DIY fix/Repair Renogy Rover 40amp mppt Charge controller (not charging) save 200$

preview_player
Показать описание

Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

Drilling the PCB had me rolling on the floor, Stand offs are removeable.
That said my jaw dropped when you got it going! Good job.

JasonStPierre
Автор

Well I had a broken Renogy 40 AMP, googled the problem, found this video and went thru the repair and to no one's surprise, it works! Thanks for the video, I believe many others are going to have this problem as the circuit burn out occurs without popping the fuse.

morganplus
Автор

Glad you could repair it.
You didn't have to drill holes in that display board - and you might have been drilling through copper tracks on the underside of the circuit board! To remove the display board to get at the main board underneath, you just squeeze the tops of the little white nylon posts that hold the small board above the main board. Your seems to have two types of nylon post - three "squeeze to release" posts (look at the top of the posts, they have a centre and two sides, just squeeze the sides in to the centre with fine pliers, and lift the board up off the post) and one nylon screw, just use a screwdriver to undo the screw.
The solder repair - it would be better to carefully clean off the damaged track, then solder it with flux-cored solder, no need to use solder flux paste. (That's more for plumbing.)
Sometimes I repair a broken track by soldering a length of suitable wire across the break - just solder it to each side of the break. It depends if you had room for a wire inside the casing.
Still, well done for repairing it.

chrisharkin
Автор

What a crazy fix my man. Congrats; you clearly have DIY energy. Consider attaching nickel strip across that gap for higher current rating than a blob of solder. If it works, it works though. Good video.

MJ-irwu
Автор

Alex- Thanks for posting. I appreciate seeing the inside of these products. I know enough about electrical to be afraid of capacitors., so not enough

nmartin
Автор

I just worked on a RENOGY ROVER BOOST. It is a 10A controller with a 30A fuse. They use a little surface mount hall effect current sensor. Whatever the customer did, it blew the leads off the current sensor. The current sensor is still fine, it just doesn't have any leads. There are numerous design issues with this unit. Renogy puts cosmetics over design.

opera
Автор

My big question is... Did another faulty component cause the trace to burn?

chronobot
Автор

My Rover (40 amp, same model) used to charge my bank to 14.4, then they'd rest to 13.4, and super hot, last a long time. Now, two years later, the charger is now stopping at 13.0. It won't charger higher the batteries any higher. I have tried with multiple Ideas, please?

FathomlessJoy
Автор

Is anyone else wondering why its a 40a controller but it has 30a fuses? And 10awg cable which only handles 30a max

michaelstokes
Автор

My Rover is giving me the e1 error no matter what i do. Did you get the same error?

originalrnd
Автор

Good this happen because the controller Don have a cooling fans 60ampp mpp Don't have fans. I buy a usb computer fan put on top of the controller keep the temperature at 70 to 80 f. But if i don't put fan. The controller get fuckin hot 180 to 190 f

mikeperalta