3D Printing Micro 0.2mm Nozzle Clear Filament 🤔

Music:
"Micro-aTAC" by Lupus Nocte

⚙The gear I use:

#3dprinting #satisfying #shorts

[electrifyingvids]

Use a clear plastic that is dissolvable in acetone. Use that filament to print and use the acetone vapors to polish the thing.

[Rainiiru]

The real problem here is the plastic ends up being a lenticular lense, if you tried to read the text horizontally instead of vertically it should be a lot more readable. In theory haha

[chrisdempsey]

I lightly spray my clear prints with IPA to get a better finish. Even if the plastic isn’t soluble in ipa, it cleans the surface well and removes residues that make it less clear

[Roobotics]

You are effectively making linear lenses with each layer, the outside walls are the elements. The better you can make the interface layers, and the smoother the outside is(both curvatures and surface finish), the clearer and more like glass it will seem

[Bear]

Try printing a Fresnel lens. Utilise the lines and refraction rather than fighting them.
If you can change layer thickness with each subsequent layer, you could actually create some interesting optical effects.

[Jargendas]

You should print in clear ABS and then treat it in an acetone vapor chamber. I achieved perfectly glossy surfaces with that in the past. Haven‘t tried it with transparent filament though.

[CATel_]

Try slightly melting their sides, so they're smoother

Cuz you definitely know right now it's more of a layer of cylinders on top of eachother

[dpp]

Maybe if you heat it to soften the texture, it can be even more translucent

[daliasprints]

Higher print temperatures should give more clarity, and reflect that the published recommended print temperatures are way too low for the hot new material to thoroughly remelt and bond to the surface of the layer below.

[mogalisiddarth]

Nicely done ✅

You got a subscriber..!!😊😊

[Donnerwamp]

When printing the solid thing, try printing only top layers with the same direction and 110% extrusion, together with reeeeaaaally slow speeds (like roughly 15mm/s) this can make surprisingly clear prints almost behave like injection molded parts.

[QuinnMaguire-xjyc]

You should use a resin pre-printer with clear resin

[Athiril]

To get it to work better the layer alignment has to be spot on when either clear coat it or use solvent smoothing

[claws]

There's a lot of good advice in these comments for improving your print clarity or for post-processing it, such as the people suggesting that you increase the extrusion width beyond the bore of the nozzle, but I don't see any that point out that there are still issues with how you have your system dialed in or with the filament itself. Zits/blobs could be "wet" filament or a processing problem (bad gcode, kinked wire, firmware interrupts/jitter). Layer gaps from underextrusion or poor adhesion (can be caused by too much or too little heat). Those are the two symptoms that jumped out to my vision. You or others may notice more on closer inspection.

[arealhumanname]

I mean, extruded layers of a clear material will approximate a stack of ellipsoidal lenses, you pretty much cant get rid of whimsical and unpredictable optical effects unless you have a printer that can extrude perfectly flat and square layers, unless you polish through the rounded layer edges

[Flare]

Definitely check the light diffusion of the two sizes with single and multi LEDs.

[hyphontx]

use polymaker polysmoth transparent pla and apply isopropyl alcohol, it should make it clearer

[ZenithWest]

You should put some sort gloss or transparent primer to fill in the layer lines... Should make it way more transparent/translucent

[blackout]

It is a fact that size is an important factor in many situations.

[DigitalJedi]

I actually regularly print with a 0.1mm nozzle. It's used on a very tight tolerance 5-axis printer I built to make print-in-place parts with little backlash and I also have used it to print mechanical parts that need to slide against each other. The plan is to eventually set up this machine with a tool changer to swap between 0.5 and 0.1mm so I can save time by only doing fine details at high resolution.