This has been a pain in my butt! Learning more about our bandsaw mill…

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[lumbercapitallogyard]

We talked to Woodmizer and they said that the blades shouldn’t be snapping like that. After showing them some pictures of where the blades have been snapping, I’ll let you know what they say.

[bobblack]

Red hair! The eyes, the eyes, the WOW!❤

[TheYeti]

Get a farm fuel tank with transfer pump & long hose w/nozzle that can be locked up . Check blade temp on occasion w/digital thermometer . PM : Surveillance .

[johnaddis]

I have to agree with a lot of the commentators the welds were not annealed properly, Years ago in the machine shop we welded the metal cutting blades ourselves, when they were not welded and annealed properly they would break every time. Joe Maine in Georgia makes Wood miser blades for many band saws including the LT 70 series. And as others said contact Wood Miser to inspect your saw in case there are other problems, although I do feel the problem is bad welds. Good Luck hope the problem is solved soon... John Toccoa GA

[twistedlimb]

Amazon has sight glass kits and fuel level caps to keep an eye on tank levels.

[xyzct]

Keep a detailed logbook with as much detail as possible: Number of cuts between sharpenings; number of sharpenings; tension on each install; type of wood cut; ... anything you can think of. That is DATA. Then discussing the data with the manufacturer can help them help you.

[WelderPaul]

Despits setbacks i hope you have a great day and enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend.

[anooseholay]

We’ve sawn for a lot of years with a Wood-Mizer. The first thing you want to check is the blade tension. Make sure it is running high enough. These blades are designed with a very high breaking strength. Next, make sure your blades are not running against the back of the roller guides. They should be 1/16-1/8” off the roller guide even when cutting. It sounds like you’ve got stress cracks. Could be a bad batch of blades but doubtful.

You saw mostly hemlock so blade cleaning/lube should not be an issue but if you’re into pine or fir with a lot more sap, you’ll want to run your cleaning solution higher. We have the lube mizer which I can’t recommend highly enough over a drip system. Also, mix Dawn dish washing detergent in with your water. It’s incredible at cleaning pitch off the blades.

It’s possible you may be crowding the blade too much but usually that will show up when you hit a knot with the blade diving into the cut.

[independentthinker]

May be a temper problem on the weld. Something to think about, if it's not tempered right it can't handle flexing as much

[georgerrust]

Hey Em,
Your eye's came on strong in the opening. Reminded me of "Village of the Damned", of 1956 vintage

[dlfabrications]

The blade snapping problem is due to improperly annealed splice joint. When you join the blade together and send an electric current into it, it welds the metal together. When this happens the blade gets cherry red. You then let cool down. After it is cooled down you bring it back to a dull red for 5 to 10 seconds and let cool down (this is annealing). It sound like they are not annealing the blades properly ( joint is too brittal). I do not if this helps or not but I would run the tension at it normal recommended setting.😊

[desertdweller]

Prayers to your customer, that's a painful injury.
Great incitful video, woodmizer needs to check this out.
God Bless folks.

[stomp]

Welds are brittle. They need to be tempered/drawn back after welding. The finished weld needs to be heated to a light orange color and left to cool to room temp before filing smooth. You probably know this.

[Kwhopperfan]

Oh and as for the fuel issues I’d get a fuel cart or mount a transfer tank to a skid or pallet and get extension lines. If woodmizer says distance or height to draw fuel is an issue then just add an inline 12 volt chugger pump powered when the key is on. 👍🏼

[robkeller]

Emerald, you do so well, it will only get better. Much love

[BobMongiello]

The reason blades break on band saws its because of the bearings that guide the blade are bad just replace them and the baldes will last a long time .. It was happening to my metal band saw and I found a video on line that showed how to replace them and it worked .

[mcksysar]

4:01 Wow! Those bicep veins are very noticeable!

[marcsorensen]

when i fill the lt70 i leave the tank on top and lower the saw head to the deck and stand on a 6ft ladder to avoid sawdust. also i run at 80psi and rarely get failures.

[foolishwatcher]

Hi Em, regarding the breaking blades: Something I noticed in your videos with the LT70 (I didn't see that with the 40), is that the entire construction, but especially the "milling head" or "bridge" (I don't know how it's called properly) is shaking very noticeable when the head is moving up and down and when the logs are turned on the bed. Take a look at the video about the hydraulics from a month ago between 4:30 and 7:20. Since the "bridge" is supported only on one side, there might be considerable stress fluctuations in the construction and thus also in the tightened saw blade during that movement. This would making it break at the welding point, which is probably the weakest point, very logical.
In the same video at 4:30, when you turned it off, there is a screaching sound, like something is running without proper lubrication.

[CallardAndBowser]

I don't like how the LT70 bounces up and down and jiggles around because of the weight of the diesel motor.
I wonder if it creates extra tension on the blade and that's what is making them break sooner?
I would love to see an all electric version of the LT woodmill. It would be great to eliminate all that weight from the motor
and fuel tank. And less maintenance too and fuel savings.