a second SeaFoam clean again at next oil change. Engine has 238, 500 miles. Great video! Keep up the good work!

briandenisefarmer
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I really appreciate you going this far for a video. Thank you.

theambassador
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Wow, I am impressed by the color of the “new” oil after only 10min of life. Much darker than I would have ever expected!

diverfrog
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Just a thought: if you compare oil samples again, try pouring them each into a clear plastic cup or container, then shine a flashlight below them to see how well the light penetrates. That might help you see the difference in how contaminated each sample is.

GarenP
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An engine this gunked up you may want to do AMSOIL power foam, and do the engine flush everytime you change the oil with Signature series. I did it in my Focus ST and I can barely hear it and my fuel mileage went up 3 mpg instantly

Ruhdiculus
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I would think that the second flushing on the same engine is just loosening it up as you mentioned. I have used amsoil for many years and they are a great company with great products. Im sure both work well

jeffhdpd
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Seafoam is amazing, and for the cost of usage it is a no brainer! Another amazing product is the Marvel Mystery Oil, not sure they have this in Canada but it helps with engine running smoother and even the gas mileage!

freechasehappy
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Honestly these are not considered comparable products. I would recommend you trying AMSOIL Power Foam Vs. Seafoam next time. Would love to see that ;) good video!

manuelm_
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I trust and use Seafoam. Thanks for the assurance.

victorteo
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Seems like a fair compromise on products, personally for me, when I got my chrysler 300, with unknown service history and having ran Amsoil on my previous car, I opted for a 20k mile cleaning period where I used the Amsoil engine flush and Amsoil Signature series every 3 to 5k miles, and now I'm that I'm passed that and 7300miles into the regular service I'm sending out a oil sample for analysis

zachdailyfost
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I did not see any "sludge" in your engine but rather mainly varying layers of varnish perhaps with some carbon content. Sludge normally does not occur with on time engine oil changes unless there is something seriously wrong with the engine. Actual sludge will look like thick, goopy oil that instead of being in a liquid form instead has the consistency of gravy that got too thick. This occurs when oil has been been kept in use for too long of a period and has already begun to break down and then undergoes a transformation in conjunction with atmospheric moisture build up resulting in thick, goopy, sludge appearance. Varnish on the other hand is also a byproduct of combustion in conjunction with the exhaust vapors which are recycled back in to the engine combustion cycle, resulting in the vapor leaving a coating on the metal surfaces which is varnish with some carbon content. That is that dark, thin coating you are seeing on the underside of your valve cover and coating top engine parts. Most engine cleaners/flushes are pretty limited to what they can do to accumulated varnish coatings on the inside of the valve cover and cams but that doesn't mean that they are not cleaning the lower engine components including the oil pan (to a certain degree) of any possible oil byproduct build-up as any quality/effective brand will clean things up but they have limited effect against varnish, especially on the upper cylinder and valve cover area. For cleaning up accumulated varnish a better approach rather than an engine flush type product which are usually based on Napthenic based oils (which have cleaning properties) would be a heavy solvent based formula which is applied directly to the parts that have light to heavy varnish then physically wiping the varnish off of the metal surfaces. A product that would work for that purpose is Berryman B12. If you want to avoid (as much as possible) the accumulation of varnish in the upper cylinder, valve cover area in the first place then do more frequent oil changes. I've pulled valve covers off Honda engines that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them that had barely any varnish on them because the owners were NOT going by the factory recommended oil change intervals but instead have stuck to 3000 mile (5000 km) oil change intervals. After the 5000 mile mark, due to the repeated heat/cool cycle and fuel dilution effect, the amount of vapor deposition on the metal surfaces dramatically increases so that if a person is going by a 7500 mile oil change interval just because the manufacturer says that's "ok" to do and just because the outside of an oil container makes a claim such as 10, 000 miles on it, in the automotive repair world we can definitely see the difference when we pull the valve covers off.

marketingmajor
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Good job. There is definitely a difference Try another couple of rounds with Marvel Mystery oil. Add about 6 ounces and drive about 300 miles with it in the crankcase. You will see a new looking engine and clean valve cover. It works.

nicolem.
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I wonder if the test was done using Seafoam first and Amsoil second. I bet Amsoil would win. Is not fair to test both products on the same car, the 2nd product will always have the upper hand since the 1st product already did part of the cleaning.

thefguy
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Appreciate the video! Gives me some assurance to do a flush next oil change on my high mileage Hondas. Was worried about damaging seals before.

devenp
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I've never done a flush but after watching your video I bet using 1/4 bottle of Seafoam before each oil change would keep the internals looking brand new. And since they recommend driving a few miles with the Seafoam I don't think it will be bad for the engine. I'm going to try it on my next oil change. :))

tofupower
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Very good video! Thank you for the conducted test and sharing it!

nicholaspetre
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Try Liqui Moly pro line Engine Flush next time. It'll really liquify those caked on build up and flush it all out. Great video btw!

MrWarriorAsh
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There are two types of flushes. 1. Detergent based and 2. Solvent based
Detergent based are more expensive and are designed to slowly liquify sludge over time thereby preventing stopping up the oil screen on the engine pump. They are not a quick-fix products but are safe and effective over time. Examples are Amsoil, LiquiMoly.
Solvent based flushes are designed to be cheap and work quickly. Heavily sludged engines can be overloaded with the solvent and break large chunks of sludge loose and stopping the screen on the pump up. Sea foam, kerosene, and other inexpensive flushes are examples of solvent based flushes.
Both Amsoil, LiquiMoly, BG, and other professional products are designed to slowly dissolve sludge and transfer it to the filter for removal over time. None of them are designed to be quick fixes. They work great in modern VVT systems freeing up sticky solenoids and phasers.

prevost
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I'm a firm believer in Amsoil Signature Series and Seafoam, I have used Seafoam for over a decade and Amsoil for about 5 years. I appreciate your review of these products, thank you. A follow-up would video and also a second test would be awesome. I would be interested in seeing the same test but reversed. Not so much as a head to head comparison but as a combined review. Add the Seafoam drive it for whatever Canadian for 300 miles is and then run the Amsoil Flush. Gut feeling is that we would see an improvement.

mercrecon
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Just used a quart of atf for 100 miles. Works real well

josephfreeman