Should Climbers Weight Train? My Perspective as a Doctor of PT

// Timestamps //
Overview and Context (00:00)
Reason #1 AGAINST (01:09)
Reason #2 AGAINST (03:14)
Reason #3 AGAINST (04:42)
Reasons Against Summary (06:17)
Reason #1 FOR (06:37)
Reason #2 FOR (08:49)
Reason #3 FOR (10:48)
Reasons For Summary (12:04)
My Recommendations for Climbers (12:20)
Outro and Bloopers (13:36)

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Should climbers weight train? Will it make you better at climbing? Or will you just gain mass and feel all heavy? Will it make you more prone to overuse injuries? Or will the added strength help prevent you from getting injured? Shouldn’t you be spending your time climbing and not lifting weights? But then how are you going to get stronger?

Just like running, this is a hotly debated and often misunderstood topic in the climbing community. So in this video, we’re going to present the top 3 reasons FOR and AGAINST resistance training for climbers. And we’re going to base those reasons on WHAT? Science!

After this video you’ll have all the info you need to decide for yourself whether or not weight training is appropriate for you.

Be sure to stay tuned until the end as I’ll finish with my recommendation on IF you should weight train, HOW you should incorporate it into your routine (if you decide to), and some tips related to climbing and weight training.

Let’s start with the reasons against weight training as a rock climber
***FIND ALL THE NOTES FOR THIS VIDEO AT:

// Attributions //

#rockclimbing #physicaltherapist #weighttraining

Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
IG: @emile166

[HoopersBeta]

Got an injury or training-related topic you'd like us to cover? Comment and let us know!

[tyyao]

The better you look the better you climb! That’s the rules!!!

[simonaycock]

One of the most informative climbing related training videos I’ve come across. Definitely going to apply this knowledge to my routine. Sick vid bruv

[GHoen]

I think it's also important to note that weight training can be productive when a climber is overcoming finger injuries. For example, I'm currently pretty light when it comes to climbing as I get over a strained pulley. In the meantime, I've used the extra free time to focus on pulling power and antagonist training. Might as well do something productive with all that time off of the wall!

[wilsworld]

Thought I'd mention Emil gave you a shout-out in his latest video, congrats!

[jonkrause]

Great video and really liked the emphasis of 75/25 climb/train. Only recently got back into weightlifting (20 year break from bodybuilding) and morale-fun factor is so much better. I never liked climb training per se so this is more sustainable for me. A lot of weightlifting for me has been about peak contractions and extension of all joints-which I think has helped avoid my getting hurt -eventhough had many bad falls. Feel like my hand and finger strength is getter stronger bcoz of varying grip/weightlifting exercises.

[AvengingSyndrome]

Linked here from Emil’s channel. Great video. Personally I do 100% climbing and it’s actually because of point 2 for weight training. I find lifting weights extremely boring even if I have weights at home. But I love climbing so much I’ll just go do it if I’m feeling down and it makes me feel better. Even if I’m not climbing hard boulders I can do ones that make me feel like I have flow and have a great time. Based on this I think one thing you should make clear is that this is assuming your primary goal is to climb harder. My primary goal is to not be too fat and climbing is enough for me :)

[petereames]

I have always supplemented my climbing with strength, conditioning and mobility work. It takes up a lot of extra time but I have never gotten injured and my body feels amazing.

[daooga]

you deserve so many more views but I'm so happy I've stumbled across your channel, so much helpful information
been watching so many to help my body, thank you!

[dunavanjanzen-morris]

These vids keep getting better! Thanks for the insights and for the laughs!

[Hellyeathatrules]

So killer, dudes. Thanks for putting in all of the thorough effort!

[Tomcoma]

I feel like I digest more than average weight training and climbing info than the average person and this video had great facts and options about the topic. Well done! Very surprised by the low view count

[quentindmr]

Good job & funny as usual ! Thanks ! I recommand your channel to every climbers i know :)

[shadeOfTheNarrowPath]

Rad info, rad video. Thank you for the effort and time put into this

[joebeeton]

exactly what i've been looking for! thank you!

[boulderfighters]

Interesting video. I am considering incorporating more weight training into my weekly schedule. And this was a good source of information for that, thanks!

[sabbythecreator]

i was a power lifter before climbing, doing a lot of heaving benching, deadlifting, and squatting and you are 100% right the most dangerous part about weightlifting is doing it incorrectly and it’s difficult to do it correctly without the hours of experience.

[fabianodedo]

I've been looking for info about weight training and climbing for a long long time. Never found something good enough. Just did, thank you!

[damienleoskyangel]

Can't believe how much info obtained in this video. I'm sure it takes so much effort to make the video to cover as much angle and views as possible. Merci!

[stuarthys]

Great video. So many good points. Personally, I think weight training is much lower injury risk than climbing if you avoid absolute max effort. I never go more than 90% effort with weights, so it’s a good workout but staying safe, then save max effort for climbing, or running, which I also enjoy.