Mitsubishi SVZ Ducted Heat Pumps🔥 - What to Expect When You Make the Switch

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In this article, I wanted to address a few things about switching from a gas heater with electric air conditioning to all-electric heating and cooling with our Mitsubishi Ducted Heat Pumps.

Why the switch? – Many players in California are “all in” when it comes to the green energy movement and have set a goal for themselves to be carbon neutral by a specific date. In some cases, like SMUD Utility Company, it’s 2030, and others like the State of California, it’s 2035.

Some of the things we'll discuss in this video:

Why Some People Think Heat Pumps Don't Heat as Well as Gas Furnaces
Defrost Cycle – Why the Outdoor Unit Develops Water
I’ve Heard the Heat Strips Will Increase My Electric Bill
Why are the SEER ratings a little lower on the larger units?

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Retrofitted an SVZ in a 1960's all electric cape in CT (cold winter). Mounted air handler in unconditioned crawl space attic. System works great with low electric costs and minimal backup heat from electric baseboard in each room. No heat performance noted until temp gets below 20 but able to maintain indoor comfort without baseboard kicking on. Biggest challenge was finding a competent HVAC contractor who understood low static ducted systems. Most simply push wall mount systems or a basement full of flexduct.

josemacho
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Great video and love the product!

I am having increased electric bill with these units.. This is my 2nd year now.
1- PUZA36NHA7 Hyper Heat Outdoor Condenser
1- PVAA36AA7 Multi Position Heat Pump Air Handler (1st Floor)
1- PUZA30NHA7 Hyper Heat Outdoor Condenser
1- PVAA30AA7 Multi Position Heat Pump Air Handler (2nd Floor)

Last year my electric bill went up to $1, 160 in the winter and in the summer my bill is low as $176. I had the HVAC servicing team come many times to trouble shoot this unit.

We set our temp at 70-71 degrees in the winter. We notice the unit is constantly running to maintain the temp. the outside temp is 32-36degrees today and I feel like the machine was running most of the day. (70%) The service tech is saying to get heating strips and this way machine wont work as hard. But that is another thing going on the grid which will increase my electric usage. Any thoughts or suggestion?

Troubleshoot:

Did a blower door test to detect any leaks, and I passed.
Check refrigerant levels to ensure no leaks- passed
change air filters-
ask them to do another heat loss calculation. I was told the im oversized for the house by 7

Please help!

jerinzachariah
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Best explanation I've heard so far

maureendriscoll
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Good video and explanation. I have a 23 year old Mitsubishi Mr. Slim 3 zone unit that is still running strong! I have had to send the PC boards for two of the wall units to Australia for repairs because boards are no longer available. My unit is going to "give up the ghost" at some point and I will replace with a new Mitsubishi heat pump system. I live in Michigan and have an excellent heating system but the heat pump might be nice as a booster on occasion. Thanks for a good explanation! 🙂

jivepatrol
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I tried to get a SUZ Hyper Heat ducted system for my 1500sqft home here in Indiana. My contractor couldn't get one from the distributor, and when looking at the SVZ air handler, it only allows for up to 10KW heat strips, which probably wouldn't be enough for my home when it gets down to subzero temps. My old system used 15KW, bummer. I think maybe the P-Series would have worked, but still the problem of actually getting one. Kills me that this technology is out there and would save easily save me $1000 a year over what I have now, but I couldn't get it when I needed it.

I had to go with a 14 SEER American Standard Heat pump, will probably still save me some money overall as my system was nearly 20 years old. I wasn't going to bother spending extra on a high sear rating when I know the Electric Heat Strips are going to be the primary cost driver in my winter heating costs.

justinowens
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Great info. Definitely go with a heat pump system and solar panels, you'll pay nothing, or virtually nothing, for heat and AC again. I know, I did it.

