HOW DO I FIX ALL THESE GELCOAT CRACKS FOR PAINTING??

VIEWER SUBMISSION: Although this kind of gelcoat damage looks intimidating, it's actually pretty typical and not difficult to fix :-) I think the hardest part about tackling a surface like this is getting over the mental hurdle (also navigating all the material options to make sure these cracks don't ever come back!!)

1 versus 2 part paints? What type of fiberglass to use? What resin to use? Does fairing material make much of a difference?

Short answer is that all these questions are important and the approach to take will vary from project to project based on a number of factors ;-)

Hopefully this info makes your project more approachable!!

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[boatworkstoday]

I've had a few folks ask for links to the specific materials mentioned in this video, here ya go!

Hope this helps!

[UrbanOasisMarina]

Great format. Great content (as usual). Thanks for keeping the content coming considering all you have going on.

[MikeAndreRIch]

If it weren’t for this channel my project would not be where it is!

Thanks

[Dan-cyti]

Thanks Andy. I’ve been following you for years, and I’m glad to see you going, your work is deeply appreciated

[KeithCarmichaelInFL]

Thank you for this! I am pretty confident in automotive painting/bodywork, but not in marine. Your videos really help me bridge that knowledge gap!

[davetowz]

Good to see you back into diy coverage!

[livingforsail]

Thanks Andy. Great information here that I will definitely be coming back to on my project!

[stevelacher]

Love your videos.

I don't have a boat, but I am helping my son restore an older car with a fiber glass body. (A 1971 Saab Sonett.) There is not much instruction out there for cars. I just really find your approach helpful and clear. Thanks.

[jonolavbjrndal]

Thanks! Really nice explanation of the problem.

[markgallagher]

Great explanation, Andy. I used Total Tread on my home built skiff. I can’t remember if I put on 2 or 3 coats but after a year of light use it seems to be loosing grip already. I also used Wet edge for the hull and with the humidity here in Florida and we were getting a lot of rain at the time, I would have to wait 3 or 4 days for the paint to cure enough to sand.The paint came out great, but if you’re in a humid area it may take a while to build up coats. I rolled it on very thin as the instructions said.

[crawford]

Perfect, I have been waiting for this.

[melvinrawlings]

Great content. I just love this channel. Much love from Maryland❤❤❤.

[richardhoughton]

Unwell or not this is a wonderful instructional video.Thank you 🙏

[jpByl]

I had to deal with exactly the same cracks! Sanding down the gelcoat and laying up new csm and finishing it is a lot of work.. I took a different approach which has worked well! Pressure wash/clean the surface thoroughly first. Chips might come flying off; these spots need to be filled obviously. Sand the surface and paint with a well thinned epoxy primer. Smoothen and prime again and finish with a 2comp paint system. So far this has lasted for 4 years and still looks great! Good luck whichever method you choose!

[pinnedit]

This is the perfect video! The entire top side of my 88 Wellcraft has this cracking .

[stephenwieczorek]

Great video Andy, I’m still struggling with weather or not to paint or gel. My project is not large but it is a whole 18’ boat that I am redoing. Time will tell. Great video!

[rickpyne]

Hi there, I hope your shoulder is on the mend and thanks for your very informative videos. Please keep them coming.
With regard to Nonslip finishes, I have always worried about having to sand the grit particles by sanding when repairs have to be made. allot of effort.
I have been using sugar crystals to provide the Nonskid texture. Firstly a coat of two-pot then broadcast the sugar while still wet, once hardened another layer of two-pot as top coat. Once thoroughly dried a light sand to knock of the sharp edges of sugar then a thorough wash to get rid of the sugar. This leaves a crater like surface that gives good traction, like little suckers, with no foreign material in the finished surface. Very cheap, easy to repair, and won't wear out your pants. Give it a try I would like to hear your comments....

[johnmac]

Why didn’t I find your channel sooner?!? Just in time though… I’m about to paint my dad’s old wayfarer, she had thermal crazing and gel coat cracking similar to the feature in this video. I took a 80 grit flap wheel on the grinder to it and got rid. Layered up with x2 gsm and poly resin and filler to fair it out, with the intention of gel coating to finish. I got distracted by a cheap purchase of a laser dinghy that had a crappy deck, which I sorted out and gel coated… never again will I try that 😂 wow.. it worked but it was stressful.
So, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[Heiditelevision]

Great video as always.

Just a small nuance if I may -- what product to use to finish off the kind of gelcoat cracking shown here depends on whether the surface is going to be sitting continually (or long term) in water. I am thinking here specifically about boat bottoms,

Gelcoat can withstand long term water immersion. Many paints cannot, whether they are one part polyurethene or two part catalyst-type paints (antifouling paint being the exception, of course).

The point being....READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for the product you intend to use.

I have used one part paints for the bottoms of dinghies with no problems, but those boats are always pulled out of the water after use. Many two part paints warn about long term immersion (even multiple day immersion).

[sailingcacique]

Great video as usual, thanks. I think maybe you should mention that you can't use 2 pack paint on top of 1 pack, so if the existing non slip is one pack you have to stick with that. Fair winds.