These Common Cold Start Mistakes Are Killing Your Car Engine!

Many engines prematurely die because drivers get cold start ups wrong. Avoid common errors & understand why cold car starts are important & what is happening inside your engine during this time of great stress.

Ever wondered what happens to your engine during a cold start and why it’s so hard on your car? In this video, we explore the science behind cold starts, the impact on your engine, and the steps you can take to minimize wear and tear, especially in colder months.

What does it mean to Cold Start a Car? Are cold engine starts really that bad? How Do cold starts cause more damage than a warm engine?

A cold start happens when you start your car after the engine has been sitting idle for hours, typically overnight.

During this time, engine oil settles, leaving critical components without immediate lubrication. Starting the car requires more effort, and the engine operates under higher stress until it warms up and the oil circulates fully.

Why Are Cold Starts Hard on Your Engine?
Increased Friction: Engine oil thickens at low temperatures, making it harder to flow and lubricate moving parts. This causes additional friction and wear on vital components.

Higher Fuel Use: Cold starts require a richer fuel mixture to get the engine running, which can lead to carbon buildup in the long term.

Stress on Battery: Batteries lose efficiency in cold weather, meaning your starter motor works harder to crank the engine.

Condensation Risk: Cold weather can lead to condensation inside the engine or exhaust system, potentially causing corrosion or dilution of engine oil.

*How to Minimize Wear During Cold Starts*

Use the Right Oil: Ensure your car has the correct oil viscosity for your climate. Modern synthetic oils are designed to flow better in low temperatures.

Warm Up Smartly: Idling isn’t always the best solution. Instead, start the car, let it run briefly, and drive gently to allow the engine to warm up naturally.
Maintain Your Battery: A weak battery struggles in cold conditions, so test and replace it if necessary before winter arrives.

Avoid Short Trips: Frequent short trips don’t allow the engine to reach its optimal temperature, increasing wear and inefficiency. Combine trips when possible.

The Bottom Line

Cold starts are an unavoidable part of driving, especially in winter, but understanding their impact can help you reduce engine wear and prolong your car’s life. Regular maintenance, thoughtful preparation, and good driving habits go a long way in mitigating the effects of cold weather.

Join the Discussion!
How do you prepare your car for winter? Do you use any special tricks to protect your engine during cold starts? Let us know in the comments below. Your tips might help someone else this season!

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Thanks for watching, and we’ll see you in the next video!

#ColdStart #EngineCare #WinterCarTips #CarMaintenance #EngineWear #ColdWeatherDriving

Please check that tips and suggestions are legal in your area and region, as this will vary and traffic laws are always changing. Check a local mechanic to verify any mods and upgrades would be legal and suitable for your vehicle.

[myfavorites]

Main thing use full synthetic oil and change regularly,

[andrewstones]

I think there is a law of diminishing returns beyond the basics, changing the oil frequently and being gentle with the engine while it’s warming up are the absolute basics for anyone who wants to get long life from an engine.

[flybobbie]

My car manual says drive off soon as you start. Probably to reduce emissions. Old Haynes manual for Humber Sceptre had a page about starting. The initial tick over was 1500 rpm. It also said not wait to warm engine but move off as they found more wear idling than having a load on the piston. Keep a positive load on the piston created less wear.

[svenschwingel]

It's not only cold starts but especially the warm-up period that follows after the cold start.

If you manage to avoid unnecessary engine load (as in cylinder pressure, not necessarily revs) up to the point of operating temperature, you can minimize cold engine wear.

[jim-bob-outdoors]

On my turbo diesel pickup, I start it up and let it run while I am doing my seatbelt, mirrors, heater controls etc. So maybe 10-20 seconds. Then drive off gently keeping around 2K revs until its warmed up properly.

