CNC-Engraved Aluminum Nameplates

You asked for it! Switching away from my previous acid-etching technique, I'm now engraving my custom nameplates robotically!

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TOOLS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO
(More information down below.)

CNC DETAILS (UPDATED)
This is the updated procedure I follow now, which has changed somewhat since I published this video. Note: Your results may vary. If you have questions, please leave them in the comments. However, please understand I can't provide a lot of troubleshooting or technical support.

I'm carving 5052 aluminum in this video. I've also tried 6061, which tends to carve a little better, but I have yet to eliminate all the burring.

1. Engrave the lettering. I occasionally try a new bit, and the one I currently recommend is listed below.
▶ Total Carve Depth: .003"
▶ Depth per Pass: .005" (This is the max. DPP I recommend for this bit, whatever the job.)
▶ Feed Rate: 45 ipm
▶ Plunge Rate: 30 ipm
2. Finish the surface with a light pass of the medium grade flap wheel, then a pass with the very fine grade. Don't press down, but let the wheels do the work. Working it too much can make the engraving too shallow. The following are a little pricey, but have lasted me a very long time.
3. Apply the lacquer stick. Note: Although I didn't show it in the video, I also follow it up with a light coat of Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Satin Clear Enamel to protect the lacquer fill.
4. Carve the holes using the helical end mill listed below.
▶ Hole Diameter: .145" (for 1/8" rivets)
▶ Total Carve Depth: .045" (on .040" aluminum to ensure cutting through)
▶ Depth per Pass: .01"
▶ Feed Rate: 15 ipm
▶ Plunge Rate: 15 ipm
▶ Add ramp to toolpath: Spiral (Vectric VCarve setting)
5. Cut the nameplate profiles using the same end mill as in step 3.
▶ Total Carve Depth: .045" (on .040" aluminum to ensure cutting through)
▶ Depth per Pass: .01"
▶ Feed Rate: 30 ipm
▶ Plunge Rate: 30 ipm
▶ Add ramp to toolpath: Smooth, Distance .5" (Vectric VCarve setting)
6. Sand the edges.

SEE ALSO

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[chrishenning]

Im a CNC programmer/machinist. We normally use carbide 1mm ball nose endmills for engraving. Depth of only .005 - .010 thou. They cut clean using a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the surface.

[TheWireEDM]

Cheap and easy option for the laquer stick is nail polish. Comes in variety of colors, is very cheap and has a little minibrush integrated to the bottle lid to dip it in to the valleys. After it dries in couple of minutes, wipe with a moist acetone cloth/paper all the excess and done. Holds up to machine coolants very well and it is easy to make clear signs with different colors in them :)

[stefanpries]

I like how you did this video.
Quick demo and all the needed facts are neat and clean in the description. No hustle, no fuzz. 👍🏼

[boblewis]

Here's a cool tip for even nicer looking name tags that I first tried over 40 years ago, on an amplifier's front and rear panels, that look as good today as when originally made.

Anodise and dye the tags, I like black, but any colour, including fading one to another then engrave through the anodising to expose the aluminium below. Looks great and no need to polish or lacquer fill afterwards.

[jkris]

At 2:08, I'm thinking "that is genius" because I just watched a video of you applying the lacquer stick by hand...at 2:21 I'm chuckling along with your new gained knowledge....your videos are awesome....Thank You!

[jjo]

Perfect timing. This came up in my recommended list as I've been contemplating a CNC for guitar amp faceplates. Very nice. Thank you.

[Tarquillentte]

Your videos have the distinct feature (what others may not have), that even though at first glance of the video title and thumbnail I'm not interested in the subject, I still find the video in itself very fascinating and well made - enjoyable, that is.


Fantastic work, Wesley!

[AquaPeet]

Love it when you show something (like the bottle of glue) for a moment, and then whip it out of the shot :D

[boblewis]

Really nice job and useful technique for holding thin sheets. Must try that myself for panels and PCBs. Should massively improve the PCB flatness and give a much more consistent surface level!

A technique I used around 40 years ago to do a front panel for an amplifier I made was to black anodise the aluminium after cutting out panel holes but BEFORE engraving and to engrave through the black anodising to the bare aluminium.

It looks as good today as the day I made it! If you get a chance you should try it sometime. Basically it gives the negative of your version.

[onlyychevys]

A V bit works great for engraving to, one pass and your done. Great video and thanks for sharing!

[wrgoeen]

Still fun to watch. Thanks for your time.

[peoplevt]

nice job, i didnt knew these kind of crayons, looks easy to color the engraves ! We can see still having rough edges , i would personally do the engraving then the brush you used, then a second carving pass to clear it up more, maybe a second brush pass . Thanks for sharing the infos !

[nvrgt]

Used this on a project. Worked great! Thanks!

[JayReidy]

Looking all over the internet for metallic labels. Now I can make them myself. Great video and thanks for the link.

[vivekanand]

thank you for good n a proper information may God bless you

[DanielH]

Very good information found in this video

[ulgfvkm]

идея с "два скотча и клей" это просто и гениально, как я сам не догадался ?!

[policedog]

Very good demo! Thanks - one observation: I recently noticed that on the aluminum nameplate of my 1952 Sears Craftsman table saw, they stamped the model number from the BACK side of the nameplate (using reversed or mirrored stamps?) anyway, it is different because when you look at the front of the nameplate, the model number appears with raised digits instead of sunken. Not sure why Sears did that and I'm not saying it is necessarily an improvement but I thought it interesting.  They used 0.025 thick or 22 gauge for the nameplate.

[maxximumb]

I want one of those nameplates so badly. I've followed the simple instructions in the video. Now to keep my fingers crossed. It's just a shame I'll never make it to the Maker Faire. It sounds like an awesome experience.

[rickshanteau]

Good I missed it, it is very important to know the type of aluminum you should use. I always use 6061 aluminum, as it works great for machining. Google the various types of aluminum that are made and there uses.