3D Printing with Nozzles - Ender 3 V2

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22 Pieces 3D Printer Nozzles MK8 Nozzle 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm with Storage Box for 3D Printer Makerbot Creality CR-10

Package include: totally 22 pcs MK8 nozzles in 7 sizes, 2 x 0.2mm, 2 x 0.3mm, 10 x 0.4mm, 2 x 0.5mm, 2 x 0.6mm, 2 x 0.8mm, 2 x 1.0mm
Parameter: input diameter 1.75mm; output diameter 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm; out thread: M6

Applicability and compatibility: fit for 3D Printer Makerbot Creality CR-10, MK8 Makerbot Reprap Prusa I3, compatible with all 1.75mm PLA ABS 3D printer
Premium material: the 3D printer nozzles are made of high quality brass material, sturdy and durable, connect with M6 out thread, easy to install

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Technically, you change the nozzle size in Cura by picking a material profile with the correct nozzle diameter. For example, pick Generic PLA 0.2mm and Cura will make all the changes necessary for printing with a .2mm nozzle.

Riverboat
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I think you need to change the nozzle size in the machine settings not just the line width and layer height

aesnen
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Line width is not nozzle size and CNC Kitchen made a video on it. Pretty interesting to check out. a 0.2 mm nozzle can print with a 0.4 mm line width that's a 200% line width, and he shows how useful it is especially for part strength to go over 100%, in the ballpark of 113~130% will give you more layer adhesion.

Zibouloubloub
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just an FYI never undo the nozzle while it's cold. I've had to deal with too many unhappy customers because of broken heat blocks or the nozzle just snapped off and try using a socket that fits the nozzle rather than those crappy wrenches that most printers come with they are super cheap and deform too easily and put torsion stress on the hotend. Otherwise, great vid keep up the good work

Gingy.Liftss
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I can see using the larger nozzels for things like vases or big blocky prints that don't need detail but can benefit from the faster print times due to the thicker layers. I'm gonna pick up some 0.6 nozzles for sure!

RyoHazuki
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yeah you have to change the nozzle size in the settings also it's not good with the ender to change the nozzle just like that you want to make sure that it butts up against the ptf-tube that goes through the hot end so you don't have any seepage also should be done while holding the heater block with a wrench and nozzle heated and when slicing when it turns orange it means that your numbers are not matching up for optimal printing. I didn't make it past the slicing of the first model before my head exploded lol

edgee
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I found .6 was the sweet spot for me as can keep printing at .2 like the .4 but prints much quicker

duke
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you should get the correct flow and temp for each nozzle, just do a cura temperature and flow test for each nozzle, get the settings right and you won’t have so much stringing

laisom
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You really should scale your speed with the larger nozzles. 0.8 Should be 25mm/s. It not only allows the plastic to heat up to a homogenous temperature, but it also allows more time for the fans to cool down to the core.

AZREDFERN
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You should change nozzle size in the slicer also and also play with the flow percentage to adjust for the different sizes. ).6 is a perfect balance between quality and speed when you want to print large models. Awful layer shifts and Z-banding on that V2; may need to adjust some things.

maiorciprian
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Just started using .6 and it's such a game changer. might try .8 some time
I'm just making prints for use, not beauty, so that might help

KnowArt
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Thanks for putting this all together, great information, I could see the 0.6 being useful for quick prototyping parts. 😁

onesadtech
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Great video, very valuable to see the comparisons.

jyarf
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2:04 - You were defiantly going to tighten that nozzle in before the jump cut to removing it....

Twitch-R
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At 7:34 I noticed you had some issues where your z-axis was changing height and I'm running into the same issues. What can be done to help eliminate that?

p.s. thanks in advance (hopefully) :)

brettpaulsen
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this video is flawed, sorry for the waste of plastic

AndreaFromTokyo
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Revisit this but keep your layer height at 0.15mm for all of them. Or skip the 0.2mm nozzle and print everything at 0.2mm layer height. I use 0.8mm nozzles at 1.0 - 0.3mm layers for most of my printing on all my printers for miniature scenery with a lot of detail. Only times I switch to smaller nozzles is for top layer details. Like stone pathways with cobble textures that are parallel to the xy plane. Opposed to a roof that is at a slant, 0.8mm can still get slanted roof texture very well and it speeds up the print times a little, not much, depends on the model. Thicking the infill layers to 0.4 is where a lot of time is saved.

However, the 0.8 has access to thicker layers so if I did want to draft out something very fast, I don't need to change the nozzle. Also, 0.8mm doesn't clog if you buy cheap questionable filament like I accidentally did.

DaniGirl
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You change the diameter settings in the top middle part of cura where you select your 0lastics not in advanced settings

alixelement
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Hey Dude,

at you old video : Tannoy 215 DMT Loudspeakers
The song at 11:15 . can you please tell me what it is ?

nitroboy
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Would this printer be a better choice for a beginner over the Ender 3 Pro?

Thanks for another very detailed and informative video.

paradcks
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