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How to Lubricate Your Bicycle Chain: The right way and the wrong way
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We'll show you how to oil a bike chain. First, you only need 2 types of chain lubricant: A dry lube such as Finish Line Dry Lubricant and a wet lube such as Finish Line Wet Lubricant depending on the weather conditions.
Lubricants' such as White Lightening can really gunk up your drivetrain and can be difficult to clean. Multipurpose lubes just pick up dirt and grime. Those that have heavy way like components just gum up the chain and are difficult to remove. At least this has been our experience.
I do a quick 2 minute drivetrain cleanup as noted in the upper right about every 150 miles. Then add the lubricant as follows:
When applying the chain lube:
1. Don't spay with an aerosol lube or drop on the chain where it runs over the cassette (as you turn the crank). Just gets all over your cassette, derailleur and can contaminate your brakes (especially disc brakes).
2. In fact, don't use a spay. Rather drop it on the rollers of the chain as shown as you spin the crank backward. When the chain is covered, stop adding the lube but still spin the crank backward to work the lubricant into the sides of the rollers.
3. The next morning before my ride I'll wipe the excess lubricant on the bicycle chain plates and rollers. By the way, wiping off the surface of the rollers does not affect the wear of the cassette. Rather, it's chain wear of the rollers and pins that create a greater distance between rollers that will wear the cassette. If you leave the lubricant on the surface of the rollers, it will just pick up grime and dirt. I do a quick drivetrain clean (clean chain rings, clean pulley wheels, cassette and clean chain) and lubricate about every 150 miles on my road bike. Those times I ride in wet and muddy conditions, I'll do a more thorough cleaning with degreaser or other chain cleaner, soap and water, rinse and dry. After using degreaser/wash/dry, you may need several coats of lubricant.
This should become part of your routine road bike or mountain bike maintenance.
Lubricants' such as White Lightening can really gunk up your drivetrain and can be difficult to clean. Multipurpose lubes just pick up dirt and grime. Those that have heavy way like components just gum up the chain and are difficult to remove. At least this has been our experience.
I do a quick 2 minute drivetrain cleanup as noted in the upper right about every 150 miles. Then add the lubricant as follows:
When applying the chain lube:
1. Don't spay with an aerosol lube or drop on the chain where it runs over the cassette (as you turn the crank). Just gets all over your cassette, derailleur and can contaminate your brakes (especially disc brakes).
2. In fact, don't use a spay. Rather drop it on the rollers of the chain as shown as you spin the crank backward. When the chain is covered, stop adding the lube but still spin the crank backward to work the lubricant into the sides of the rollers.
3. The next morning before my ride I'll wipe the excess lubricant on the bicycle chain plates and rollers. By the way, wiping off the surface of the rollers does not affect the wear of the cassette. Rather, it's chain wear of the rollers and pins that create a greater distance between rollers that will wear the cassette. If you leave the lubricant on the surface of the rollers, it will just pick up grime and dirt. I do a quick drivetrain clean (clean chain rings, clean pulley wheels, cassette and clean chain) and lubricate about every 150 miles on my road bike. Those times I ride in wet and muddy conditions, I'll do a more thorough cleaning with degreaser or other chain cleaner, soap and water, rinse and dry. After using degreaser/wash/dry, you may need several coats of lubricant.
This should become part of your routine road bike or mountain bike maintenance.
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