5 things I wish I knew when I started surfing

Learning to surf or improving your surfing can feel like an up-hill battle at times. But there are actually some really powerful strategies you can use to streamline your progression such as avoiding common mistakes, implementing additional training tools and changing your mindset.

Today I want to cover some of the things I wish I learned as a grommet and how, once I did learn them in my twenties, it actually helped me improve my surfing.

[perigrandone]

I started 4 months ago at age 63 after never doing anything ocean related. I go nearly every day and today I got a 3 second ride!

[exit]

Don't start, it will control your life in everything you do; family, work, relationships, travel, money, where you live...(pssst, it's all true but totally worth it 😄)

[jim]

I got some real benefits from surf skating when I couldn't be in the water. Some mock it but it really helped me a lot! As always thanks for the tips and insight. This 75 year old appreciates it!

[TruthIsNotSale]

I skateboarded all day every day since I was a kid then went to bodysurfing in big waves and learned the ocean rhythm when I started surfing I surfed six days a week five hours a day because I was determined not to be a kook I ended up living right on the beach on the sand at the best surf spot in Newport Beach and I surfed three times a day I do believe skateboarding helped my surfing I never became pro but as a female I probably could have as I was really getting recognized and offered sponsorship but I took a different route for money and I wasn’t really into competition surfing I don’t like competition anything really I don’t care if I surf better or worse than someone it’s not about that for me it’s always been about connecting to the 🌊

[rebeccab]

That tip about pushing yourself into going into waves a bit out of your comfort zone is very helpful. I've just started learning and being quite short and small I easily get freaked out - even in the white water where I can still stand! If I can just challenge myself to go out a bit further I'll be able to practice getting more green waves and increase my confidence at the same time...

[peterpage]

I agree with having more volume in your board, which made a big difference in my surfing progression.

[teamfit]

It's really inspiring to know that you were in your 20's when you really started surfing with any consistency. I started surfing at 21 and at 26 I only recently moved to a place where I can surf every day (as opposed to driving 2 hours each time I wanted to surf (melbourne).
Now I surf around 3-5 times a week and I really feel the difference in terms of confidence levels. It's good to know I'm not too old to hopefully become a decent surfer. Thanks for all your videos, also after watching your Twin Fin showdown I just ordered my first twinny, a JS Red Baron. Can't wait to try it out!

[vikbrickmann]

Thank you for that input Kale!

For me, especially tip Nr. 5 is very helpful as I am in the stage of a beginner/intermediate. It all comes to these two movements to improve at this stage now. I also started surfskating and it’s insane how you can easily work on your turns by land aswell. I’m hyped!

Greets 🤙

[peekukthefrog]

It's nice to hear that I'm not the only one that craps myself when a big 4ft set rolls in! Great video as always Kale 🤙

[kellyzak]

Completely agree with your points, especially the size of the board. As a former surf shop owner, it was frustrating to see so many people riding boards that are too small for them. A bigger board allows them to paddle faster, get in a wave earlier, stand up easier, and increase wave count which to me is the most important aspect to improve your surfing.

[MartaPiquerasBrunet]

Awesome video, as usual! Made the same mistake with board choice. Started out big and downsized progressively over the years till I got a fish, loved it and used it, as if it were my only board, on all types of waves for 4+ years --then stopped enjoying surfing because I felt stuck. Friends who suggested trying other boards. Right on point. Tried a couple of my friends' boards, one felt perfect, and I also got compliments on my surfing on that session (clearly the board allowed me to do what I was already ready to do but the fish didn't allow me to). Bought the same one, just a size smaller since I didn't need the volume. Game changer. Surfskating while I wasn't surfing really helped improve my backside bottom turn to (just last year, wish I'd know earlier!).

[jameshill]

Hey Kale. Well stated ideas.. I’m 66 and started skateboarding at 6, surfing in my twenties. Two points: Swimming/boogie boarding first in big waves really helps orient me on those big scary days. Second, since access to surfable waves is limited here in NYC, skateboarding is a key alternative to find stoke.
Thanks for the info flow. “Huck”

[ThePeyboy]

Such a helpful video. I'm from Texas and learned to surf in North carolina so naturally I haven't gotten to push myself as much as I would like but I love it so much. I'm moving to the Northern Beaches of Sydney next month and I'm so excited to improve my surfing by being able to go more frequently.

[jermainechristoffels]

Man you're so helpful every single evertime. I've basically had one weekend of surf training 2 years ago and watched many of your videos after and at this moment I surf so well all thanks to alot of your guidance and insight. From paddling to does and don'ts to just watching you surf. All the best in whatever you do 💯💯

[delannay.yohann]

Your video are very helpful as usual. I did a lot of surfskate when I was far from the ocean and practiced as much as I can during lockdowns until I moved closer to the ocean where I mostly only needed to improve my paddling using a bigger surfboard. Talking about surfboard I am very interested into your new shape you mentionned in the video. So hyped to discover your next jewelry 😁

[Mrcarlosfeyder]

great video, seen friends held back in their surfing because of tiny boards and the idea that you gotta go big even when you not ready. This was refreshingly honest and incredibly insightful. Love the vids.

[jmac]

Just started surfing this week in the philipines. Heading to Sri Lanka in 4 weeks. Live in Melbourne. Will be watching all your vids and hopefully be progressing very fast thanks for the insights!

[liamjohnson]

I'm 12 years old, and I love surfing. The only problem is that I can only surf in the summer. This is because I live in NY for fall, winter, and spring, but then I live in Cape Cod in the summer. It's my dream to go pro, but it's hard to improve if I can't surf year-round. That's why it's so great to know that surf-skate training helps, so I'm definitely going to be using my surf-skate more now. Thank you so much for this video Kale! Your a big support for me!

[chrisostomosprodromou]

Thanks for the great tips. Definitely need to look at my board volume and practice my turning.

[linusdnylund]

Thanks for sharing! Surfing in Sweden is ridiculously inconsistent so always helpful keep the stoke and progression out of the water 🙌