3 biomechanical techniques in rock climbing

In this video we're going to talk about how rock climbers use the biomechanics of the human body to their advantage. And if you're a rock climber yourself, then hopefully you're going to learn better rock climbing techniques or learn why you do things a certain way.

The 3 biomechanical techniques we'll explore are:
0:00 Intro
0:13 The Quadriga Effect
2:08 The Crimp Grip
3:32 Flagging and weight distribution

The Quadriga effect and crimp grips are techniques used to increase grip strength, and flagging and hip movements are fundamental techniques used to increase stability and endurance. The way each technique works, I found, was fascinating!

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This video is a part of a series about the biomechanics of climbing:

Lots of footage courtesy of Movement for Climbers and Hooper's Beta. Watch and subscribe to their channel!

Follow me on:

#rockclimbing #medicine #biomechanics

[movementforclimbers]

You know you've made it when a doctor (from Australia) deems your content good enough to explain biomechanics ;-) Glad you found the footage helpful, and I appreciate the acknowledgement.

[BlazeDragonfist]

As someone who's been climbing for 15 years, I absolutely love your explanation on how all of the muscles and tendons work together, and the examples/diagrams you provided. When climbing I can feel everything moving around, and know what's being used for what, but I've never seen something like this to see how everything's working together specifically for climbing. Keep up the great work!

[anuragandanujclimbing]

A full-on series is very much needed. I think many people would appreciate if you could pull in some numbers for forces different joints and tendons can withstand and how all 4 fingers and thumb compare to each other. Lookin forward to some epic vids.

[nielslund]

Physical Therapist here, rock climbing enthusiast, and youth climbing coach 5+ years.
Just want to say I was impressed with the information and presentation here.
I learned stuff too!

[timgee]

I've never subscribed to anyone after just one video, but this one was so well done. After climbing took over my life for 7 years, I've never had a pulley injury, but accumulated stress on my joints forced me to quit 4 years ago. It was devastating. I don't know if watching videos like this will ever allow me to climb again, but it would give me peace of mind to learn what caused my injury so i can warned others not to follow in my footsteps so they can continue to enjoy climbing. I would greatly appreciate a video on synovitis in the PIP joint for climbers!

[maryanc]

Gonna have to rewatch this, but I'm a climbing newbie and this had a lot of interesting information! Thanks for explaining with such helpful examples/visuals :)

[brittanybutterworth]

I’m new to climbing but have done sports for a while. I was really concerned about finger injuries right off the bat and didn’t know what a pulley injury is. This video helps so much! This gives me confidence to keep climbing slow so all of the muscles in my hands get stronger. Thank you!!

[artosvanstel]

Really excited to see more, this provedided some great insight into the reasons behind certain things you instinctively do

[crobbw]

Excellent video, I’d love to see a similar treatment on the shoulder.
Keep up the good work.

[johndoh]

YES YES YES A HUNDRED TIMES YES!!! I love biomechanics and I love rock climbing, but there’s not a lot of biomechanical discussion on the internet. PLEASE keep making these videos!

[danimae]

I'd Love to hear/lean more about the shearing force on the lumbricals please.

[Fogmeister]

As a climber I always knew it felt stronger to flex the fingers I wasn't using. But I never realised why until now. Interesting video! Thanks

[WWater-zonm]

You should acknowledge the other climbers and youtubers in your video

[loganl]

Cool video! Really enjoyed and subscribed, excited for more

[rowparkour]

Wow u only have 555 subs 0.o this is top quality content! Keep the good work, in no time u'll be famous!!

[TheMassa]

Thank you a lot that's super interesting, and help to prevent injuries.
Subscribed istantly ❤️

[DeusKite]

im new to climbing and this was the best climbing video ive seen so far.
thx! insta liked and subbed :D

[wilydingus]

Cool!! Great stuff thanks, the first try it yourself experiment was pretty fascinating

[john]

Thank you so much for this video. Watching this helps me understand why I cannot close or extend my hand properly after suffering a full open dislocation of a finger.

[derkeynot]

I just saw you on reddit. Really good video :D