Step-By-Step Installing Casing On An Interior Door

I just finished hanging this door at the warehouse.
Now let’s install the casing.
I start by making marks on the upper left and right side of the jamb a ¼” out for the reveal.
Then I measure and cut the first leg at a 45-degree angle.
I like to install the piece that goes against the hinges first.
I use my 18-gauge brad nailer to shoot 1¼” brads through the casing into the door jamb.
Then I switch to my 15-gauge trim gun to nail the casing to the wall.
The ¼” reveal keeps the casing away from the hinges.
Next, I cut a 45 on the left side of my header piece.
Instead of measuring the length of the header piece- I just make a mark on the right side where the reveal is.
I use glue on the joints for a strong bond.
Now I measure the leg on the right-side and cut it to length at a 45-degree angle.
Sometimes I have to play with this cut making it a 46 or a 44 til I get it to fit just right.
Because I had to pull the casing out at the top to make a tight joint, I slid a shim behind it before nailing it off.
This sometimes is needed when the wall is out of plumb.
The gap on the side will get caulked to the wall.
Let me know if you think I nailed it. @hausplans

#build #howto #carpentry #trim #trimwork #casing #interiordoor #construction #diy #contractor

[randempedestrian]

Nailed it, literally. A bunch of times, actually.

[mdemers]

As a painter, I should say you should always cut your trim corners at an angle slightly MORE than 45 degrees, that way they always come to a nice, sharp point, and any gap will be to the inside angle, which is much more easily hid and filled with caulk. But if you do it the opposite way, any gap will create a twin horn effect on what should be a single point, and even if you fill it with caulk, it will have a blunt look to it.

[archerpro]

Very thorough and concise. I love how you specify the tools. That helps those who want to learn your trade. That's the purpose of the video. I am a contractor and I approve this message.

[trotta]

I’ve been doing this for 32 years, your method is good, no need to swap guns and try under cutting one mitre by sticking your pencil under the architrave when cutting.

[Tool_Addicted_Carpenter]

I do almost everything the same down to the nail lengths but just a couple little tips. To start do both your legs first. That way you can cut your header slightly long and double check the 45s. Make your adjustments and cut to length. The issue with doing a leg last is that any adjustments you make to the angle will make it short and it will sit up off the finished floor. If the floors not finished then it doesnt matter which order you trim it in. Also, you can avoid using the shim on out of plumb walls by rolling your miters with a very small compound angle. I always say the difference between a good carpenter and a great one is 2-3 cuts. I know it's tough to change our methods once we're used to doing things a certain way but it's worth trying both of these things out. Not every project requires the extra love but you want to have the knowledge in the back pocket for the high end stuff at least. Love the vids sir.

[makemugen]

I do not like from 45 degree door frames because often they start to warp and bend from joint location, but that is because I live on location where Air moisture is very high. Your Job with The frame is Top knot!. 👍

[weshouck]

I like a 3/8 reveal to prevent hing and strike rub.
Also, with the brad gun always have the gun sideways vs vertical. If you’re going to have a shiner (nail curl out) it will be when the gun is vertical.

[JohnTHicks]

Good job, the glue is key.3/16 ths is a sexier reveal

[jw]

Most fail to offer a useful instructional video in this truncated format, but you managed to do it well. Nicely done sir.

[maldoom]

I used to temporary nail so i could make tiny adjustments to the legs to make the mitres come together. Btw you nailed it.

[Wade]

Just an observation that I've made over the last few years, if you hold your brad nailer perpendicular to the trim, there is a much lower chance of a brad shining out through the inside of the jamb because of the beveled end. Hope that helps someone.

[shanemcquitty]

I do that for a living I recommend starting with the top piece when nailing to get the miter on both ends perfect.

[artstrology]

That is the basic idea, efficient enough for me. I generally start with the top piece, and put a single nail into the door frame, then I fit the sides nailing the same single one in the center at the door frame. Then the corners, then the rest

[lordvader]

Wow, thanks for teaching me how to case a door! I have been a trim carpenter for a bout 2 years but we also do a little framing, decking and siding and when we do trim houses I am usually building the closets and running base so I haven’t gotten the chance to learn yet. Now I just gotta learn how to set a door.

[steverone]

I usually measure the top piece, hang that first and once it’s up, precut my miters on the legs, flip them over and mark them, I can trim a whole door with one measurement

[barrymarson]

You did more than nailed it. You screwed it up perfectly well. Nice job

[benische]

6" combination square makes marking margins easy

[ohandanotheronebitesthedus]

I framed a wall for myself i didnt even need shims for the frame but that shim behind the 45 cut to make it flush is an awesome tip for this diy'er

[thirdearthsurf]

Yep. That’s just right for paint grade casing. I’d hire you.

[rileyshane]

I definitely do both upright’s first then the header but what you did make a sense !