CAT6 CABLE RUN AND CAT6 WALL FISHING - HOW TO - QUICK & EASY!

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Welcome back to The Ultimate Tech Hub. On today's episode we are going to show you "How To Wire Drop 2 Cat6 Cables" using an Old School Method that will save you money! This Ethernet wire drop installation called "wall fishing" is the best and cheapest method to drop Cat6 or Cat5e wires into any room! This wire drop cost about $100 dollars in supplies. Of course you will need some tools. Below is the list of supplies and tools we used for this Cat6 install. And remember if you are not comfortable with working in your attic, just hire a professional low voltage installer. If you have any questions about this video please leave them in the comments down below. Thank you for being a part of The Ultimate Tech Hub Team and if you haven't Subscribed yet please do its free. And if you like this video give a thumbs up and share it. Thanks again for watching the Ultimate Tech Hub Channel! As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualified purchases.

Supplies:

Tools Needed:
Bolt & 12 foot String- Old School Wire Drop Method

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0:00:00 Introduction
0:01:15 Supplies Needed
0:02:04 Tools Needed
0:03:19 The Ethernet Wiring Plan
0:03:52 Clearing The Media Room
0:03:57 Accessing The Attic
0:04:03 Step 1: Double Cat6 Wire Drop Into Media Room
0:06:50 Step 2: Connect Cat6 Wires To Cat6 Wall Jack Plugs
0:10:50 Step 3: Wire Drop Cat6 Cables Into Network Panel
0:11:39 Old School Wire Drop Method Rules!
0:12:42 Step 4: Terminate The Cat6 wires Into RJ45 Connectors
0:13:26 Patreon Support
0:13:40 Final Thoughts
0:14:07 Finished!

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I've been wanting to do this for my man cave for so long and never got to it, after watching this I want to do it asap.

ghostvardy
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only thing i would change is to add a single gang low voltage mounting bracket to make this a more perfect job. It's only an extra $1.50 and you wont need to drill holes in the drywall and use the little plastics for the screws.

birdieskills
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Having spent a lot of time in my own attic doing the same type of job as you did. I always carried a knee board to span the rafters. It makes the work much easier and you don't have to worry about keeping your balance on top of 2 by 4's. Just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood large enough to cover a span of two joists. Another remedy is never work in a attic that is over 90 degrees. Between sweat running into your eyes and the insulation sticking to your skin, it can make it quite miserable to work around. Plan your attic work at after 10:00PM and finish before 8:00AM. to beat the heat.

markjensen
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This is an okay “weekend warrior” type install.. Pro tip: your electric recepticle will always be on a stud. Use the stud and install the cables/low voltage ring on the opposite side of the stud. Use an old work box, or Low Voltage ring.. do not screw the pate to the wall. Also, fish sticks/fish tape can come in handy for many walls.

RC-ippx
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A few suggestions from a low voltage installer. Safety first. Wear a dust mask when in the attic or crawl space as you never know what is floating around. For a more professional job, a low-Voltage old work bracket should always be used, to attach the wall plate too, not a hole and drywall anchors. After running the wires, stuff insulation in the holes to act as a fire block per National Electrical Code. Low voltage wires should be run through the rafters/ truss framing and not laid direct on the ceiling or insulation and supported every 4 to 5 feet. I always terminate each end of the run into RJ45 keystone jacks or a patch panel and never use RJ45 plugs.

ronaldnaeyaert
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An easy and very accurate way to locate exactly where you need to drop the line through the wall is to use a very small diameter wire on a drill. This would be something like the fine wire that used to keep insulation batting in place. Those are easily obtain at any big box store. Take and chuck the wire into a drill and drill up the ceiling adjacent to the location where you want to have the drop. Leave the wire up there and then go into the attic and find the wire. Patching the very small diameter hole that the wire makes is very easy and it will not be noticed. You can also use a stud finder to locate the space between the studs before you drill up with that wire. This ensures that you won’t hit a stud on the way down. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time you need to stay in a hot attic. Great video!

capti
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You got extremely lucky finding the wire drop inside the wall space. Everytime I run a wire, a run a chase wire with it. Makes it very easy in case you want to drop TV/Cable coax. Also I lablel both ends of each wire, then draft out a schematic for final termination to a switch or router.

avflyguy
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Would recommend to use a cut in ring for the faceplate so the machine screws have a proper mount, also you dont need to guess on the size, just trace the ring with a pencil to get your dimensions. Also makes a rectangular hole so you can get your hand inside the wall to grab the wires.

