DOD Delete kit using texas speed pt1 afm suburban tahoe...

I install a DOD Delete kit using texas speed components below are more options. Basically gm AFM or DOD is a badly engineered system and sometimes needs to removed all together. There is a way to cheat the system I have video on this as well in fact this is one the cheat would not work on. Odds for that working seem to be good though.
I forgot to include removing the alternator bracket, if I have video of it I will include it in a following video.

NEW!! I now Offer Delete Kits

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Engine assembly grease I use

texas speed kit

Tools Used

fuel line disconnect

Tune out options

HP tuners Expensive Option

Range device Don't bother
If you do full delete don't bother with range device. Get proper tune done.

1/4in Impact

Parts

Valley Plate without DOD be sure to replace it.

Intake gasket make sure this fits your vehicle

If you need a pushrod

Favorite coffee

Crazed Performance Repair YouTube channel

tahoe lifter tick camshaft yukon

[PA]

I've been following your whole "DOD" system to stop. But you really do a masterful job. Your excellent educator. And your patient !

[steveemerson]

Thanks for your videos and detailed instruction on this problem. Thanks to you, I was able to use your tool to free up my lifter, modify the VLOM, and send off my PCM for reprograming just as you instructed, and I'm happy to report the truck is now working GREAT! I will say that when I first started the truck back up after putting the engine back together, there was a soft tick. I remember you saying that sometimes the lifters will fail again but I figured that if I just let the truck run for a bit, the oil pressure would build up and the lifter would free up...and it did. Purring like a cat now! If anyone thinks they can't do this, you're wrong. I'm not a mechanic, more of a handy man, but by following the instructions I was able to pull this off and save hundreds or thousands of dollars. Good luck!

[grominwithrob]

I'm looking at this kit currently. I have zero problems with the lifters. I used HP Tuners to disable the DOD in hopes of buying myself some time. I have always changed my oil every 3k miles with Pennzoil ultra synthetic religiously to keep all the internals spotless in hopes of avoiding a stuck lifter. I am planning to do the kit after this winter. I'll probably get a good daily street cam and exhaust when I do it. I can't wait. I really want to do a rebuild at the same time. If we are in there, we might as well replace and bulletproof everything we can. I'm so excited. It's going to drive me crazy waiting, but I have to. I have to rely on the truck the way it is till I have the time I need to get it done.

[hullinger]

Nice, man and I’m glad you’re showing the details of the DOD system. I’m debating whether I want to do the DOD delete myself in a Caprice that I have and your vid’s are swaying me to do the job myself. -Chris

[hsiriyob]

Love the siphon trick to get coolant out of the heads! Great tip!

[SaGeMitis]

I bought my 2015 Sierra and the day after getting it, it started running super rough and engine light started flashing. Used a obd2 reader and it was a misfire on cylinder 7. Thankfully it was under warranty and got it fixed but i am soon going to delete the DOD system

[hwafongdaddy]

Thanks man!! i watched most of your videos on the dod delete.... was scared doing it... i'd only worked on my own crap sbc 350's etc.... my 2011 yukon was not something i wanted to work on, but did it to save the money, and you definitely helped!! It is running perfectly after having a clicking afm lifter that got stuck. I used TSP components, and replaced the oil pump as well...

[donaldhollingsworth]

If you are going to replace certain push rods, rocker arms & lifters, you should replace all lifters, rocker arms, push rods just to be on the safe side.

[CorkBobberRustyHook]

Great videos. I am rebuilding my LH6 that I swapped with a LQ4 inside a saab 97x. I drove it with a collapsed lifter for over a year and was actually relieved when it spun a crank bearing. I hated the dod with a passion. It collapsed when I checked my oil and it was normal and then the same day it began tapping. Checked oil and was dry. Added a quart then drained it with only 2 quarts. The motor ran so well before it collapsed but I got comfortable with believing it would never happen. The engine is super clean but pistons for dod were caked in carbon. They sound like Subarus with an exaust.

[mikef]

pay 40k + for a truck and this is the crap they sell you wow

[Crustyswede]

Great videos. I particularly like how you show a clip from a previous video when you reference to it instead of having to run back and look at it trying to find what you are talking about. But it also prompts to actually go watch it after finishing current video.

[andydill]

Reverse thread drill bit and an ease out is much easier than welding to get that exhaust bolt out.

[ryanl]

ok, I had the almost the same thing. Took my valve cover off just now and one of the rockers for cylinder #4 was not moving but was not lose as in your video but it was not moving as the engine cranked. I was just about to remove the intake and cover to try the "push rod fix" but saw this video. i tried the Seafoam in the oil routine and it also did not work (after 1 day). I took Seafoam for carburetors and stuck the straw down the #4 push rod hole and sprayed as well as down the hole where the rod sits. Then I used an 3/8th extension 8" long and hammer to softly tap the rocker above the top of the push rod. At first it bounced like I was tapping in a spring. Then it went solid and I stopped. I tried other rocker arms above the push rod just to see what it felt like. They all felt solid! did I fix it? YES IT WORKED!! Cranked it over and the rocker rocked just like all the others! Now what caused it???...dirty buildup in the lifter or a bad VLOM? This engine has 170, 000 miles on it and it is a 2009 Tahoe with police package (probably a lot of idle time).

[scottwest]

This is the type of stuff I enjoy. Great Video.

[Tow.Man]

Dietec Grease on the tips of the spark plugs will prevent the wires from sticking to the plugs.

[steves]

what we do in our engine machine shop with aluminum heads, and this is only if there is material to do so, is to drill to the next size up, helicoil it and get a stronger bolt and a stronger steel insert. Don't use loctite on an exhaust manifold bolt, use anti-seize.

[boostednova]

been with you since the 1st vid... glad to see your channel growing

[dougedwards]

Not sure about the ls based engines but most engines have a antifreeze drain on the side of the block if you pull those out you end up with less than a cup of liquid left in the cooling system hence no antifreeze mess to contend with

[tony_tiller]

Great videos. I have a 07 6.0 vortec. Cylinder 7 misfiring. Pulled value cover and lifter is not working so I’m assuming collapsed lifter is the issue. Your videos have been AMAZING. Few questions. I’m debating on whether to just buy your tool, fix the lifter and possibly just tune out DOD without doing a full delete kit. So what would cause me to choose to do the full delete kit and not just release the lifter? What do I need to do to ensure the current VLOM is working correctly and won’t collapse lifters again if I don’t do the delete? If I keep current system and just tune out DOD, do I need to do the mods to the current VLOM you described in other videos? Right when the misfire occurred and I was driving it home, dash started buzzing stating engine had no oil pressure and to turn off engine immediately. I was 100 yards from the house so just got it home. That night, When the engine was cold it did not have any engine oil alarms like that tho. Is that something to point me to my VLOM is having issues and I should look at a delete kit? Will be pulling off the intake in a couple days to check for the loose VLOM bolts but the front two seem tight (can’t spin with just my hand or a socket and my hand). Thanks for all the videos and help.

[countryboy]

I’m currently doing the delete on my 5.3 only thing is my new lifters have oil guides on the sides not like front back the way the afm was when removed was I sent the wrong lifters ?