Failure! RV Surge Protector Misunderstanding! Is Your RV Surge Protector Protecting You? AllAboutRVs

Are you sure your RV is truly protected? In this video, I dive into the world of RV surge protectors and uncover some common misconceptions that many RVers might not be aware of. You might think you're covered, but do you know what kind of protection your device actually offers?
I’ll break down the differences between basic surge protectors, Electrical Management Systems (EMS), and Emergency Power Off (EPO) systems. Many RVers misunderstand the "surge" part, thinking it's all they need for protection, but there’s much more to consider if you want to safeguard your RV's electrical system fully.
Plus, we’ll discuss the often-overlooked hot skin condition that could pose a risk even with all these protections in place. Understanding your options and knowing what to look for can be the difference between a safe, enjoyable RV experience and a potential electrical disaster.

Power WatchDog.
Autoformer Voltage Booster
Surge Module Replacement

NRVTA RV Maintenance and Repair Course:



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[AllAboutRVs]

I hope this info helps if you are looking for the links you can find them here.
Power WatchDog.
Autoformer Voltage Booster
Surge Module Replacement

[chrisnwilm]

Our SuregeGuard hardwired with the screen has been a great unit. The instant read outs of line voltage is what I like.

[stevertherver]

Thank you Jared for all you do for the RV'ING community!!

[randalwilliams]

I had the Progressive Industries unit hard wired into the RV when I bought it. I haven’t regretted it! No issues so far 🙏

[calledtojourney]

We too prefer the hardwired Power Watchdog EPO and also carry a replacement surge module. However, you MUST use a bonded ground-neutral plug when connecting a generator to the EPO or else it won't pass power through.

[TheBuddy]

Thanks for watching out for your viewers. It is greatly appreciated

[XLSLife]

I've had a few parks where my autoformer was a godsend and one where without it, the voltage was low enough my EMS was cutting power whenever an adjacent RV's AC would kick on. Even just the 2% boost I get at standby is nice if the park voltage isn't already over 120, it gives my AC just a little bit of a boost.

It's also really helpful when I'm moochdocking at friends' or family's and running off an extension cord. I have to be careful about the amps I'm drawing since it'll increase that, but it really helps counteract the voltage drop from those long 12 (or sometimes 14) gauge extension cords.

(Right now, visiting my parents, I've got over 100' of cord including my RV power cord and I lose several volts over the length of that. The autoformer gets me back most of those volts, at the expense of an extra 2% or 10% amperage, depending on the mode. My AC certainly appreciates the extra voltage in this heat.)

[deandennis]

Well done. The only issue I have with everything you said is you never touched on the disadvatage of an onboard surge protector. If it takes a lightening hit or surge that kills it, you are without electricity until you either replace it completely or rewire around it. When using an external surge protector and it takes a hit, you can always unplug it, and just plug it in directly to restore power. Admittedly pros and cons to weigh out, but it's why I chose external. I'm still protected and can be back up and running again quickly.

[XLSLife]

I just picked up the new Gen 2 Watchdog after my last surge protector got water inside and the contactor died. Having the wifi connection so I can monitor and get alerts remotely is very nice. As a bonus, I was able to find a matching replacement contactor for the old one, so now I have a backup surge protector.

[poncho]

Additional safety recommendation would be to first test pedestal for proper wiring: Poke the NCVT into the tall neutral slot (no blink or beep), then the ground hole (no blink or beep) and finally the shorter hot slot (should blink and beep). It won’t tell you the exact voltage of the outlet like a voltmeter, but it will confirm if the polarity is correct and tell you if the ground connection has been floated and electrified by another RV with a short in its own wiring.

Step 2: AFTER step 1 confirms Pedestal outlet is safely wired, test for hot skin voltage. ALWAYS TEST FROM OUTSIDE THE VAN
A. Multimeter (best method)- Set meter to test voltage, with pedestal outlet connected to van / RV connect black lead to pedestal bare metal or bolt and red lead to bare metal such as trailer hitch or lug nut.
If voltage more than 2-3 volts is detected there is a dangerous hot skin.

B. NCVT Method. Less sensitive but adequate.
Confirm NCVT working. Standing outside on ground and fully griping NCVT around palm, test metal for voltage. There should be none.

[mattkaminski]

Great video. We also use the Power Watchdog 50a hardwired version. It's been a great unit; although, our first one did have a failure where it would show a neutral line error. Hugh's replaced it, promptly. We also carry a spare surge module.

[Capt-John-T-Moore]

Great video as always. I go one step further. I turn my main distribution box breaker off right before fore connecting to our power watchdog. I then turn on pedestal breaker then on flip the main breaker in Rv

[cnjsharp]

Another very good video. Great advice and logically presented. 😊

[RVcampingandAdventures]

This was a fantastic video, great examples and information! I’ve had a hot skin problem before and it isn’t fun, and I also used the little volt detector to help track it down. Great job, Jared

[the-papaw]

Just happened to me last week. I was furious! Shame most tubers are just home-made commercial pushers now

[arthurcutting]

Good video but you missed making the biggest point of failure really clear even though you mentioned it. Most failures are burnt pins on the power plug because the pedestal receptacle is worn out from use. Cleaning up your cord prongs isn't going to help if at all. I use a sacrificial adapter if the park can't replace the receptacle and set my inverter to limit the current while making up the difference. Also I have a really cheap surge protector from Amazon that is about 25 dollars. The prongs are thicker, but if it melts it's cheap. Why the makers of surge protectors don't put high temperature alarms on the plug prongs baffles me. I've seen way too many people toss their surge protector because the plug melted, I guess that's why they sell so many. 😊

[ZeroFlame]

Get ready to experience GFCI breakers in campgrounds, they are revealing a lot about the shoddy electrical work in some campers that weren't even being picked up by these units. Should be a fun few years coming ahead with changes like that...

[boskone]

I believe the Hughes voltage booster also has surge protection, for what it's worth. It could be a feature on newer generations, I don't know.

I have one, haven't (fortunately) needed to test either function yet. It would be nice if it had Bluetooth and/or some kind of option for a display, then it might be more viable to just hard wire in.

[Robnord]

Another excellent video! Thank you. After years of just suffering with low voltage full timing in one park, we finally got an autoformer a few months ago. What a difference! Worth every penny. We bought a used 30A model for $150 that originally sold for $550. Deals are out there for those on a budget.

[nancyhart]

Thanks for the good video. I have a Progressive EMS Surge Protector external at the pedestal and it is doing its job. My question is about using a power strip with multiple plugs and maybe a few USB outlets with built-in surge protection plugged into an outlet inside this same fifth wheel. OKay, redundant or bad idea? I’ve been searching for an answer so hope you can shed some light. It’s time to buy an additional power strip for inside so the question is with surge protection or without surge protection under the above scenario. TY !