The ONLY Batteries You Should Buy (Alkaline vs NiMH)

Alkaline batteries are obsolete - get these instead.

Alkalines (Don't buy these):

Linked ABOVE is a detailed list of lights in multiple categories. Below is the "short list", of a few top contenders. If you are shopping at Neals Gadgets, the coupon codes on the right specifically for that light, are typically the highest value. For all other purchases at NG use code: Lumencraft15 for 15% off your shopping cart.

Brightest Overall
(Large) BLF GT4 with Batteries/Charger

Everyday Carry

Brightest Medium Size

Best Throwers (Non Laser)
(Large) BLF GT 70

Best Throwers White LASER Flashlights (LEP)

Pop Can Lights
Fireflies R0T66

Best Tactical

Headlamp

Timestamps:
Intro - Don't Buy Alkalines: 00:00
Rechargeable, but there's more: 00:28
REASON 1 - MONEY: 00:48
REASON 2 - LEAKS:
Self-drain: 03:02
REASON 3 - CAPACITY ( CBA Test): 03:26
CAPACITY (Convoy Test): 04:26
LONGEVITY: 05:50
Killshot (Math): 06:45
Outro: 08:13

[ethan-lumencraft-]

A minor error, listed the lifespan of the Amazonbasics at 500 cycles - however those are the stats for the higher-capcity 2400mAh version. The 2000mAh version that I tested is rated for 1K cycles

[nayakacreativity]

The disadvantage of NiMH cell is the nominal voltage is 1.2V. Some device doesn't work properly on that voltage

[vsikifi]

I have some old Sanyo made Eneloops I have used for 20 years and they still produce more mAh in discharge test than what the those batteries promise as minimum capacity when new.

[combustionpropulsion]

Rechargeable Lithium batteries seem to be the best option for most applications. The Vapcell P1418A uses a buck driver to maintain 1.5 volts throughout its discharge and charges via USB-C.

[TinkeringOP]

I've lost several mag lights to battery leakage. So all my standby stuff is now NIMH or rechargeable lithium.

I do, however, keep alkaline and lithium cells as backup in case of a situation where i can't recharge for a period.

[wilburdesouza]

I use them in my camera flashes and get excellent performance, there are other videos online that prove the recycle time between flashes is faster with the Ikea Ladda 2450's then the overpriced Eneloop Pro's.

[sloanNYC]

I only have a pack of AA and AAA for emergency scenarios. Unfortunately 1.2 volt NiMH doesn’t replace everything. So I use Li-ion in those cases.

[michaelchomiczewski]

4 things I think are worth mentioning : 1. NiMH is only 1.2 V and some devices don't like it. 2. IKEA NiMH are rebranded Eneloops and Eneloops Pro. You may want to test them and compare discharge curves. It's mind blowing (because they are half price 😮). 3. When your device uses multiple cells - as most do - the worst cell in the series will determine the runtime. 4. In multi cell devices (3 or more in my experience) often one of the AAs gets discharged below safe discharge level and needs to be "revived, " which is inconvenient. Some smart chargers are clever enough to figure out this happened and revive the cell automatically. Others have an "activation" cycle that will that, but has it has to be initiated manually. A couple of "smart" chargers I have don't do and can't detect a cell was inserted when its voltage is too low. I have use a "dumb" (timer based?) charger to boost the "dead" cell for 5 min before I can put it one of the smart chargers and have it notice a cell was just inserted and start charging.

[Muonium]

I still think alkalines are significantly superior for EXTREMELY low power draw devices such as small nonmechanical (LCD based) digital quartz clocks, the newest AA containing smoke detectors, and very long duration "set and forget" environmental monitoring devices such as under sink wireless water leak monitors - which I calculate use a mere *few tens of MICROwatts* average power. For applications like these an alkaline will always last longer than an NiMH due to the latter's self-discharge rate, even if you get the best low self-discharge NiMHs. In some of these cases it even makes sense to use the expensive lithium iron disulfide throwaway Energizers - I have some in a radio atomic clock that's been going well over five years on the same pair now.

[SY_Vlog]

I only use regular batteries for remote and clock which last at least a year before dies.. And the other things goes for nimh rechargeable.. Such a huge price difference to be saved imo

[staple]

I've replaced long ago all AA and AAA battery powered devices that I have at home with the Japansese standard eneloops. Self-drain on eneloops are ridiculously low that you wouldn't even have to be concerned about it. I'm keeping a couple regular alkalines just in case though, but so far they are still in their original packaging.

[deltawing]

Though I hate it I still need alcalines for that 0.3 volt difference between alcalines and NiMH. A non-exhausting list: clocks on the walls, alarm clock, laser level, portable radio, vibrating massage tool, blood pressure meter, some cameras of my collection, Sennheiser microphone, transmitter and receiver, and I'm sure there are more. In my flashlights I only use Li-ion batteries except for some old AAA lights that take NiMH. 1.5V Li-ion batteries may be a great replacement in some cases if you really need that 1, 5V, but it cannot be used in radios and sound systems due to the electric noise voltage converter makes.

[BlenderRookie]

The last time I owned rechargeable AA batteries was back in the 1980s. I think I spent about $15 for 4 rechargeable NiCad batteries. They were only 400ma and while they were way better for high current applications such as toys, they sucked as batteries for TV remotes and low power devices because the internal power drain was typically more than the actual device drain.

I have thought about buying some modern AA rechargeables to power my bluetooth mouse but I was assuming the internal drain would still make it impractical. But apparently the Eneloop retain 70% even after sitting charged for 10 years. So yeah, I think I will buy me a 4pk with charger and essentially not worry about mouse batteries for the next decade or longer.

[antman]

The rayovac is rated at only 1350mah vs the amazon and eneloop which are 2000mah and 2100mah. Surprised that wasnt mentioned. So it wasnt necessarily "worse" (aside from the slightly lower voltage). It performed as expected according to what is listed on the battery. Which is good to see.

[DigitalMoonlight]

Most IKEA LADDAs are rebranded eneloops, there was a brief period where the brown label ones were made in china. A shorthand for finding rebadged eneloops is to look for Made in Japan as Panasonic’s factory is the only NiMH factory in Japan. 1900 and 2000 mAh are eneloop whites of varying generations rebranded and 2200 - 2450 are eneloop pros rebranded (of varying generations). LADDAs are under $2 CAD per cell

[noneya]

So can i use the Rechargeable batteries on my remotes? Like my tv remote for example and my childs toys, xbox controllers? Etc...

[douglascalhoun]

I run Eneloops in my Fenix TK41 to get max output, I tried it with regular Duracell's and the output was about 50 percent. They work good in my Sunwayman D40A as well. Come to think of it I only use Eneloops or Duraloops in all of my AA light regardless of cell capacity, they rock.

[wilsonj]

Pulled some Eneloops that had been last charged 8-10 years ago out from the back of a drawer and they still had most of their charge.

[c-ccoates]

I've used endloop for 20years. I get about 10years from a battery. I don't use them hard so I don't go over it's # of charge cycles. If I store them in a air tight container they last longer(13+years). I think they dry out. Still so much cheaper than disposable in the long run.

[jon]

NiMH has great capacity and decent discharge rate but 1.2 volt is a let down - some devices fail at that voltage