Building an 8000 RPM Capable 302 for my F100 Pt. 1 Modifying The STOCK BLOCK!

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[Thecraig]

To update everyone we decided to run the ARP main bolts supplied with the girdle instead of re line honing for the studs. We just used the studs for mock up to see if it would work better. So yes it is line honed for the proper hardware. You all are correct and I am aware it would need to be line honed for the studs.

[galaxiexl]

Personally, I've never seen a stock block 302 revs to 8 grand that didn't puke its guts all over the track. I saw one once come really close to killing people when it blew up. It blew the intake into pieces that went flying into the stands. It was a very violent death of a stock block 302, When it blew, it went off with so much force it looked like the car's hood had been split in about 4 of 6 different places as the intake left the engine. A piece of the engine and trans blew through the firewall and barely missed the driver. If you do rev it that high, put a diaper on it so if it does go BOOM it could save your or someone else life

[StoutMotorsports]

I really dig your approach on fine tuning the block to help with cracking, im definitely no professional I'm just passing what I learned to maybe help you as well along with what you're doing. I've seen alot of these blocks split horizontally front to back due to harmonics and the front casting of the block being very thin behind the timing cover, take a look at a aftermarket 4.125 bore block and notice how thick that area is. You're killing it man, I'm building a nice 393w currently. I love seeing the younger generation like myself doing work like this themselves, you can't be a professional if you can't do it yourself.

[dennisrobinson]

How is this engine doing? We were just talking about we don't hear many 5.0 stock blocks going past 6500 reliably, but the old 289's you'd hear stories of 8000 and 9000 rpm. It would be cool to make 500-550HP naturally aspirated on a stock block something that can wind out to a little past 8000 rpm.

[joeidaho]

I"ve got the same book you have ....How To Rebuild the Small Block Ford. Good basic book....and probably applies to your engine more than mine....as I have a 1992 roller efi. The book applies more to carbureted engines.

[radders]

Keep doing what you do Craig .. the internet always has an opinion! there is no tone in text so some comments may come across negative.. I think most of the viewers want to see you do good things 👍 we all want to see the truck ripping through the gears 😎

[austinsims]

You definitely should use plastigage to check the clearance on the crank bearing

[curthall]

Wow, Big Cam! Street Manners (under 4000) around Town are going to be Interesting! Should be Fun! lol Got to love it!

[micahweston]

Saw your comments on Facebook man. Don’t let people get you down. I have loved watching your videos, and just because you do it different then others doesn’t make it wrong. That is always the case, things change, and if you don’t try things you never learn. Keep up the great videos!

[Richard]

When you put it back together, leave the thrust bearing cap loose. Then slide the crank from front to rear ( as if to check crank end play ) . This will seat the bearing perfectly. Then tighten the cap down to correct torque. Then check end play. This will give you the most accurate reading.

[donaldleavy]

There sure area lot of expert mechanics out there . This guy is one of the best yet..

[fataxe]

No it is stress. It's always stress that causes parts to fail.

Harmonics cause vibration, but vibrations cause stress in Materials. The real problem with harmonics is it causes a cyclic stress combined with the normal loading that can be enough to cause too much stress and then everything gives up.

The reason you debur a block is because you're eliminating the stress risers. You can see the difference in strain in exaggerated models between a fillet and a sharp corner easily. The other problem with a sharp corner is not only is it a stress concentration, but they serve as excellent crack propogation points.

If you really want to eliminate the chance for stress risers you would polish the entire surface or shot peen it for that good, hard, surface condition.

Cast iron is actually one of the best materials for harmonics, that's why it's used in machine tools, but it's brittle and doesn't like shock loads. Engines are full of shock loads, which is why everyone goes to forged internals made from billets.

[canyouhelpmeplease]

I hope you have had the main caps line honed to make up for distortion of using studs instead of bolts. Same goes for heads studs, should be honed with studs holding down torque plate.

[jameshood]

You should always store your cranks standing up, if you're gonna install it soon then laying down is okay but over time they can warp laying down

[fixitshop]

Perfect timing, I just started rebuilding my first motor the other day, I have a 289 that I stripped down to a short block, it’s a ford remanufactured motor that has already been bored 30 over. I’m going to get a new B303 cam, lifters, valve springs, timing chain, and I’m just going to through some 302 heads that we have on there. I don’t think I’m going to take the crank and pistons out because I don’t have the money to get a new crank and pistons and to send it to a machine shop, but I think it will do good for what it is

[rdspeedfab]

Hope you got it line honed! Studs will shift the thin wall casting of a SBF. Looks like it’ll be a really nice build.

[eppyschopshop]

Shouldn't you have done that grinding before the machine shop? Wouldn't there be derbies in there now?

[hobronco]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who talks to their engine lol

[greasemonkeygarage]

Those 4holes in the center of the valley it’s best to put some up right pipes in them to reduce wind age for high rpms.

[roosterable]

Looking good, and everyone of us learns our own way, nothing like doing that, just you are using $$ money parts keep up the good work fella o and little lose on tolerance is a happy engine yes 👍