Go from Beginner to Modular Terrain PRO

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Fabio says hi and thank you :) check out his stuff, it's perfect for what we do!

Fun stuff to make crafting easier, my way of reinvesting my own money in saying thank you for supporting the channel. More to come!

Nice little printer. I like how the 'basic' printers are now much bigger buildplates, a lot of QOL improvements honestly :)

Anyway…

I get asked quite a lot of questions about how I achieve the results I do, and almost as often I see people making mistakes crafting terrain that are easily fixed!

So instead of continuing to answer the same questions over and over, I decided to condense the knowledge I take for granted (and use in almost every video), into a detailed, coherent guide full of tips and tricks to up your terrain game 😁

Now some of you will know some of this stuff, but I think there's something in there for almost everyone. I've been doing this full time now for about a year, and full time with a part time day job for quite a while before that!

I by no means know everything there is to know, but I do have a solid stack of techniques I've built up that just haven't found their way into videos. Usually because I couldn't find a way to fit them in without dragging the videos on for 40 odd minutes 😶

Hopefully these terrain tips are useful to you, and either offer something new, remind you of things you forgot…or at the very least serve as a relaxing background while you craft 😂

Everything I use should be linked on the equipment list above, so it's also a library of where to find stuff.

It also includes a 5% discount code and links for magnets in the UK, US and Italy (at time of publication -that list may grow…)

🔔 Subscribe and click the bell for more D&D terrain!
👍 If you found this helpful, help me out and like the video up there!

LINKS MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO:

BUILDS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO:

BUILDINGS

LANDSCAPE

SCATTER AND ACCESSORIES

OTHER USEFUL STUFF:

*the paint scheme is updated in the patreon description of the

Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
00:32 Get started without a hot wire
02:05 Make the proxxon cut accurately
04:47 BIG ANNOUNCEMENT
06:29 Cut perfect 90 degree tiles and cubes (and cut down larger bits)
08:59 'Getting started' lists and adding more countries to the equipment list!
10:04 Do I need a proxxon to get started?
10:45 Can I just buy a cheap one?
11:12 Do I need a new guide for the proxxon?
11:36 what magnets/glue gun should I buy?
12:16 can I use weaker magnets if they're bigger?
12:30 Free Magnet Discounts for all!
12:41 Rapid-fire, complete guide to glue.
15:52 Getting a better stone texture on foam
17:30 Getting better foam
19:23 Getting a better paintjob result - Priming and painting
21:02 Getting better drybrushing results
23:00 Getting better results from washes
24:13 Why painting for modularity is important
25:19 Best ways to attach magnets
27:39 Special secrets only time will tell...

Follow the channel to make sure you catch new videos as they're released:

#Rparchive #Archivemodularterrain
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Fabio says hi and thank you :) check out his stuff, it's perfect for what we do!


Nice little printer. I like how the 'basic' printers are now much bigger buildplates, a lot of QOL improvements honestly :)

DIMENSIONS FOR THE ALTAR:
Bevelled wide slab with border line cut 1/8" around the edge, and bevelled with a pencil
2 and 3/8" by 1 1/8"

Flat stone rectangular core 4 pieces 2" and 3/4" long, 3/4" high?
Overlayer thin vertical strips at front and back
Cut thin arch shape to fit in the middle
Cut x" brick with tip cut at 45 degree angle, hot glue to each side.

MASK SAFETY
A few things we work with require good ventilation, a mask, or both.

HOT WIRE CUTTER
When using a hot wire cutter, solid ventilation can be enough. Open windows, and a desk fan next to the cutter that blows towards the window is enough in most circumstances - but if you struggle with this, or can smell it consistently - I would recommend wearing a filter mask (links in the equipment list).

The white smoke given off by the cutter is primarily CO2 and water vapor, which are far less harmful than other common art products like aerosols and paint thinners (or hairspray). The toxic values are far less than wood-smoke, which contains tars, resins, creosote, and acetic acid.

IF you burn the xps foam, rather than melt it, it gives off black smoke. This is toxic. Make sure you turn the cutter off if not cutting, and try to remove foam stuck to the wire with some scrap foam, rather than letting it burn up.

CUTTING/SANDING FOAM
When cutting or sanding foam, you want to be wearing at least a dust mask (though a filter mask will do) to avoid breathing in the dust. Always make sure to hoover up this dust once you're done.

GROUT
Always wear a dust mask when using grout, ventilate the area, and hoover it up once it settles. It is basically cement, you don't want to be breathing it in!

On a side note, try to wash your hands in a bucket and throw the water out, rather than washing it down the sink. A small amount probably wont do anything, but in excess in theory it can cause problems (again, because it's basically cement!)

BALSA WOOD
When scratching grain into balsa wood with a wire brush, wear a dust mask to avoid the sawdust. Fairly standard wood stuff.

GLUES AND SOLVENTS
Many things we use regularly (even home use) give off nasty fumes of some description - superglue, polystyrene cement (plastic glue), liquid latex, among others. For the most part, we don't work with these things for an extended enough period for this to be a problem, though following safety labels on products is of course important :)

As a general rule, I throw anything that 'smells' into this category - some are mostly harmless, but I aim for better safe than sorry!

Basic ventilation (opening a window) will usually be fine if working with them for a short period, but IF you intend to spend hours using one of these materials I would recommend solid ventilation, adding a desk fan, or even using outside.

MAGNET SAFETY:

Don’t use around small children or animals, if ingested these can be dangerous. Never let very strong magnets slam together, especially thin ones. They can and will smash under a lot of force, and then become very sharp, highly magnetic shrapnel. Not good. Easy to avoid though, just take care.