[Hunspikey]

BMW 318D here (N47 engine) at over 320k kilometres driven, without any issue. I change the oil every 8k kms. Replaced the timing chain and the rod bearings, main bearings @ 275k km. Changed the injectors just 3 days ago since I heard them starting to make very soft crackling noise. But I think replacement at 320k kms is very good indeed. Turbo is still the original. My startup routine goes like this : ignition, wait till the pre-heating happens, then I push start. Im starting with the clutch being pushed (manual gearbox) since it eases off the double weight clutch's spring, in return loads a little the main crankshaft's positioning bearing, but I think it's still the better solution. When the engine revs up I wait 20-30 second to get the rpm down, this means the very early heat up of the pistons already happened. Along with a little spooling and warming up of the turbocharger. Exhaust also gets considerably warmer after the 30 seconds, if you don't believe me just try to touch it 😂. Normally exhaust gases are instantly like 300-400 Celsius hot which work on every part immediately after start. So after the very first 30 secs I start parking out, using under 1200rpm range. I need to do an Y 360 degree so it takes like another 30 seconds. Then off I go in first gear at exactly 1300 rpm, this is the very first street which is around 300 meters long. Then I go further progressively using 2nd and 3rd gear but never rev above 1600 and I strick using the slightest acceleration to avoid turbo spool. After the initial 1.5 km I start using the 4th gear, reaching city speed limits. Beyond this Im using 1300-1800 rpm range with very modest acceleration until the oil temp gauge shows 75 Celsius. Then I start using rpm ranges up until 2000rpm, and medium acceleration. When oil reaches 100C finally (usually after 20 km distance), I start to rev till 2500, and do decent acceleration. And finally the very last stage, after another 5 km with 100C oil, I start to use the full rpm range (I mean the reasonable range) which is 1300 - 4000 rpm, and often do full throttle. Even if I drive slowly I shift at 2500rpm. Many owner kills his diesel by using only the low rpm range (under 2k). I know that it is funny to push the pedal at 1300 rpm and feel the turbo kick in and feel the immersing power waking up. But mind me: it is the second main reason why your engine won't last. Bearings hate low rpm torque! Always shift back! Accel only from 2k flat out. And you are very safe to use 3k - 4k rpm range if you are only accelerating and not traveling at that rpm. Traveling (anything lasting over 5 mins) must happen under 3k rpm otherwise you will overheat your components, but that is over 150kmh in 6th gear anyway so where would you do that? 😅

So to sum up, start out after 30 sec be very gentle, but keep warming her up, and when she's warm use her dynamically, don't drive like a grandpa.

Last but not least : always plan you cool off periods. Drive slow in the last 5kms! No race no 4k rpm, no flat out here. Just progressively get slower and slower allowing the components to cool back! Once you arrived idle for 30secs then shut off the engine. You turbo will be with you like mine for at least 300kms if you do this.

[mmone]

Thanks so much for sharing Very informative. I always let my vehicles warm up to reduce engine wear.

[Misterwhistle]

I watched a few of your videos with you harping on not letting your engine warm up but just gently drive it keeping your rpm’s low. It is obvious that you are not from a cold climate. At -35c or colder with an automatic transmission you don’t move until engine rpm’s are at least 2500. The transmission, differentials, wheel bearings all are stiff as hell. As for condensation in the exhaust, even on the highway the tail pipe is spinning drops of moisture. My rule of thumb is until the temperature gauge move I don’t go anywhere. 55 years of driving and I have yet to replace a vehicle because of a bad motor.

[billcollins]

I've always had much the same habits when starting my car from cold (I currently drive a petrol car). I start the car and let it idle for a minute, then drive off but on a light throttle and only at about 2000rpm initially, gradually increasing things as the engine warms up. 40 years ago when I had my first cars, a mechanic told me exactly what you're saying here, not to rev the engine hard when its cold and to drive reasonably gently until the engine warms up.

[willarddunn]

when iI lived in Iowa 60 years ago there were cooling syestem heaters, ' dip stick heaters, and battery heaters to keep the engine warm in subzero tempatures.

[jonspivey]

Vw t4 2.5tdi owned from new: start without glowplug heat and drive immediately. Oil change every 10000 miles. Now done 335000 miles.

