1 Climbing Rule to Never Break (& Other Tips)

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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview
00:40 Classic run & jump error
02:10 When your hip mobility ruins your heel hook
03:46 Hip mobility heel hook drill
06:02 Shoulder advice for avoiding injuries
08:55 Her heel hook is perfect (+compression tips)
12:11 Alternate beta
13:01 The MOST useful climbing app, ever
14:03 Proof shoulder external rotation strength is key?
15:27 When to use heels vs toe hooks
18:17 One climbing rule to never break (Janja's scorpion)
19:39 Drive your knee accross the wall, not into it
21:42 Slow climbing will kill your sends
24:22 Pay more attention to opposition
25:36 The Big Climber
32:30 Why you need blubbers and better pad placement
33:51 Trick for pad placement

📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 140

⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS

#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[bullydungeon]

The big climber portion was actually extremely helpful for me, for helping a friend. It's tough to couch someone when you don't know much already but especially when they're a hundred pounds heavier and you don't want them to get discouraged

[danedalton]

Thanks a bunch for critiquing my climbing! The jabs were what I needed LMAO. Was just watching your lateral knee video as this came out!

[jonasfilms]

these are the absolute best videos on the internet. I learn so much

These beta break-downs have been the best way for me to learn techniques.

Thanks you guys!

[levi.climbs]

Important to note at 20:00 is how close the heel is to the wall compared to the other person's. Having the heel farther out helps get over it.

[TheBigClimber]

Thanks so much for reviewing my climbing! Those tips were super helpful and I’ll definitely be working on them! I’ll keep putting in my videos so that I can get that awesome feedback! 😂

[runforrest]

that bullet time heel hook example was fantastic!

[felixbaker]

It's always a good day when your vids come out. Love em!

[jesenteh]

Thank you for featuring and critiquing my climb! It's a shame that the bloc has since been taken down so I cannot incorporate what was pointed out in the video. I did not end up sending that one but it was fun working on it.

[czech]

yas, please a video on scorpion kick would be amazing!

[Toopa]

Oh wow, I thought this was just another 4 year old video I'm binge watching, but apparently it was released 4 hours ago. Thanks for the videos and I really enjoy your (silly) humor 👍 (26:40 LOL)

[davesmith]

Ha, I've done that run and completely miss the foothold move 😆

[the_soap_opera]

nice ! the niagara glen made it onto hooper's beta !

[scotthooper]

So cool to see The Flesh Price in a video! That's my home crag and was my first v6 of the summer!

[kayaclimbing]

Boom! Great vid, as always y'all!! Keep on.

[bcyork]

@28:20 is something I've never consciously thought about or heard mentioned. It's a fantastic thing to bring to the front of the mind and maybe give some extra life into shoes and toes! Thanks

[davidsimpson]

love the comments on flagging and smearing for beginners, after angels of holds and working in Opposition is the first thing I Show people who I get climbing for the first time.

[lubo]

I've been waiting for another one of these:3

[robdb]

Love these video analysis videos !! Learning loads thank you

[chuffer]

Sad to not see Dan Beall and Anna at Ironworks for the Q&A on Friday, but so grateful for what these excellent breakdowns!