NICKLE STRIPS/STEEL TIN CAN TIPS AND SAFETY:

Nickel and Tin is safe enough to use if you're reasonably careful, I used to cut most of mine from tin can lids with scissors, though now I use nice smooth nickel strips.

Made sure you're wearing thick gloves when cutting and handling, I use some woodworking gloves.

If you want to make doubly sure the metal isn't sharp, use a metal nail file along the edges to round it off.

RPArchiveOfficial
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this is insanely rich on information. i wish i had this when i started! small things that usually go unseen and we need to carve our way through. thank you so much, matt! keep it up :)

cmorellato
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Great overview! I do think the typical use of superglue (cyanoacrylate, or CA) is more dangerous than most people realize. Many people inadvertently subject themselves to repeated overexposure, causing headaches and other temporary neurological symptoms (dizziness, light headedness, “foggy brain”). Excess exposure can lead to a CA allergy, with more serious respiratory symptoms. I still use it, but I’ve become much more careful since some bad experiences and learning the real risks.

oldschoolfrp
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So good to see you making a recovery! I know you're not fully better yet, but still very happy to see new content and a general trend in the right direction :]
Thanks for all the tips Matt!

turnipslop
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I dont know what your situation is looking like, but i do want to say thank you. Your videos are so calming and sometimes you are so sweet it hurts. thank you, for making lovely videos and for making this hobby so much more accessible.

pandorabarnes
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Treasure trove of solid tips, I wish I had seen this vid last year when I just started crafting. A lot of what I know now is down to you and other YT crafters, thanks for all you do and hope you get better soon.

bradcraig
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I hope you make a full recovery! I really appreciate how much time and money you've saved me with the way you organize your collected wisdom. Very approachable. The example builds you show are also inspirational. What a rare combo!

austinmccollumgmail
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About the XPS-foam and how to get it cheap: I visited local hardware store which had rather large storage area. They actually have uneven sized XPS strips or blocks to secure the shipping of the "prime material". These uneven ones get dirty and battered, BUT that really does not matter, because we can just get rid of the damaged parts because they are huge. I had to cut one panel into two just to get it into my car.

And here's the catch: They gave it to me free. They can't sell it, they can't use it, it is just trash to them.

I still have tons of left and I made plenty of terrain already. I got 2 inch panel and 6 inch panel (rough estimates) so removing any dirty or battered parts is not a problem. The 2 inch panel was 80cm x 200 cm and the 6 inch was around the same, bit shorter I think.

So I strongly suggest asking to look around in the storage area, pick the bruised and battered ones, and ask what they ask for those. They might give it for free or for a hefty discount. Either way, money will be saved.

Also, everything this guys says, works well.

Edit: Should have watched the whole video first.. Well the larger panels I got for free are shown in the video at 7:08.

Edit2: "Prime material" = the real XPS panels that are meant to be sold. So the shipping box/package of XPS panels is secured by using single XPS panels. Those XPS panels become waste after they open the package, because they become dirty/dented during the shipping. They don't randomly put XPS on shipping random stuff - or possibly do, but that's not what I meant.

villesuutari
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I hope for a speedy recovery as well and also so glad to see a new video... I just got my Proxxon yesterday and I'm already working on some tiles. I have huge plans and thankfully I have a wife that doesn't mind entertaining the ideas of this old man. LoL

raymiller
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Glad your back in action. 👍🏽 This comprehensive update to your “state of the art” is very much welcome and appreciated.

lilcwa
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Glad you're feeling better and posting again!!!

MarkLewis...
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I've watched three of your videos and the ideas are already flying. I am very interested in this hobby, and hope to get into it soon!

mareklwhip
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Glad to see you're doing better pray you have a full recovery. We have missed you!!

sarahlongshore
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Thank Goddess Sheila I don't have a proxxon!
Btw, cutting straight at a 90° angle is just a matter of training. You'll get there eventually. And every time you try, you'll get a bit closer. Only took me 3 years, so... (Actually more like 3 months over 3 years).
So super glue is the way to go to make shallow puddles in tiles? 😁 Great tip.
Best of luck on your recovery 🙏💚

robot
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Hey, I've only just come across your videos but they have inspired me to get started on my own modular system for D&D terrain, I've just finished priming my first two test pieces that were freshly cut on my Proxxon earlier this week! Can't wait to see what you cover next, really loving the modular tiles, would love to see your method on the more detailed stone tiles vs the 3x3 inch tile ones. Loving the content, keep it up!

freudian
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Long time no talk Matt.
I've been a Sub for quite a long time now and due to life have had no opportunity to move into your patron category but it will happen I say lol. Anyway to the point, I feel that I should be paying for this information, it is that valuable. So thank you for giving freely to those who seek the knowledge. I know your generosity will bring you riches!
Please Stay Awesome.

Canibus
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This Channel is from a other world.... Wow really the best what i have ever See. Perfekt Work.

zockfreund
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Thanks for including the Netherlands!!! I am dutch myself, and you really helpt me out!!! (Sorry for my bad english.)

wimpiedreams
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Sorry to hear about your Long Covid. I hope you can get some relief soon...🤒

DingoPaints
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The algorithm suggested you yesterday, quite like your style. I'm sold on the modular style.. I'm thinking a 40k twist for rogue trader and dark crusade, as well as war gaming with. Thanks for the inspiration, I still have a lot of back catalog to watch.

bloodycestus