Machining Aluminum Plate with Sainsmart Genmitsu 3018 CNC

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UPDATE: A lot of the deficiencies in this video are due to inexperience and using the wrong tools.
Check out my new video to see what this machine is capable of with the right endmill and gcode!

Today I will be building and testing the Sainsmart Genmitsu 3018 PRO CNC on 1/4" thick 3003 aluminum plate.

I bought my CNC on Amazon
Sainsmart Genmitsu CNC 3018-PRO
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I've made gussets from 1/8" 6061-T6 aluminum using the stock Genmitsu 3018 PROver. Works like a charm. I upgraded the spindle motor so I can cut faster but you can cut through aluminum just fine with the stock 3018, albeit at a slow speed.

knightdaleknights
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"alright so here's the final result, annd, it kinda looks like crap" had me rolling. thanks for the video. it was good insight to what these things can do out of the box

JNPBuilds
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It's true that a 3018 is not powerful enough for cutting metal, but doesn't seem to be a bad tool for making very precise paths that can be later finished with regular powered hand tools.

MajorTom
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0:22 I lol'ed - ahahahahahahahaha

GeorgeGraves
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You need to use a 30in/min feed rate, 3k rpm on your motor, and only go down + G1 Z-0.001 each cycle.

This has Many Benefits
- Drill bits only scratch the surface each run.
- Each run is quieter
- Bits don't get hot
- Bits don't create large burrs. and thus don't catch, tear and pull
- Less Vibration and thus less damaged to the 3018

Because your feed rate is so high, you will cycle through a run every minute.
But with very little maintenance.

Come back when its done.

humbledcomposer
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to cut aluminum you need a much more rigid machine, if you put an indicator against the spindle and push, taking light cuts only leaves the heat in the endmill and not the chip, buy a machine with square linear rails

garylarson
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I definitely like to buy a small cnc like this. However this piece of work can be done easily with the method i use it for years. I print my plan with laser printer. Glue the paper on the sheet. Every center point printed on (especially the negative curves if you know what i mean) i start with drilling pilot holes. next the negative curves with hole saw, then the boundary with angle grinder. Next step is grinding or sanding, final hole sizes, countersink.

What i can not do manually is the 2, 5D parts. But as it seems like i need to keep looking. Until then, i have to accept the 3D printed parts.

opiniono-
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These smaller cnc's state that they are not really made for metal. It's pushing the boundaries of the unit. Maybe the beefier spindle would help?

DonnyHootieHoot
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MORE OIL keep reaplying when it gets dry! i did 100 mm/m and 50 for plunge and 0.2, the edges are bured alot but it cut

alexgoldman
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cool video, do you know exactly what the step down and feed rates were at in your tests? I want to try to cut some 1/4" aluminum with like a 1 or 2mm end mill and one of these bad boys, I was thinking about like .5mm-1mm step down at a 100mm per minute. Sounds slow but I'm thinking it might do a good job that way.

OGmolton
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That bit you're using doesn't look like an endmill, it looks like a rotozip bit. I think you might get better results using a better bit. I read down below that you're using a carbide tipped bit. You'll want to use HSS. Carbide won't cut as well in this machine.

robtsou
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You will have spend much more to get a CNC to cut aluminium plate. Good video keep up your work.

bigcountryvet
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If you look at the videos online you'll see that it cannot cut thick aluminum

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You say you're assembling a 3018 CNC and then you say it's 3018 Pro which one is it?

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Hello friend, you have a CNC like yours, but when I lost its parameters, you could only supply me with a total of 132?

nikolascarvalho
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Better cutting tip slower cutting speed with an air feed directed on the tip to cool it down

justso
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Guys, these are all cheat
Just try to shake the spindle by hand up and down
You will notice lot of shake due to lack of stiffness in linear rods
It cannot cut aluminium

Sam-chjh
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Hi, your Genmitzu have 10mm linear rods? Or 12mm?

TheDIMONART
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It was NOT designed for milling aluminium, so why the **** does everyone try? If you want to get decent results, you need a lot(!) of modifications to the original machine. The most prominent: The Z-axis. It is way to weak.
It however is quite good for what it was designed for: Wood.

StefanFendt