Why is my electric Bill so High!!! Mitsubishi Mini Split Hyper Heat Review Part 4. Feb 2020 Bill

[SupahD]

I install these things for a living. There is one key thing that no installer mention on how to use the machine. Don’t turn them off at night. The amount of power used to maintain a homes temperature is small. The amount of power used to crank it on in the morning to reheat the home is huge. Think of an oven.

[КсенияШакирова-мг]

*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*

[TwoKaz]

Someone has already mentioned this in a previous comment, but it's worth repeating. If you have your heat set at 73, that's your problem. I use 1-18K mini split for cooling, and a 98% modulating gas furnace to heat a 2000 SF R20/R40 insulated 3 story home in climate zone 5. Winter gas bill is around $70 per month if I keep the heat set at 71. Wasn't feeling well last January and set the temp to 73 for a good portion of the month and my bill went to $160. That extra 2 degrees is a killer. Believe it or not.

[tremlo]

I have a hyper heat unit in my apartment and my January bill was high too. Evidently you’re supposed to “set and forget” with these and let the absence detection feature lower the room temp by a few degrees when no one’s around. Otherwise it has to ramp back up from a lower setback which kills the efficiency. Being used to a gas furnace, I was turning my thermostat down aggressively when I left, only to have the compressor crank up to a high speed when I returned a few hours later. Going forward I’m going to let it coast, which is when it’s most efficient. I’ll only turn it down/off when I leave for more than 12 hours.

[bbooger]

This doorbell music is scrambling whats left of my brain

[rnel]

Sorry- I watched the 8:00 video and have no idea what you are trying to convey. I installed 3 mini split exterior units and 12 indoor units so I have fairly good idea of how they behave.
I have a sense meter for service disconnect and emporia for the branches. Maybe that would help you. But please make a video short and to the point.

[ricbertsch]

We converted from all electric baseboard in Dec to 3 Mitsubishi Split Deluxe Wall Units for our 800 SQ rental. 2 Small, I believe 6, 000 btu in the bedroom and a larger in the living room. However, our electric bill has gone up for the 3 months since with KW per day usuage increasing. The temp between the previous year was roughly the same for 2 months and for the other month it was much warmer this year at an average oe 42 vs 32 last year. We have also been away from the home for the last 2 months with temp set at 65. Somewhat concerned since we are renters that something is wrong as prior to leaving twice using a Keuring our circuits popped which never happened previously and the unit beneath us who also converted over has had their electric bills go down.

[JoshAnderson-lvqw]

What is the cost per kw, sounds like you need to do the self power consumption test on you home. The 2 things I tell my customers 1) Is never run your heating below 68, mini-splits run on sensors and not timers for defrost. If the temp is below 68 indoors there not enough heat to get a good defrost for the outdoor unit. A timed defrost can be 1 cycle per hr . A sensor defrost can be 3-4 per hr. 2) mini-splits are not designed to be the only source of heating . It's best to set your mini-splits at 70 and your back up heat at 65.

[merlinbasics]

When sleeping, I use one thick down comforter, and I am toasty warm even if it is freezing cold (around 32F or 0C). You might also enjoy an electric blanket.

[jacobbarger]

It’s not supposed to be turning on and off much, they are meant to be running practically 24/7 to reduce power consumption. They use more power on start up then when they are just trying to hover around the set point.

[littlered]

Now, I don't know much about Hyper units for I have just begun my investigation. (building my last home, 720 sq feet, one story, and I am looking for a heating source). What I do know is a bit about insulation.. Here are some questions that need addressing before any comments can be made.. How many sq feet is your home? What is the footprint or foundation perimeter in linear feet? What style house is it, ie. cape, colonial, ranch etc? I think the most important question to ask and for you to address is what is the amount or depth in inches is the ceiling insulation in the upper most level. Houses built in the early 70's required an R19 between the ceiling rafters (6 inches deep). Today an R49 is code in zone 5 (I believe). Not only is R19 well below todays standards, the rafters are exposed to the element and are acting as a thermal bridge or a highway so-to-speak bringing not only winters cold air into the conditioned space but summers hot air. If you have a drop stairway leading to the attic make sure it is insulated properly. Take a trip into your attic and see what you have. A quick look will reveal if any insulation has been added. If you can see rafter tops, you need more. If you need more lay it down perpendicular to the rafters and you will eliminate the thermal bridging. It's imperative (if you have one of these) to build or purchase an attic pull down stair insulator box. OH! The last thing is- I've recently had Eversource, CT, through subcontractors insulate two of my homes; one was $3, 400 and the other was $8, 700. Both fully reimbursed by Eversource. Last but not least, if I may, please turn down the background music just a bit.  
Be well, Pete

[memsu]

Those Mitsubishi units will 100% heat down to -5 degrees F with no problems. You don't need hyper heat enabled until it gets that cold. I'd look into better insulation for your house. These units automatically adjust their output based on the conditions in your home. More insulation will hold heat better and your compressor can slow down more.

[brentspiteri]

Another thing worth checking could be that it’s low on refrigerant/freon.

If the pipe length has exceeded the pre charge length it may be short (low heat pressure).

Works checking the super heat etc.

[jboysmithcom]

My HVAC guy said pick a temperature and stick with it. The up and down will make it more expensive to run.

[fastback]

I think I read somewhere in here that you are turning the temp up & down a lot. That may be your problem! I have a different heat pump but if I would do that here is what happens. If you turn it down say at night. Then turn it back up 4 or 5 deg. mine would go into back up axullery heat mode and kick in electrical heat strips (just like a regular electric heater, making your meter spin faster than you can see!!!) until it catches up to the set temp. You are better off setting it at 70 or whatever and leaving it or just increasing it by 1 degree incraments untill you get it where you want it. That way you are only using the heat pump not the electric back up strips, If you have a meter that spins look at it when you do it both ways. hope this helps

[antonmarkin]

Hello from Ukraine. Not mini split but multi split. Because of multi zone capabilities and multiple connections. Each channel goes to separate room. I got the same looking Mitsubishi Electric 4 zone device but it has different name. Thank you for this video and have a nice day!

[steve]

240 last month in Eastern WA. 25 degree most of the month. Heating a 2400 sq ft house with a Mitsubishi Mini Split. Kept the house at 68 all month. My bill also includes water and sewer. I average 180 a month for am entire year.

[schieder]

Was wondering if you have an update after implementing some of these tips in the comments. I'm looking to put it a hyper heat unit and am trying to get an idea of what to expect for cost to run.

[jordansaudi]

*YES... my neighbor's uncle said the same!! It consumes more electricity*!!

[willrey]

Thanks for this video and Please let me know how is this units are drawn power a lot power . If you compared with your old heating system.