IF ONLY I Knew This When I Started Climbing

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Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt

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[dontemchan]

I’ve always naturally/intuitively done this depending on the position of my body, arms, and legs! Cool to understand the logical side of it. Thanks for this!

[ClimbingADK]

I toasted all my pulleys this season, luckily they healed up, but its frustrating seeing progress and seeing it go away over a couple month span. Luckily I ditched the lattice program and opted for listening to my body and the injuries went away. Who woulda thunk?

[mikep]

You are a huge value to the climbing community brotha. Thank you.

[UnleashedTraining]

Half crimp was the most common grip I used in bouldering when I started and before I ever knew about climbing technique. I think it came from when I was younger and trying to climb up buildings via the windows.

[nbnd]

Really comprehensive and informational clip. Cheers

[obscurelines]

Id like to see more content on the natural direction of a hold. Most holds are optimised when pulled ina certain direction. I find as an older fella with less flexivility that in order to move my body around a hold (say place my foot near my hip) i have to pull the holdsideways as a lean my body, or outwards as I create space for my legs. Basically, by not moving my body efficiently, I am having to pull more in awkward positions and that is harder to do. Love to see an exploration of this.

[Tristyboo]

In beastmaking book by ned feehally, he actually distinguishes two additional grips, drag (that comes before open hand) and crimp (inbetween half crimp and full crimp - basically no thumb)

[oydeekoi]

My left ring finger A2 pulley has left the chat 😢

[paulgaras]

It’s hard to overstate how much getting as low and as directly under a hold as possible helps. Even though the open hand grip requires more strength, if you can get the body position right it can be really powerful

[tromboneking]

I have full crimped once in my life which was to send my first v7. I never let myself do it before then as I did not want to injure my A2.

[LokeSenpai]

I’ve been climbing for a year and a half and realized a few days ago that I needed to half crimp

[yannickfrogel]

On small holds i always use the full crimp If it helps. I never Had any issues with it

[amethyst]

My DIP joints have no hyper-extensibility, I literally can’t full crimp but ig it’s fine bc my half crimp feels strong asf

[winterapparel]

I’ve been climbing for over a year now and JUST started to watch videos about it. I’ve never put any thought into how I grab the hold, I just try my best to grab it! I have never gotten a hand injury from crimping. How common are pulley injuries?

[jib]

I love full crimp I’ve been doing it since I first start my fingers feel no pain anymore 🤣

[areteclimbing]

I've heard you say a couple of times that the drag puts increased strain on the flexor, but I don't understand your reasoning. Surely having a roughly one one inch lever after a bend at the DIP is less demanding of force than a two inch lever after a bend at the PIP. What am missing?

[isaacnoel]

I’ve always wondered about going onto finger tips and if that can lead to injuries or problems?

[KurtHokage]

Hmm I think I'm always doing full or half crimps bit not putting my thumb over index. I use thumb where possible to squeeze the hold somewhere

[maizalima]

My hands do not understand full crimping.

[arturobandini]

I have been bouldering (indoors) for 3 years and don't think I have once used, or had to use, a full crimp. I'm keen to avoid it, to be honest.