How to Install Window & Door Trim - Casing Made Simple

Learn how to install window and door trim and the tools and techniques you'll need.

[PabloEskimofo]

The finish nail as an extra hand to mark your miters is such a simple trick! Always learning something new, thank you

[thardyryll]

An easier way to mark the reveal is to make a guide out of hardwood (for durability) scrap. Take two pieces of 3/4-inch material about two inches square and assemble them -- very precisely -- with glue and a couple nails so they are offset 1/4 inch. The guide simply rests in the corners of the window jam extensions for marking the reveal. If your reveal is other than 1/4 inch it is easy to make several guides. Keep them with your shims and they will be easy to find. These guides are also handy for marking the reveal at several places along the casing, as long pieces of slender material such as MDF can sag and make the reveal inaccurate.

[invictus]

Try using syroflex as your adhesive (it’s white and application is similar) and cutting your miters with a 1 degree compound angle so you can really get nice tight joints. Also like to use 16 gauge nails for nailing into framing. I appreciate that tip about holding your nail gun, I never knew that!

[ttfweb]

I like the finish nail to support the piece - smart.

[BurtBowers]

I personally don't use nail gun & don't get nail crazy when installing any trim in the event I ever need to remove trim in the future & glueing trim? it's bad enough when I had to remove trim around bedroom doors plastered with nails thank goodness no glue was used it would have been even more of a nightmare.. Trim molding is not going anywhere by only using 4 fine nails to each side vertically & 3 nails max horizontally too many nails is overkill.. I also suggest pre drill all holes into wood approx 1/2" inwards from edge of trim with thinest drill bit so there is no splinnering cracking the wood trim, insert nails, line trim up to reveal line, start tapping nails in then center punch each one then fill with silicone, perfect install every time..

[dirkdaddy]

I haven't done a lot of trim work, so I definitely learned something, the using trim to mark directly your cuts instead of trying to measure makes a lot of sense as its more accurate and much faster, and the nail trick looks handy. You show marking and cutting the horizontal trim, but how to best cut vertical trim like on that doorway using trim, seems like we're back to using a tape measure.
My 2 cents I think some thin latex caulk would be better than wood glue and more removable if needed later on, while still giving adhesive bond. Also it wouldn't seep out of joints or run down the wall.

[hartsymk]

I used to hate cutting the moldings round a door >.> you've made it so easy with your lil corner off cut trick

[wolverinend]

Great job after 35 years of building homes as a GC. trim work was always my favorite. You did a great job and would hire you in a heartbeat.

[garyknight]

April Wilkerson recommend your channel and I can see why. Great video. Lots of great tips for amateurs like me without being patronising. Looking forward to watching more.

[louamato]

Great video. I especially like how you've clearly shown how to mark a measurement and then cut it on the saw. Thank you.

[totoro]

I like your idea of using a nail to hold up the molding at 6:50. Have you ever considered moving the nail a few inches (in this case) to the right to be on the vertical piece of framing so that when you apply the vertical trim, it hides the nail? That way you wouldn't have to fill the small nail hole in the horizontal piece of door framing. Not that anyone would really ever notice it anyways.

[bentcountershaft]

Another great video, thanks. Maybe in a future one you could show how to work around out of square jambs and the like.

[JoDoSta]

This video will have 1M views at some point. So many of the other window/door trim videos skip over so many of the small details covered in this one. Well done.

[davidjohnston]

Unless for a custom installation, all doors come in standard sizes. A 2'0" door = 24" inside of jamb to inside of jamb. A 2'4" door = 28" inside to inside, 2'6" 30" etc.. Side jambs from bottom to inside of top jamb measures 80". A properly installed door with tight joints this does not vary. I've been doing trim carpentry for years and I've watched carpenters repeatedly measure from door to door to fit trim. IT DOES NOT CHANGE!!!
For a 1/4" reveal add 5/16" for each miter cut. For example a 2'6" door measuring 30" inside to inside of jamb, for your top trim, add 5/8" from short point to short point of your two miters for a total of 30 5/8". Your side jambs are going to measure 80 5/16" from square end to short point of miter. This will give you an even 1/4" reveal all around the door. For a 2'8" door your top trim will measure 32 5/8" short to short, your side jambs 80 5/16" square end to short point. A 6'0" slider, 72" inside to inside, cut 72 5/8" for your short to short on top, 80 5/16" square to short for your sides.
The number of times I've watched experienced carpenters go from a 2'6" door and have to walk back and forth from miter box to door to mark the trim, then rinse and repeat on the next 2'6" door or the opposite side of the same door. Those measurements didn't change and yet they, measure and cut, measure and cut. So many wasted steps back and forth. As a lead carpenter having to account for man hours/man days on trimming a house those wasted trips add up to a lot of wasted man hours. This method does not in any way jeopardize your quality but will save you lots of time.
Windows often will differ in size but you can employ the same trick. Measure your window inside of jamb to inside of jamb all the way around. WRITE IT DOWN. Add 5/8" short point to short point of your miters for each piece of trim. Measure and cut all your trim at one time at the saw. It will fit perfectly with a 1/4" reveal all around your window. This will save all those steps back and forth, your trim will fit perfectly without all the nails for support, marking the miter and back to the saw to make the cut, then back to the window for install.
If you want or need to mark set backs for your reveals. Make a simple setback jig. Cut a 3" square of 1/4" plywood. Cut another piece 2 3/4" square. Glue one surface, align two sides of the smaller piece with the larger piece. This will leave a 1/4" step on two sides of the larger piece. Place this jig with the smaller piece inside of the corner of your jamb, the larger piece will be laying on the face of the jamb. Mark each side of the corner, there is your 1/4" setback on both sides. After trimming a few hundred doors and windows, hopefully you will train your eye to gauge a 1/4" reveal without having to mark every one.

[UT]

Thank you. I am trying to increase my usefulness for the company I work for. This is very helpful

[dixonshaun]

Great methods and great attention to detail. Only neg comment is to say all that glue against drywall is overkill.

[laurdessvalentino]

WOW Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. Perfect.

[johnwerner]

that is the best tip / trick I have ever seen thank you

[tdavey]

Hi Jon--your title says it all --you ALWAYS make it look simple and your work ALWAYS looks GREAT!!! You are def. a master carpenter or master craftsman--may i ask what size your back-band is?
thank you tim

[NutshellLiving]

Thank you for such a clear demo. I’m ready to do this.