Lewdacris
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My personal preference is to not use drywall mounting screws, instead, I would use a low-voltage mounting bracket. It's much cleaner, sturdier, and allows for better access behind the drywall.

PaulJosephdeWerk
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Most important thing that isn't repeated in these comments is the importance of suspending bundles. You want to mount the bundles up beside the truss members, not on the bottom to avoid them being bumped, snagged, etc. This also makes them much more pleasant to work around for you or any contractors (HVAC, Insulation, etc) that may have to work up there. A cheap and easy method is to go to homedepot and buy a few bags of 1" mounting bases, a couple bags of 4" max diameter cable ties and a few boxes of zinc #8x1.5" wood screws. The bases have adhesive backing, stick them to the sides of your joists with the openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock, run a fastener in them, cable tie goes tail up so that when you fasten them you pull the tail down.

A few words of advice, cable ties are not for lashing things down to weather a hurricane. The tie only needs to be tight enough that the bundle is free of separation, as soon as the tie is contacting the entire bundle circumference you can stop tightening. Use a cable tie torque gun like the Panduit GTS-E or the cheap IDEAL version and set it to torque setting 0-3. I like to bore diagonal paths through the joists of my trusses to minimize the amount of low hanging looms.

tactical-bucket
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That insulation is amazing. Just moved into our house last year. You can see the studs in attic since there is almost no insulation at all. About to roll out rolls of R30.

syllinx
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I wish I lived in houses like this. Every example of network wire dropping are from newer builder grade suburbs type housing like this. I have lived in multiple states in multiple houses and new lived in anything like this. My current house was built in 1900 and does not have an attic like this (the attic is huge and has original hardwood floors in most of it) and is multi-story. Plus there is no drywall, it is all plaster and lathe boards. And the modem has to stay in the basement (made of crumbly field stone) so yeah... pulling for my house is going to be way more involved than these type of drops... But either way, thanks for sharing and I hope it was helpful for many folks :)

The_Bearded_Lady
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I appreciate the video! I’m a new telecom apprentice in the union and I’ve been looking at your videos, I’m not the brightest so I need explanations I can go back over and look at. These videos are great! Keep it up.

fatseip
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I have been running patch cables between points. I used the female pass throughs that snaps into the keystone wall plate. Saves me from having to terminate the cables. There is always extra cable that way but you can tie that up in the attic and make it look better. Saves me time and it is easier.

jefferysmith
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Everyone whos new to this kind of thing is thinking "where do I drill" and you didn't explain that very well. You just said you had to drill down a couple 2x4's. I think you should've gone over this a little more, otherwise excellent video!

ModsandHacks
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I am Belkin Certified in the 90s. Had several tools like Cross Bows and remote control cars that we used to run guide wires.

thepoliticalstartrek
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I just needed to know about installing the wall jack but I watched the whole video anyways. Great job!

christinawuvly
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Great video for the basics...but suggestion: label the cables in the closet so you know where they go if you ever have a problem or need to trace it back to another part of the house. Also, did you flat run the cables in attic across the 'attic floor' or did you sink them / protect them from being stepped on in any future attic visits?

roadrunr
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Cool to see this done in reverse (running cable in a finished home or as you say "wall fishing"). I just did all the low voltage/CAT6/CAT5e wiring for an entire Habitat For Humanity apartment project in Philly.

DarmokAtTanagra
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I would recommend using low voltage frames for mounting the faceplate. If you're always careful, not accident prone, or don't have kids, then this works great. But low voltage frames really help keeping everything secure, and prevent a lot of potential drywall patches.

duckbilldaniel