RussellFineArt
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LG mini splits are great I personally think they are the quietest

kiowa
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Hyper heat is great, but how do you find Mitsubishi svz handles teh summer heat and humidity?

johnwhite
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I've always wondered, if you have ductless units in each bedroom and the open kitchen/family room: in a larger house, how do you keep the closets, bathrooms, and wash room conditioned?

sctexan
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I live where it can get to -30 F. What is the supplemental heat source for Mitsubishi SVZ's

Boodieman
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Always informative and down to earth for the consumer.
A question for you. What is the best time in the spring to get a working system inspection and service considering seasonal demand on the provider and the best outdoor temperatures to evaluate a system's functionality? You can expect the call from me this spring.
Thanks.

InsideOfMyOwnMind
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why does the Mitsubishi 24k h2i model MUZ-GS24nahz have such a high cooling and heating capacity compared to other 24k Mitsubishi models?

dmac
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Can you tell me what supply house you’re getting these the Mitsubishi mini split thank you

robertgonzalez
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Everything that was told here maybe good for California, but in areas with real cold and long winters it is not sustainable.
Here, in Ontario, Canada, not many people keep 68F inside the house, usually it is 73-75F.
Now, can you imagine what temperature of the air getting out of registers if heat pump gives around 100? Right, less then that.
As a result, heat pump is running almost 24/7 and keeping temperature way below what people expected.
With split multi head it could be a different story- yes, we can warm up room with 100/95, though personally, I would prefer higher discharge temperature.
Regarding furnace and control- when I set my thermostat on required temperature, it is keeping it without any problems and steady.
If you bring into that complicity of heat pumps and possible cost of repairs, better to stay with natural gas furnace.

alexanderzaitsev
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Are you sure about heat strips? I'm looking at a 5 ton Mitsubishi heat pump (MXZ-SM60NAMU) ducted system. It is 100% down to 15 degrees. My design cold temp is 27 degrees but often gets into the teens with a few record single digits. Mitsubishi has told me I do not need a heat strip or hyper heat. I am colder than Placerville temps. I'm OK if my heat pump has to work overtime a few nights at less than 100% as long as it still stays warm enough. I can run space heaters/fireplaces if needed. Do you think we really need a heat strip?

allent
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Great informative video. Question for you, I’m in a 1400 sf 3/2 80’s build track home (plan to be here 20+ years) in 916 that currently has a 3 ton 13 SEER Bryant A/C gas furnace ducted system. It’s probably 15-20 years old and still working good🤞 but unable to hold 75F internal on 100F+ summer days.
I’m preparing for eventually replacing the system with a new heat pump, and considering either an upflow ducted unit that reuses the existing ductwork, or replace everything entirely and retrofit in a 4~5 zone EZ-Fit system with ceiling cassettes. The house has an oversized solar panel system so power is a surplus. Would the added cost for the multi-zone system be worth it? (Comfort/control, efficiency, durability/longevity?, maintenance)?

apachestepside
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Thank you learned a lot watching you 👍

beto
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Don’t forget that newer homes have “tighter” building envelopes and as a result have less air leakage, allowing the building to retain heat/cold better. Traditional gas-electric systems were designed with the assumptions that air leakage is part of the equation.

Today, having a traditional gas-electric HVAC system is like cutting steak with a sword and being proud of yourself for having aging technology.

Thank you for bringing up the point about SEER and HSPF ratings.

avk
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Nice Video. Curious..Can any of the Mitsubishi systems be used with a gas furnace like the Daikin Fit?

albertlevet
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Appreciate your info about ducted systems. California, unfortunately hasn't committed to "Clean" energy until 2045. 2019 building code didn't prohibit the introduction of gas lines to new homes. Neither does California's 2022 triennial rule, again unfortunately. The CEC knows we're decarbonizing, but they don't have the guts to mandate cutting off the gas. This is why individual cities and counties have had to pass All Electric New Construction ordinances in the form of a Reach Code. And a lawsuit and court overturn has put those ordinances in limbo. We should be installing all electric and solar to help handle the extra electric and energy cost.

karlInSanDiego