[sandor]

In Canada, where we truly know what a 'cold start' is (-40 C) almost every vehicle has a electrical plug-in block heater and a remote starter. It is quite common at anything below -10 C for people (including me) to remote start the car from the comfort of your home and let it run for 10-15 minutes (this is also before I even unplug the block heater). This makes the interior much more comfortable, makes scraping the ice and snow off the windshield easier, and ensures it will stay clear when you start driving. I had a 1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Turbo (really a Mitsubishi Eclipse) for 14 years, drove it year round, remote started it every morning all winter. Only work I did on it in that period other than routine maintenace was replace the battery (which is also routine). I am currently still driving my 2011 F150 3.5 Ecoboost (twin turbo). In 13.5 years of ownership, I have just replaced the battery last week and one shock absorber that leaked oil. Warming up your vehicle after starting, at least until the RPM's drop to normal idle, does not harm your vehicle and prevents a lot of wear and tear. I realize the owners manuals say to start driving right away. You can't do that at even -10C. Their advice has more to do with emissions and selling you a new car in five years when your warranty has run out. (Also why vehicles have Auto Start/Stop - it's not for YOUR benefit).

What helps even more to prolong engine and starter life, when you can, is to turn the ignition to the 'ON' position for a few seconds before engaging the starter. This pressurizes the fuel system so the engine gets fuel immediately and the starter doesn't crank a dry cold engine so much before it fires up. It also energizes all the electrical circuits and reduces the effect of startup fluctuation in voltage etc. I had a 1988 Mustang 5.0 - if I didn't turn the ignition to ON for 10 seconds or so, it would crank forever before starting, if it started at all on the first attempt. Most diesel owners know they have glow plugs, and turn the ignition to ON until the light goes out (I had a diesel Peugeot 106). This also pressurizes the fuel system, especially important in diesels. (I am amazed at how many diesel owners don't know how to start their vehicles, but that's another story).

[naction]

In reality as long as you’re not redlining or revving hard until the oil gets up to temp you’re fine. No need to “let the car idle” for a few minutes, at that point you’re just wasting gas. It’s probably more important to follow a strict and frequent oil change interval.

[hoost]

If the ambient temperature is 35° or below, I usually give my car a warmup of 3-5 minutes before taking off, then lightly load it. My car is a hybrid and runs a full synthetic 0W20. Have gone over 160k and no oil consumption ( maybe a quart or so a long time ago ). Currently running Lubrication Engineers full synthetic, the best oil you never heard of😊

[esenel]

Usual method for a cold winter start for me is to set heat to high, fan to off, start engine turn on lights, and any electric heating that the car has, which increases the load on the engine a little. Leave it running while you remove snow/ice from the windows. And drive off while turning the fan on at mimium, and have it heat only the windshield at first. And as the temperature of the engine starts to move up rapidly from driving, turn the fan higher until you get to a comfortable point.
This just allows the water in the short loop to warm up quickly without the heating system cooling slightly warmer water back to cold again, and to give you a decent bit of heat in the system to drive off with.
Most people start the car, turn the heat up, turn the fan way up, and the water just doesn't even get the chance to warm up while idling.
If there's no chance of fogging up you can keep the heating set to cold to reduce the amount of water circulating and help heat the engine up even faster.

[hisownman]

Awesome. Thanks a lot for such informative content.

I was looking for a video of this sort but never found one. Your channel has come to the rescue.

[kebabaluba]

As a rule i let engine idle for about 20-30 seconds before i drive off, cold start that is. My Volvo S60 rev high for about 20 sec when it`s started cold, i let the revs drop before driving off. This 20 year old car have been a reliable car for 15 years i`ve had it.

[redbarchetta]

Oil pressure. I have a remote starter on my MGB and roll the engine over a few cranks before firing the engine up. Saves bearings. Also, prefill your oil filter before installation, if you can that is.

[scotty]

I use good quality correct grade oil in my cars and pull off straight away from cold and drive them under 2K rpm (Without laboring!) Until they are up to temperature on the gauge, Then i happily give them some welly! Also never start a cold engine and just let it idle until warm especially diesels, The warm up procedure should be at min 1500 rpm, Low idle cold and the piston rings dig in to the bores!

[VultureXGaminG]

Im glad I got a daily beater for my weekend car, I normally redline it to get it warmer ahaha. Its a beater 03 Renault Clio